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HELP! DIY VS TENT Indoor Grow
- Thread starter Supermoto182
- Start date
MJTECH
New member
That foam board is what I was referring to it also available in 3/4" so that would be what you would want to use on the exterior walls, it's fragile so you would want to drywall over it..
As for moving the outlets to a higher amp breaker you cannot do that safely, the maximum amps for 14 AWG is 15 and the maximum for 12 AWG is 20 amps.
If you try to push more current through the existing conductors, you will have a voltage drop and conductor overheating which is a fire hazard and that I snot the proper way to smoke what you are growing. ;-)
If you need more power just run in another circuit or two.
The way to calculate the power you need is to add up the input amperage of your appliances (lighting and ventilation), if that amperage exceeds 80% of the amperage of the breaker feeding those outlets you need more circuits.
And make sure the circuit those outlets are on isn't already powering something else for if it is then the amperage of the connected appliances needs to be included in your total amperage.
By the way without getting too personal could you diagram out your proposed floor plan and where is your existing breaker panel is as it relates to the proposed floor plan?
As for moving the outlets to a higher amp breaker you cannot do that safely, the maximum amps for 14 AWG is 15 and the maximum for 12 AWG is 20 amps.
If you try to push more current through the existing conductors, you will have a voltage drop and conductor overheating which is a fire hazard and that I snot the proper way to smoke what you are growing. ;-)
If you need more power just run in another circuit or two.
The way to calculate the power you need is to add up the input amperage of your appliances (lighting and ventilation), if that amperage exceeds 80% of the amperage of the breaker feeding those outlets you need more circuits.
And make sure the circuit those outlets are on isn't already powering something else for if it is then the amperage of the connected appliances needs to be included in your total amperage.
By the way without getting too personal could you diagram out your proposed floor plan and where is your existing breaker panel is as it relates to the proposed floor plan?
Toker1
New member
Agreed with above. The wire diameter is too thin to handle that much amperage. Just bring in another 15amp leg if you are short on amps. Those wires will get really hot in the other case!
And when I built my room, in addition to foam board insulation, I also used mold resistant drywall. Cost a little more, but worth the peace of mind.
And when I built my room, in addition to foam board insulation, I also used mold resistant drywall. Cost a little more, but worth the peace of mind.
Supermoto182
New member
MJTECH I was going to use the tent just as that a tent for my first indoor grow and still build 2 custome rooms as well for what the rant lacks in instead of buying 2 more tents. Also there is nothing running on the current circuit just need to trace it back to see what amp breaker it has. But the breaker panel is only about 15’ from the rooms I wanna build so it be no problem to just run new dedicated lines. I’ll draw up my floor plan and send it on over here in a bit I’m attending to the outdoor garden!! Thank You
Supermoto182
New member
RagWeedDWC
New member
I paint my walls with a semi gloss white, easy to keep clean and in my case easier to work with. For each chamber (or room) VEG/Flower I plan on at least one pump, light, two fans, aquarium heater for each tub along with a as needed circuit for a pump in the tub for cloning, a GFI circuit that services both for drain pumps etc. I ran one 20amp circuit on 10g (Matches rest of shop) per chamber so a total of two circuits. It may be over kill, but I never have to worry. First one I built I had no ideal how many outlets I would eventually need and had a closet full of multi outlet strips.
MJTECH
New member
Very good, while I prefer Square D, G.E. makes decent panels too and the breakers are not expensive.
Being 15 feet away would make it real simple to add more circuits, your best bet would probably be to run non-metallic cable commonly referred to as Romex , I prefer Electrical Metallic Tubing EMT aka. conduit as it is easy to add more conductors if ever needed, but if you are not well trained in bending it, don't go there it can be frustrating to work with.
Again remember 15 Amp = 14 gauge copper 2 conductors with ground, 20 Amp = 12 gauge copper 2conductors with ground.
12 gauge.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/romex-simp...MIwu6vkr-j4wIVikkNCh0g_QRpEAQYAyABEgI54PD_BwE
14 gauge
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...x-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-28827422/202316377
And always use the 6 foot rule for your outlets which is a code requirement, that is to say you will space your outlets so anything to be plugged in will not be more than 6 feet from the serving outlet, if you space your outlets 12 feet or fewer apart you meet that rule.
This rule was put into the NEC a few decades back as a result of residential fires caused by people using permanent extension cords to extend the reach to an outlet.
Extension cords, by code cannot be used for the permanent powering of anything.
MJ
Being 15 feet away would make it real simple to add more circuits, your best bet would probably be to run non-metallic cable commonly referred to as Romex , I prefer Electrical Metallic Tubing EMT aka. conduit as it is easy to add more conductors if ever needed, but if you are not well trained in bending it, don't go there it can be frustrating to work with.
Again remember 15 Amp = 14 gauge copper 2 conductors with ground, 20 Amp = 12 gauge copper 2conductors with ground.
12 gauge.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/romex-simp...MIwu6vkr-j4wIVikkNCh0g_QRpEAQYAyABEgI54PD_BwE
14 gauge
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...x-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-28827422/202316377
And always use the 6 foot rule for your outlets which is a code requirement, that is to say you will space your outlets so anything to be plugged in will not be more than 6 feet from the serving outlet, if you space your outlets 12 feet or fewer apart you meet that rule.
This rule was put into the NEC a few decades back as a result of residential fires caused by people using permanent extension cords to extend the reach to an outlet.
Extension cords, by code cannot be used for the permanent powering of anything.
MJ
MJTECH
New member
Semi gloss white works well and as you stated easy to clean which is important, things happen and walls will get crap on them.
Running 20 amps on number 10 reduces voltage drop which is good, it's less fun to terminate on the outlets, unless you use outlets that have clamps versus wrapping the wire around the screws.
GFCI is always a good idea, the breakers are more expensive, but if the greenhouse can be considered a wet location, they are required by code.
So far I have never built an indoor greenhouse for hydroponics, so I have been able to get by without GFCI's, that stated, if hydroponics where involved I am quite sure the electrical inspector would fail out my rough inspection if I did not use GFCI's.
Running 20 amps on number 10 reduces voltage drop which is good, it's less fun to terminate on the outlets, unless you use outlets that have clamps versus wrapping the wire around the screws.
GFCI is always a good idea, the breakers are more expensive, but if the greenhouse can be considered a wet location, they are required by code.
So far I have never built an indoor greenhouse for hydroponics, so I have been able to get by without GFCI's, that stated, if hydroponics where involved I am quite sure the electrical inspector would fail out my rough inspection if I did not use GFCI's.
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MJTECH
New member
By the way I normally don't get involved with the painting, if the customer wants the room painted I refer then to my wife who also does the drywall taping and mudding
Her method is to first prime the walls, primer is inexpensive and pays for itself when applying the finish coat.
Her SOP then is applying two coats of semi-gloss white with 3M glass microspheres/bubbles mixed into the paint, about a tablespoon per quart, this produces a surface that is not perfectly flat, which is a surface that provides better light distribution resulting in more bushing and a shorter plant height.
The microspheres are very inexpensive and a quart really go's a long way.
http://www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html
Her method is to first prime the walls, primer is inexpensive and pays for itself when applying the finish coat.
Her SOP then is applying two coats of semi-gloss white with 3M glass microspheres/bubbles mixed into the paint, about a tablespoon per quart, this produces a surface that is not perfectly flat, which is a surface that provides better light distribution resulting in more bushing and a shorter plant height.
The microspheres are very inexpensive and a quart really go's a long way.
http://www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html
Supermoto182
New member
Thanks guys I’m a Forman for a GC company so I got plenty of experience in building shit so for all this is nonissue at all. I drew up area and what I was thinking and seeing as there are 2 outlets per room probably on same circuit if I had to guess but could probably still use them for some things I’ll run 2 new 20amp circuits. My main 2 problems are first do my rooms need to be that big guess I could just build them like that and if I don’t use it I don’t use it but at least it won’t be to small when operations get bigger which I know will... secondly the worst I have a drop ceiling above where these rooms would be depending on how everything lays out I could maybe cut the grid and drywall the floor Joyces or this is where I need ideas cause I could just run foam board over the tiles run visqueen over that and poke little holes and run eyelits into floor Joyces for light hangers. I drew up what I’m thinking and if u could fill me in on maybe what size lights for each room I’d need and how many outlets you would recommend for each room to make it easy to expand later and also can I used the existing interior wall dunno if it’s insulated and it is wood panel but the exterior wall is insulated and 5/8 green board!! YaY
Here is my drawing of proposed grow rooms:
https://imgur.com/a/4I3M3Sp
Thanks So So Much for the input I think building the rooms will be much cheaper than tents!!
Here is my drawing of proposed grow rooms:
https://imgur.com/a/4I3M3Sp
Thanks So So Much for the input I think building the rooms will be much cheaper than tents!!
Toker1
New member
For electrical, you can still add additional legs safely with out building a room. And as long as the tent is not hugging the walls, you can plan for plenty of space for accessibility. I have no problems accessing my girls from 360 degrees. You just need the right kind of tent that has side access.
I built a 10’x10’ insulated grow room and run 3 separate tents inside plus a cloning lab. I have access to all corners and walls inside my tents and have room to spare for storage as well.
Just a side note, I run strips from each dedicated outlet anyway. I never overload them and the power surge protection keeps the equipment safe from hazard. I also have high temp shut off switches on each one. Plus I have those portable hanging fire extinguishers covering every square inch.
Safety is my #1 concern always.
I built a 10’x10’ insulated grow room and run 3 separate tents inside plus a cloning lab. I have access to all corners and walls inside my tents and have room to spare for storage as well.
Just a side note, I run strips from each dedicated outlet anyway. I never overload them and the power surge protection keeps the equipment safe from hazard. I also have high temp shut off switches on each one. Plus I have those portable hanging fire extinguishers covering every square inch.
Safety is my #1 concern always.
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Supermoto182
New member
Toker1 I’m being given a tent that’s 4x5 or 5x5 he’s not sure which size but one or the other. I basically want a flower room/tent a veg room/tent and a mother room/tent cause I’m gonna mother a a few different strains that’s I like cause with the tent comes a clone/seedling table if for some reason he don’t got the seedling table and what would u recommend DIY for a seedling setup so I can have my clones started and rdy to go in veg room/table as my veg plants go to flower.. just trying to get ideas for ridged hard DIY room vs Tents cause a room will last forever a tent will break and wear out over time and I’d have to assume the Mylar lining on the tent will break down over time as well. LMK what ya think cause I wanna start getting all this stuff together cause for now til I can get other rooms/seeds put together I’m just gonna clone my outdoor female for m my first indoor grow in my tent.
@MHTECH I never answered your question about my location I’m in Gettysburg PA which is south central PA so we have hot humid summers and dry cold winters not usually to much moisture in the air in winter and my basement at least the side I’m gonna grow in is insulated and has drywall and stays the same temperature year round it don’t heat up down there from the heater so it’s a constant 60-70 degrees year round also the floor has vinyl tiles on it so not direct concrete floors. Plz take all this into factor when doing your figures in the room and lmk if 6x6 or 5x5 would be better seeing there are 5x5 tents it maybe easier to find lights for that size room.
Thanks Y’all
Super420
@MHTECH I never answered your question about my location I’m in Gettysburg PA which is south central PA so we have hot humid summers and dry cold winters not usually to much moisture in the air in winter and my basement at least the side I’m gonna grow in is insulated and has drywall and stays the same temperature year round it don’t heat up down there from the heater so it’s a constant 60-70 degrees year round also the floor has vinyl tiles on it so not direct concrete floors. Plz take all this into factor when doing your figures in the room and lmk if 6x6 or 5x5 would be better seeing there are 5x5 tents it maybe easier to find lights for that size room.
Thanks Y’all
Super420
Toker1
New member
Nothing lasts forever. The frame of a room is made from wood while the frame from a tent is made from metal. In a wet or corrosive environment the metal will outlast the wood by far.
Personally, I like those 2 in 1 tents for mothers and clones. It’s a mother room and a separate section with levels for clone trays.
These are good for the first month or so if propagation, but they won’t be ready for flower unless you are running a sea of green.
https://thelashop.com/collections/g...rior-hydroponic-grow-tent?variant=45210100810
Personally, I like those 2 in 1 tents for mothers and clones. It’s a mother room and a separate section with levels for clone trays.
These are good for the first month or so if propagation, but they won’t be ready for flower unless you are running a sea of green.
https://thelashop.com/collections/g...rior-hydroponic-grow-tent?variant=45210100810
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Supermoto182
New member
Toker1 what you mean won’t be rdy for flower unless you do a SOG.. my plan is to have 3 areas I wanna have a clone/seedling room/tent/table to get them big enough to go into a veg room or tent. I want 3 rooms for grow and a area for a few mother so a split tent or something like that be great.. cause I want to have mother’s to clone plus new seeds I get to try different strains and go from there to a veg room to a flower room.. so when it’s all up and running properly I can have all stages insink so as flowering is done my veg plants go to flowering and my clones/seedlings are big enough to go into veg room.. and clones/seedlings rdy to move to veg room that’s the main goal and focus not sure if that’s what u mean SOG I always thought that was a training technique but if having all those stages steps working in order properly is that than yup that’s my plan. That way all rooms/tents always have stuff in them and rdy for next stage and I got a constant supply going... ya dig??
Toker1
New member
Yes, my suggestion in that case would be to have your flower room be some what equal in size to your veg room. Reason being, you will LST them to grow wide first...then let them grow vertically before the flip.
I’m my 3x3 veg tent, I would have to veg then a bit longer in my 4x4. So they were not ready for flower when they first moved over, they were a week or 2 away.
Now if you were growing SOG, growing them wide is not an option. So that changes the dynamics.
I’m my 3x3 veg tent, I would have to veg then a bit longer in my 4x4. So they were not ready for flower when they first moved over, they were a week or 2 away.
Now if you were growing SOG, growing them wide is not an option. So that changes the dynamics.