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Does overwatering problem of leaf edges curving upward happen in hydro?

Farmall

Farmall

New member
on the pages of the website that show “plant problems” there is a photo which I’ve reposted here that shows this issue. Since this is occurring on one of the hydro plants middle leaves, does this overwater problem happen in hydroponics where it is always in water? The photo here is of course in soil
 

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Normally, when I get upward curling leaves it's from heat stress. The other thing that I've had creat funky growth is when pH gets out of range.
 
yes that does not look like overwatering, but you can get the same problem and symptoms if your roots runs out of oxygen, just like when you water too often
 
I thought it might be.... I’ve had a problem with too much light on that bench . Thank you for those suggestions gbauto The roots are white, matted together and look normal. But I only know what I’ve read or watched.

This is my first time with soil and hydro. They are in the same room and same lighting schedule. I’ve watched video and have read that the top feed can be shut down after a few weeks....BUT, in experimenting with a large reservoir on the side of the 5 gallon pails, I am guessing that 15 minutes of run time every hour ( timer limitations ) changes the nutrient solution in each pail slightly and every week by about 60%. I refresh the reservoir completely so it might appear that freshness of the nutrient soulution is acceptable. These hydro seedlings seemed to have stretched a bunch within the first 2 weeks. To me, it seems like this characteristic has grown with each of them for the last 6 weeks. They look good from the top view but a side view reveals the larger node gaps.

Going to germinate ate a few next week but going with CFLs for a while. My soil grow was started outside and the early August sun did a fine job. Now in October, they are wide a squatty. Almost enough to convince me to use soil and save the expense of hydro but Nebula Haze and Sirius have an excellent article on hydro so I’m going to try it again once these are harvested

with the top feed explanation above...I would love seeing opinions on this..

Again, thank you all for the help.
 
Need to add that I have a monster air pump running 4” stones in each bucket and 2 inside the reservoir.
 
Overwatering happens in soil grows. It’s because the oxygen is getting choked out of the soil. Stagnant water also leads to pests and mold. Lack of oxygen allows bad bacteria to thrive and kills off the good bacteria.
This doesn’t happen in hydro with cool airaded water. The oxygen in the water allows the roots to thrive along with the good bacteria.
What are your temps and PH like?
 
I don't believe there's an overwatering issue with the size stones you're running but I'm not a hydro guy either. Any tips you need with soil I can help. Though I agree with the commenters above I have seen this happen with high ec. Ec should be your main concern along with water temps. You haven't said what your temp is and you should be monitoring your water temp and ec. From the limited info I've gathered these are my concerns to address the problem. As it could be a combination of both. Also how often are you adding fresh nutes? This can be a contributing factor as well. If you top of your res with fresh nutes at the same ec/ppm you are adding to what is already there thus making big ph drifts and ec climbs. You should dilute your solution before topping it off. My 2 ¢.
 
pH has been pretty steady at 5.9 with an occasional rise to 6.1 which is where I knock it down again to 5.8. Or 5.9 the well water we have starts at 110ppm and a pH of 7.4 and my temp in the room is about 75 average. Solution is just about the same temp. I also exhaust the 315 LEC bulb and hood with that black cloudline T6 exhaust fan with the amazing controller and temp probe. My original filter was with the gray metal 445 cuft unit that came with it but it is heavy, noisy and not suitable for the space I had to hang it...this thing is beautiful.

i did however have a 1250 ppm a few weeks ago and saw that it’s better at 800 so changed the solution and tonight it’s about 750.
fresh nutes only when I actually make a water change and that is about every 6-9 days. On occasional, I’ll just add some pH’ed water to make up some losses.
Having read GWE pages til 2:30 am ...like it is now :) and some major text books... I really try to keep things in the hydro buckets under control. Could it be be just a perfect trifecta of some dumb things from the beginning with the seedlings. With that big LED they were stretchy and lanky , maybe 4” with only the cotyledon leaves and I did support 3 of the six with small sticks. Then the first set of leaves came out

My soil seedlings were maybe 2” tall when the first set of leaves popped open and in outdoor sun, did very well and continued when I brought them inside. Maybe the screw up in the beginning just carries on thru their growth? I read in the Cervantes book some where that in some cases, that could happen and the recovery is poor. I reduced the light by raising it to the 52” mark, lowered to nutes to 750 and rotated the plants 180 degrees to change the lighting that beams down in the shadow. I’m at a loss other than that I have 4 soil and 6 hydro and if the 6 hydro fail, there are these outrageous soil girls doing their thing.

The folks on GWE have been so generous with help and I feel it is so so so much more than some of the stuff on YouTube ...toker1 and chefbjy.... thank you also. I’ll post a few more photos in about a week showing any changes
 
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Changing ec dramaticly can have a negetive effect on plants. Ppm/ec was high then you brought it down too fast. I would rather talk ec then ppm but think that's what caused your issue. You want to gradually change ec for healthy plants. You'll probably be okay from here on out but that's my take. Hope you get her healthy looking again and grow some big nugs ✌
 
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