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demoralized here.....

Just a quick update. It's been a month since my last post. Got some nutes and upped my airflow and my girls are looking quite chunky. Trichomes are forming and should be good to go in a few weeks. My problem is with my photo. I have her segregated in a grow tent so she can be on her 12/12 schedule. She's in there with a SF1000 for light. The problem is that the tips of her leaves are browning. I tried LST her as best I can to keep her from the light. I also turned down the intensity of the light. Should I replace the light with the lamp grow light I got at Lowe's? I don't think it's nutrient burn cause the others are getting the same thing and they're thriving.
 

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Keep em going. Nice Buds.

I think you can improve a couple of things. Firstly you have a lack of decent light. Your growth suggests this.

Second the tips may be nute burn or a potassium deficiency indicated by the leaf tip chlorosis. It could be something else but can't diagnose it without knowing your medium, pH, what you're feeding it and EC.

They are budding up pretty well though so likely only a small change or two is warranted, nothing drastic.

It does not look like light burn to me so keep the light up to them.
 
everything is growing in 6:3:1 coco/perlite/vermiculite. Ph is 6.5. Been feeding all Advanced Nutrients Coco Sensi Grow, Bud Candy, Big Bud, and molasses. The photoperiod in the tent has a Spyder Farmer SF1000. It also was exhibiting cal mag deficiency, but I haven't administered it the last couple of feedings. The other girls outside the tent have a SF1000 and the shitty Lowes lights set to red for the flowering phase as supplementary light since I have them any way. Should I flush since they only have a couple weeks left anyway( the photo in the tent, that is)?
 
Don't flush

Drop your pH to 6.0 then back to 6.2 +/- 0.1

That should help.

How much nute?

Probably reduce it but I don't know.
 
Weedfreak do some research on the pH recommendations for your nutrients. 15 seconds on the googler and I found Advanced recommends 5.5-6.3.
Something I read, somewhere, at some point, says molasses doesn't do anything for boosting sugar in coco. Something about needing the little biothingisms in soil to break it down for benefit.
 
Everybody gets Coc Sensi Grow parts A+B 16mL/gal, Bud Candy 8mL/gal. I just stopped the Big Bud powder 2grams/gal.Thanks Gingerbeard.I was also giving the photo *mL/gal of CalMag supplement but stopped as the deficiency cleared up. I didn't know that about the molasses.Also Bluey, What is EC?
 
It a measurement of how much nute your giving it.

If your giving g it the manufacturers recommended amount best you reduce that. Half to ¾ is typically a happy amount. More and you'll get nute burn mostly
 
Grinding my teeth at you people and your 1/2-3/4 recommended. If I give less, I get less. Anyone ever seen me with nute burn at my more than manufacturer's rec every time I wet my plants? It is true that if you do not give enough nutrients, you will not get nutrient burn. But if you do not give enough, you will not get what you can get.
Work up to recommended. Grrr... Coco is not soil.
Back to the pictures of a number of posts ago. The photos will not open on my machine. But I can still see your flowers are about to die from lack of nutrients because that is what they are supposed to do because they are at that age.
It's fine looking dope Weedfreak . Spot on. If you are having nutrient issues, I am having nutrient issues. And I am not having nutrient issues.
Been checking your trichomes?
​
 
I grow in coco and do not get anywhere near the recommended amounts. If I did I'd get nute burn and more concerning nutrient lockout and the closer I get to the recommended amounts the more problems I have with the above.

At 80% of recommended in veg N toxicity starts to creep in in all the strains I've grown so far.

In flower its normally recommended to reduce EC last 2 to 3 weeks before harvest simply because the plant needs less.

That is my experience to date growing the way I do, but every grow is different of course and nutes are different too
 
UPDATE:
so I harvested my one photoperiod and the results are less than great. Turns out I missed the detail where I was supposed to get rid of the excess runoff post feed. Which probably explains the extensive nute burn the plant experienced. Once again, my ignorance betrayed me. It's a learning process I guess. My question is can I use the same growing medium or should I toss it in the garden? My other girls are in the flushing process and I'll be harvesting next week sometime. But I want to put my clones in a bigger basket. I was just waiting for space to open up in my grow room. Before anyone says anything, yes ,I know they're react adversely to transplanting, but I had good results with the gals that are getting harvested next week.
 
Wash or flush it till it runs clear and you get a zero EC reading. Keep pH close to 6 if you can and let it dry back a bit and flush it with a nute solution with calmag to suit the stage of growth for your transplant...so somewhere around 0.4 to 1.0 EC.

Remove the old roots as best you can. That's worked for me. Make sure the pot is full.
 
You can re use it. EC stands for electrical conductivity and is a measure of the amount of nutes in your feed inputs. You measure it similar to pH, typically with an EC meter. Have a read of the GWE tutorials about how to get it right.
 
You can use EC or PPM to measure the amount of ions in the water.

EC measures the ability of a solution to conduct an electrical current, indicating the concentration of dissolved ions. PPM measures the amount of nutrients in the feed solution.

They both do the same thing but use different ways of measuring it.​​
 
Update:
So I harvested, trimmed four of my girls and they are in jars. I bought some Boveda packets. My question now is: are they reliable? I ask this because I put one in a jar along with my hygrometer, which reads out 59%. To get the humidity level up, I exhale directly into the jar. This raises the humidity level a few percentage points above 62%, but then the level goes back down. What's going on here?
 
Good work on the harvest. The dry and cure is most important. There's a debate about the humidity packs. Some swear by 'em, and some swear about them. I don't use them anymore as I fall into the crowd that questions whether or not the packs affect the taste of the weed. To raise the moisture level in your jars, spritz water lightly on the underneath side of the jar lid and reseal tightly.

No, water won't drip into the jar or onto the weed. :D

That will easily raise the RH in the jar. I do that to maintain 62 in my jars. Your jar should hold that for a good while as well.
 
You do not need the Boveda packs. Dry slow and jar. Bring them down a bit in the cure if needed. Once you've done it a few times with your dry room setup you should be able to get it within +/- 2% without too much trouble. They will hold their moisture content in sealed jars for years.
 
I agree. Using Boveda packs is a crutch for not drying and curing properly. I've tried to use them before having overdried and I found spritzing the jar top more effective.
 
I haven't posted in a while and could use some advice. I have a clone that is in it's last 10 days of flower and it's showing signs of nute burn. I've already flushed it once. My question is how often should I flush before harvest. I've attache dsome pictures
 

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