What's new
By:
GrowWeedEasy.com
You're browsing as a guest. Sign up to join the conversation, share your grows, and get help from thousands of fellow growers — it's free and takes less than a minute.

SOIL Help with my plants new growth curling

G

Golden420

New member
Hi everyone,
im here to ask for advice to you all experienced growers.
i have a couple of plants that are presenting curling leafs on the new growth. All plants are growing outdoor in fabric pots ( sleeping inside at night) i used a compost mix soil from levington with JI.
I started training the plants they might be to young but i went for it and then I saw the problem yesterday.
reading forums is hard! To much info. Im between cold mornings or cold winds, to much Nitrogene. Some plants are okey and thisn2 not so good. Here the pic so you can see.
 

Attachments

  • photo106508.jpg
    photo106508.jpg
    87.1 KB · Views: 2
I forget to say that i have being given them biogrow 2 ml per gallon and it was fine last time i went for 4 ml per gallon and the problem came.
thanks for your help
 
Definitely not to much nitrogen.
too me it looks like overwatering or the stress coming from your LST training.
you have bit of some twisted growth also - could also indicate some overwatering or maybe some roots problems. How big are the fabrics pots ? Is this an auto ? Or a photo strain?
cold mornings can’t be it, as long the plant gets sunlight, good sunlight.
 
Thanks a a lot for your help. She is an auto flowering whitewidow
thenpot are 10 lt but they are not to the top
in case is stress from lst should i release her?
today i check for watering they where dry and i only water with water with runoff. ( i check the ph in the run of and is was okey between 6 and 7

if its lack of nitrogen should i increase the feeding?
 
Dont bother checking the rub off water. Just be sure the water you feed the plant with is 6,2-6,5. It’s a good thumb rule 👍🏻
my opinion I would release it, until it gets a little bigger.
and my opinion on the feeding with more N - wait a little bit, it could also be the lack of a good light it needs.
 
Thanks. Lot CaptainWiese91 i release her lets see how she does during the day. Something else i saw the 2 first leafs (cotyledon) are getting yellow.
today just water should i wait till next watering to feed again or could i do a lil feeding now that is still early here? I was giving biogrow 2 ml per gallon trying to be on the aafe side avoiding burns last water i went for 4 mls per galon .. maybe i over feed them or maybe they need more coz i was not giving them much before?

thanks for the chat anyway
 
What about your light ?or is it a outdoor plant?? Because it looks like it missing some light. More nutes won’t do it, if the light it’s not enough. Then you will over feed it. More intensive light- then the plant eat more nutrients.
Give it water now - and see how it goes. If it’s going more light green, then you can give it some nutes.
But be aware of over watering also. Right now I think it’s the lack of light.

It’s normal the cotyledon leaves get yellow at some time. It won’t be needing them anymore.
 
They are growing outside! A good day they get around 10 hours sunlight! But i live in the uk so we are not famous for our hot weather!! Hahah im hoping for the best to kickstart my indoors!

lets see how they react. I do believe i need a bit of nut coz i was being very shy with them. And all of them look a bit pale and lime green!
thanks a lot for your help!
 
Be careful with the nutes. You don’t have nutes in this kind of soil ?
The weather is like Denmark then 😆.
But 10 l pot is a good size for this small plant in this stage.
 
I never do, and I don’t see a problem with it, as long you water feeding has the right PH, My experience

Of course if he wants to do it, he can do it toker. Just my experience of course
 
Last edited:
Yeah here is the deal... ph buffer issues in the soil can effect PH and testing the run off is the only way to discover (with a numerical benchmark) that there is an actual problem.
Example: Once on my outdoor potted plant grow, pine needles had dropped into the soil. Pine needles can alter the root zone ph. You can water/feed at 6.2 all day and all night long. The root zone ph will never be 6.2 in this case.
Testing run off is important when it is a buffer issue like this (or similar). I only test run off when I see an issue that seems ph related, but you need to know root zone ph to fix this kind of problem. It’s not just about the ph going in, when issues such as this arise.
 
Fine example, can’t disagree with it.
But every time I had PH problems, I even flushed the whole pot, or watered with the desired PH level, maybe sometimes a little less than it should be. If I needed to put my PH level down.
So I was entirely talking about my experience about it.
And honestly it helped my plants
But I won’t disagree with you - I just don’t sometimes see it’s a totally necessary
Or maybe my cheap and easy soil has the perfect buffer zone every time. Dunno
 
Last edited:
Typically, you won’t need to... I agree a good flush should adjust back to optimal. If all is going well, you definitely won’t need it at all.
This brings up a question.. how did you decide it was a ph issue and not an abundance of 1 nutrient causing a lock out situation?
I really don’t know how to tell the difference with out measuring the run off and measuring the root zone ph.
 
If there is an abundance of 1 nutrient because of a lockout, it’s still a PH issue right ?? Because you wouldn’t have a lockout unless the PH is of range or you are building salt up. How would you know if it’s 1 particularly nutrient and not the other ? Can’t see your PH would tell you that from a run off water ? It will only show you something is wrong. But the leaves will tell you Also. Even there you can get more a diagnosis than the run off in my opinion - of course you can make a measure of the soil. But we talking about run off - And from from my experience (okay maybe depends on the type of soil you are using) if you keep the water feeding or the nute feeding at a steady range of the PH The soil will also be at the desired PH - unless you are using coco coir - that I now nothing about.
Or are you talking about PPM? Because that’s a totally different question.
 
Last edited:
No, I was saying if you have too much of a nutrient in soil and perfect ph you can still get lock out.
Measuring run off can tell you if it’s one or the other. Leaves look the same if it’s lock out from either or.
Soil ph meters are garbage. Run off is much more accurate.
Ph was not in the desired range when I had some pine needles fall into my soil. Even though my water/feed was. You could have flushed with perfect ph all day, still would not resolve that particular issue.
 
This I don’t agree with. But I like to have the thoughts and the discussion about it actually - it’s healthy.
If you water the the correct range of PH your soil will become this desired range. This is my experience
 
You are assuming there are no ph buffers In your soil, in that case I would agree. Although, you can’t not say with 100% confidence that the soil itself is not experiencing an issue like mine did (pine needles adjusting ph in soil). Testing the run off will give a more accurate depiction of root zone ph. Flushing with proper Ph will never fix a ph buffer issue in the soil. Your method will work 99% of the time, but is only a guess at best. Testing the run off removes all the guess work and bench marks the root zone ph for those other 1% of the time issues. Flushing is not a “solve all ph issues” method, unfortunately.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top