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I think they are better

Giannhs

New member
Day 22 and its bren a week since i logically overwatered them. The one that was more damaged still look bad bud it pops new leaves slowly. Theothers have still stif leaves droping down and curled tips but are going better. NOW I noticed some brown spots on the leaves . Propably from oberwatering right.?
 

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Well this might be the problem. Iread somewhere that in fisrt days you dont need to ph water because the small amound wont affect the ph of soil much so i didnt ph it. Alsoi was using my dehumidifire water that had 7.0 ph .Three days ago i watered and phed my eater also i add some enhancer and it seemed they liked it . Iwil continue to ph water from now on and see
 
A few questions:
1) Are you growing organic or with synthetic nutrients?
2) Have you checked for bugs? (The middle two pictures show a couple of leaves that look like they may have pest issues)
3) How often/how much are you watering? (The symptoms of both under- and over-watering can look very similar ie. droopy leaves like in the last pic especially.)
4) What is your environment like? (Temp, humidity, ventilation, circulation, etc. Usually those things make a huge difference in the health of a plant, especially if you're not using synthetic nutrients.)

For your dehumidifier water, that's nice to be able to use water that doesn't have any chlorine in it. However, you also have to consider that there are no minerals or anything else in it. Also, dehumidifier tanks can get really gross with slimy mold or mildew. If you can, give it a thorough cleaning every couple of days to keep anything from contaminating your soil. If you can't clean it, consider using tap water and letting it sit for 24 hours or so which will allow most of the chlorine to evaporate.
 
I am growing organic with powerfeeding by greenhouse and wormhumus from biobizz.
No bugs
I am watering 700 ml every three days now but i think i overwatered it once cause i watered after 2 days.
Temps are at 24 during day and 17 during night
humidity from 50 to 70 % i added a small fan also
 
Giannhs The water from a dehumidifier is not readable (nothing in it to read), add a Tbl. of epsom salt (per gallon) to it then test it. It will also gain co2 and be acidic, the acid can be boiled off.
 
A note on tap water, not all use chlorine, many have switched to chloramine which does not gas off. Talk to the provider and ask them what they use.
 
Well its really difficult in my country but i will try . Ialso think in my region the water is not drinkable but i am not sure. Soi should stop using dehumidifier water and start using tap and let it sit for 24 h?
 
- If you're growing all organic then any pH-ing needs to be done organically as well. 'Normal' pH-up and -down will mess up the soil biome that you've worked so hard to nurture which in turn takes care of your plant, so keep that in mind. In a healthy organic grow using tap water in a normal pH range, you do not need to do anything to the pH of the water going in.
- Good that there are no bugs. Keep a very close eye on pests, especially with your cover crop you have since that can allow them to hide, reproduce, and then eat your leaves and roots.
- The watering regime seems to be off for this stage of growth. Usually, by Day 22, I would be watering 5-6 cups per plant in my 7 gallon fabric pots (for reference, 1 cup is about 240mL) every 3 days. You're currently at about half of that. How does your soil feel? Is it dry at the top or soggy? Do the pots feel light or heavy? A good rule of thumb is to take a handful of soil and squeeze it into a ball. If the ball falls apart when you let go, it's too dry. If it stays together but falls apart when you gently poke your finger in it, it's just right. If water leaks out like a sponge or it doesn't fall apart when you poke it, it's too wet.
- The focus on watering is because under and over-watering show similar symptoms. Also, the watering regime affects everything happening in the root zone including how healthy your soil biome is which affects how the roots can take in the nutrients in the soil.
- All this to say that if watering regimes aren't under control, it can be a nutrient uptake issue. In synthetic nutrient grows, this is often due to a pH issue at the root zone but in organic grows, it's more often due to an unhealthy soil biome (the soil biome being all the great fungi and bacteria you're taking care of which in turn take care of the plant).
- Speaking of soil, what kind are you using? I couldn't find it in any of your posts, so sorry if you mentioned it previously.

In summary (thanks for reading my thesis if you've gotten this far! :-p):
- It is likely a combination of a watering issue and a nutrient uptake issue.
- These two things are often intertwined and the input that you can control is the watering regime so I would put my focus there if everything else is dialed in.
- Nutrient uptake issues in synthetic grows are often due to pH issues, whereas nutrient uptake issues in organic grows are often due to an unhealthy soil biome since with most sources of water, a healthy biome will buffer the pH as needed. (If you do decide to pH your water, make sure to do it organically as well using lemon juice, vinegar, etc as synthetic pH up and down will kill the microbes in the soil.)

Hope some of this helped and that your plants get back on the road to being vibrant! They don't look too far gone, so keep the hope!
 
Well what you told me was really helpfull thenk

you. Mytap water has a ph 7.3 and as i remebmer when i let it sit for 24-48 ours the ph rised to 7.6.As for lime or vinegar i had used it before but with synthetic nutrients and i faced again ph problems and nutrient burn and someone told me to buy a ph down so i did. Also i am usong light mix from biobizz for soil
 
I've found the most effective organic pH down options are lemon juice (about 1/8 teaspoon per gallon) and vinegar (about 1 Tablespoon per gallon). I've used citric acid (food grade) but that's super strong. Generally these are more 'temporary' in that they'll lower the pH of the water but won't necessarily do too much to the overall pH of the soil. Usually in organic grows, you don't need to do much with pH since the mycorrhizae do an awesome job of buffering pH and in a super amazing crazy only-nature-could-think-of-this sort of way, it gets nutrients to the plant!
 
Ok AGH . This was one of the best growtalks . yestarday i water with lemon for ph buffer . Now what can i add to my soil to make it more living soil. Shouldi purchase mycorizhae ?. I added some in dry form around the seedling when i planted them.
 
Glad the information was helpful! You can add mycorrhizae if you want to give it a boost to make sure they're thriving but it's more important to manage the soil. Proper watering and amendments when appropriate. Often dry amendments that you top dress with have enough of the good stuff in there that adding extra things isn't necessary. Adding more won't hurt, but may be limited in their benefit.

For a good living soil article, check out: https://www.growweedeasy.com/organic-super-soil#make-super-soil
 
Pelleted sulfur is a natural PH down buffer, it will make sulfuric acid in the soil when it takes on water and O2.
 
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