Colombo how cool is that that you used to surf!! There are some coincidences here: I lived in So. Cal. in the 80s, close to Newport Beach, and what a trip it was to watch the surfers, to go walk on the beach during a rainstorm and be the only one on the beach (off season). And then the wave that guy is on in the picture, that's how I visualize the experience of getting tremendously high, you become one with the board AND the wave (the high), breathe into it and surf it all the way to the shore.