The plants I had problems with earlier have recovered and are growing strong now, only now my newest repotted plant is starting to show some deficiencies. Last I watered it I just used plain water. Seems to mee it a K problem and not N because the yellowing of the leaves goes from top to botten not the other way around.
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- Thread starter NebulaHaze
- Start date
Rootsruler
New member
I'll agree with Bluey except for RH and temp. I would run it a little lower at around 55% - 60%. Once new growth comes in healthy run your temps slightly higher at around 26c but 24c should be ok. 31c is too high. If you can reduce the PPFD/light intensity to around 350 that would also help until new growth comes in healthy then I would run it at around 26c - 28c.
If you really want to dial in your environment buy an infrared thermometer gun. They are cheap and will allow you to read leaf temps. You want to run your leaf temps at around 24c - 28c so whatever air temperature you need to be at to achieve those leaf temps.
N at this stage should be increasing so N in your Cal/Mag solution should be fine unless you are counting on the worm castings to provide the N you need. Nothing in your media is providing nutrition other than the worm castings so you need to treat it almost like an inert media, you providing all nutrients so paying attention to nutrient mix is important versus straight soil where more of the natural processes are there to provide nutrition and you don't have to be as diligent.
Check the tutorials on proper watering techniques. I like to use the light pot method. I can usually tell just from looking at them when they are on the brink of leaf wilt or due for watering through years of experience but, if you are new, light pot is the easiest way to know. Not sure of the coco ratio in your media but coco tends to not hold onto water very well so you also need to be diligent on watering practices.
If you really want to dial in your environment buy an infrared thermometer gun. They are cheap and will allow you to read leaf temps. You want to run your leaf temps at around 24c - 28c so whatever air temperature you need to be at to achieve those leaf temps.
N at this stage should be increasing so N in your Cal/Mag solution should be fine unless you are counting on the worm castings to provide the N you need. Nothing in your media is providing nutrition other than the worm castings so you need to treat it almost like an inert media, you providing all nutrients so paying attention to nutrient mix is important versus straight soil where more of the natural processes are there to provide nutrition and you don't have to be as diligent.
Check the tutorials on proper watering techniques. I like to use the light pot method. I can usually tell just from looking at them when they are on the brink of leaf wilt or due for watering through years of experience but, if you are new, light pot is the easiest way to know. Not sure of the coco ratio in your media but coco tends to not hold onto water very well so you also need to be diligent on watering practices.
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Rootsruler
New member
Humidity is too high. Try getting it down to around 55% - 60%.
Hello there! I need you help please! This is my first grow, so I don't know what I'm doing 
The problem is - Yellow spots appeared a few days ago and are getting bigger!
Setup:
The problem is - Yellow spots appeared a few days ago and are getting bigger!
Setup:
- Autos, germination started on 01 December.
- Coco coir + perlite
- RH is ~60%
- Temp is 24C / 75F on average
- Lights: 18/6, 60%
- Watering every other day with ~30% of recommended amount of nutrients: 0.5ml A+ 0.5ml B of Canna Coco + 0.5ml CalMag for 1L; pH=5.95.
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Rootsruler
New member
Agree. Media looks saturated. It's probably some water or nutrient solution that got splashed on the leaf.
Rootsruler
New member
Gaz21
New member
Please help
I'm suspecting this is nute burn. And maybe some light stress because the leaves are a little yellowish compared to the other 3 plants. (am I right?) But what confuses me is that I have four plants from the same mother. All getting fed from the same rez in autopots.. if its nute burn then how come it's only one plant???
4 super buff cherry-auto pot system- coco- mid 5th week of flowering. Temp 25.5 C / RH 48. PH 6.1 Ec 2.1 in the rez Daylight 600w pro.. I've backed off nutes and raised lights a little to 850 umols. Also what confuses me is that this plant is further from the light than the other 3 and they look brilliant. Please any opinion I will be thankful for.
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Bluey
Well-known member
It's really hard to tell from those pics.
Nute burn is a browning of the leaf tips, they often curl up and the brown spreads a little down the margins of the leaf.
Nute deficiency is a yellowing or lightening of the tips, which can also indicate light burn and is often combined with heat stress.
I think you may have had some light stress.
Those dark lines down the middle of the leaf, is that normal for those plants, if not, it could be copper or calcium deficiency BUT I can't see any other symptoms so I doubt it.
We need much better pics.
Nute burn is a browning of the leaf tips, they often curl up and the brown spreads a little down the margins of the leaf.
Nute deficiency is a yellowing or lightening of the tips, which can also indicate light burn and is often combined with heat stress.
I think you may have had some light stress.
Those dark lines down the middle of the leaf, is that normal for those plants, if not, it could be copper or calcium deficiency BUT I can't see any other symptoms so I doubt it.
We need much better pics.
Rootsruler
New member
Agreed! You say you backed off the light to 850 umol but 850 umol is pretty high so if you backed it off from there my guess is they got light stress.
Gaz21
New member
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Bluey
Well-known member
I'm not sure. You appear to have an N deficiency but hard to tell as the colour was all washed out in your pic.
An N deficiency can result from moving from veg to bloom nutes too soon after flipping. I wait for first preflower and then transition them over a couple of weeks.
You could be Potassium deficient also which is easy to mistake for nute burn so I'd take an approach for one thing at a time..lights raised done, now fix one or two of your nutes then suppliment if necessary.
An N deficiency can result from moving from veg to bloom nutes too soon after flipping. I wait for first preflower and then transition them over a couple of weeks.
You could be Potassium deficient also which is easy to mistake for nute burn so I'd take an approach for one thing at a time..lights raised done, now fix one or two of your nutes then suppliment if necessary.
Rootsruler
New member
Can you pluck one of the leaves from the plant and take a picture of it under natural light? That will help us in determining what is happening with your plant.
Gaz21
New member
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