HYDRO Journal. 2nd grow dwcc. GG & GSC

[Toker1]

Yes, agreed. For next grow.

 

[George4green]

Started my first problem
​​​​​​ the GSC (#1 &most leafs) leafs where twisting looking yellow and brown spots on edges. You kinda see spots starting on the GG. PPM at 280ish water temp 70-73 room temp 72-75 RH is now about 50%. Wondering if this is an effect from the harsh three days of 85deg + temp and 15-20%RH

 

[Toker1]

It looks like nutrient burn almost. Yeah, could be from the high heat and low RH.

 

[George4green]

I I was kinda thinking a boron deficiency caused by the very low RH but I’m just guessing from the research I’ve done

 

[George4green]

I I was kinda thinking a boron deficiency caused by the very low RH but I’m just guessing from the research I’ve done

 

[George4green]

Just wouldn’t see getting a nute burn with a -300 ppm

 

[George4green]

Could be a potassium deficiency also from what I’ve read. From the higher stress

 

[Toker1]

Too much of one nutrient can cause burn. Even with low ppm.

 

[Toker1]

We can speculate about which element... but Ph issues more commonly cause deficiencies. Generally speaking.

 

[George4green]

I agree completely. But my ph has been steady at 5.7-6.0 since I transplant to system

 

[George4green]

I would personally like 5.8-6.2 flex from my research of nutes/ph up take but I guess you can’t get everything you want to work

 

[Toker1]

For DWC, on Sunday I either do a reservoir change or add ph down (switch off every other week). I adjust to 5.5 and let it swing back up to 6.5. It’s typically Wednesday by that time and then I PH down to 5.5 again. Repeat the process over again beginning on Sunday. I add more water when needed and use the Lucas formula to replace nutrients.
Getting the 5.5 through 6.5 is important for healthy plants because different elements absorb at different PH values. .

 

[Toker1]

Here is a PH vs element absorption chart. Anything under 6.0 makes calcium unabsorbable for the plant. This element is necessary for healthy plants. Try letting PH range from 5.5-6.5 Ike suggested above and you will most likely see improvements.

 

[George4green]

Ok this is what’s going on now. As you can see things are not getting any better. Not seeing much if any growth plus the browning edges and tips with some twisted leaf growth. Had the bad stress after transplant. The board pictures are numbers before and after tonight. Did a flush with flora kleen did all nutes at 50% besides cal mag. Did 5 scoops instead of the 6 of great White as stated on tub

 

[Toker1]

Yeah, cal-mag will only help if the PH is a bit higher than where you are at.

 

[George4green]

So far this grow and last I haven’t got much of a ph flex like it seems others do. Is it the RO water making it all stable or is it because I use food grade hydrogen peroxide to clean my system. I have no idea but I have noticed my ph stays dang near the same everyday until I change water

 

[Toker1]

Probably just the size of the plants. When they get bigger and start drinking more that may change.

 

[George4green]

ya was just kinda wondering because I always read on here about ppl ph going all over the place. Kinda made me feel good that I didn’t have that isssue

 

[Toker1]

Ph buffers help limit swing. I think when the roots get larger, their influences on PH in the reservoir will be greater.

 

[George4green]

10.5 days since plants where put in big system. They seem to being recovering from the isssues nicely. Did have an oops this morning when pulling up one of the pots hit the side on the hole and smashed a nice root. Didn’t brake completely but close to it. So I’m sure that’s going to stunt a little for a couple of days. Moved my lights to 36” last night from the 50” they seem to be liking it this morning.