Brown thumb grow

[Bluey]

Ok. Calibrate your ph60 following the instructions. Always rinse the probe between measurements and shake it dry.

Add your bloom nutes one at a time to the water mixing thoroughly between each one. Wait 10 minutes or so and take a reading. A drop in pH is normal for me when adding both bloom & veg nutes.

Then adjust your pH to be in the range of 6.5 to 6.8 for a soil grow. If you have been adding low pH solution to the soil in the past start this one high, say 6.8 then adjust to suit. Always measure inputs. Outputs are not accurate or repeatable (not scientific). I have measured outputs in a coco grow as low as in the 4's in a near perfect grow in coco and if I adjusted inputs I would have stuffed my grow so if you are going to measure outputs be careful.

Measure every feed and adjust each feed a little based on close observations of how your plants health is going. Always vary pH inputs through the recommended range.

 

[Brwnthmb]

@Bluey
When you say “always vary the ph inputs within the recommended range” (or something to that effect) do you mean just to always stay within the recommended range?, ie don’t go outside the range (of 6.5-6.8) to try and correct for a too high or a too low ph?
Edit (added); I remember seeing a chart on here somewhere that shows the relationship between ph and nutrients absorption (the ph range for nitrogen absorption, for example), but I can’t locate it now. Do you remember where that is?

 

[Bluey]

There's a few charts available so make sure you download the one for the medium you are using.

The pH of the soil won't change much, but you need to vary it in hydro to allow for a balanced take up of nutes so I'd say it's good practice to vary it in its recommended range. You shouldn't need to go outside that range unless your soil is out of range but assume it's good. Just watch your leaves very closely, from the bottom to the newest top ones for changes in color and shape. Taking photos can help with that.

Do you have enough light?

Take some close up of where the buds will start forming looking closely for the formation of pistols.

When do you plan on adding nutes to your water?

 

[Brwnthmb]

@Bluey
I’ve been adding bloom nutrients to those in bloom phase and veg nutrients to those in worn out soil, judging from yellowing leaves and too much time since repotting. So, to answer your question, I already am adding nutrients. Today was the first day that I got the ph correct before pouring in the bloom nutrient mix. I expect healthier leaves now.
My tap water is over 7, so if nothing else it needs some ph down. I do have a recurring problem of dark green leaves, and the soil is only a month old. I’ve noticed that the plants which get the dark green leaves get light bags quickly (they are thirsty). That seems to me to be a healthy sign.

 

[Brwnthmb]

These two plants are at different stages of readiness, and the more mature one has many more trichomes. (The first picture is obviously the more mature bud.) Do buds acquire more trichomes as they mature or do the trichomes themselves only turn from clear to milky?
Here’s the second, labeled #1

 

[Bluey]

Read the GWE tutorial on when to harvest

 

[Brwnthmb]

I have rewritten the question.

 

[Bluey]

The answer to that is complex as many factors play into trichome number and development including strain, stress, himidity temps etc.

The sativas I have typically grown don't smell until very late flower, sometimes only a day or two prior to harvest, they don't frost up much either. Then others I have grown are so covered in trichomes you can't see much but them and stink like nothing else months before harvest.

Try and get your humidity as low as possible last 2 weeks before harvest and down to 40% the month before that, without pushing temps up. That will give you the best results for canabinoid levels and bud density but it strain dependant as to results also. Don't stress them.

Will more trichomes grow late in flower. Maybe, maybe not. I'm not sure it matters much at that stage.

The density of trichomes and frost or strain is not always indicative of strength or type of effects either.

 

[Bluey]

The answer to that is complex as many factors play into trichome number and development including strain, stress, humidity, temps etc.

The sativas I have typically grown don't smell until very late flower, sometimes only a day or two prior to harvest, they don't frost up much either. Then others I have grown are so covered in trichomes you can't see much but them and stink like nothing else months before harvest.

Number of trichomes and frostiness, as much as we all love that, is not indicative of strength or effects.

Try and get your humidity as low as possible last 2 weeks before harvest and down to 40% the month before that, without pushing temps up. That will give you the best results for canabinoid levels and bud density but it strain dependant as to results also. Don't stress them.

Will more trichomes grow late in flower. Maybe, maybe not. I'm not sure it matters much at that stage.

The density of trichomes and frost or strain, as in indica or sativa, is not always indicative of strength or type of effects either.

 

[Brwnthmb]

That’s interesting.
The two plants shown are both OG Kush. The main difference is that the first spent it’s vegetative stage outside. A minor difference could be that the first plant is much smaller, and it is in an 8” clay pot. The other is in a 3 gallon fabric. [and of course the reason for the question. The first bud (with the most trichomes) has been maturing for about twice as long.]

 

[Bluey]

What I've noticed is stress can bring on trichomes early and stop or retard bud development. There comes a time in the flowers growth that buds slow and stop producing trichomes. When that is exactly probably varies a bit to a lot depending on lots of factors. Trichomes on Lower sugar leaves can start ambering up very early in flower. What it all means I don't know but I know when my buds are ready to go.

 

[Bluey]

Did you know there are 3 different types of trichomes on cannabis flowers? We really have little idea what 2 of them do or their function. We guess one of them is to deter pests. I'm just happy I have some good smoke.

 

[Brwnthmb]

The plant on the left was last watered 4 days ago, the one on the right 18 days ago. The bags are equal weight. What are the things which make a plant more thirsty than another?

The plant on the left shows other ways it is healthier, such as rapid growth and consuming the soil faster. In fact I topped the plant twice so that it would not get too tall for its living space. The plant on the left is kush cake, the right is OG kush.
The plant on the right is just a representative of the others. The abnormality is the rapid growth of the plant on the left. I’ve been aerating the soil (of the slower growing plants) as best I can thinking that was it but my results are inconclusive. Are there any ideas? Have any of you had a real fast grower and did you find out why it was so?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Brwnthmb]

when the soil level has dropped like in the photo, is it necessarily time for repotting?
Should you add soil to the top as the level drops, or do you use the level as an indicator for time to replace the soil?
thanks

 

[Bluey]

How on earth do you transplant out of a fabric pot without stressing the plant?

Reason I ask is I don't use fabric

Keep your roots covered

 

[Brwnthmb]

@Bluey
It is very easy to transplant out of fabric pot. You roll the top to the outside and peel it down. I set it on a clay pot turned upside down and the fabric pot just turns inside out. (It leaves all the soil intact. There’s no stress.)
Edit (added): I water the plant the day before and have so far always run a tool around the outside before trying to peel the fabric pot down.

 

[Brwnthmb]

I’m calling this ready.
?
another bud same plant
edit; this is my first try at identifying a white trichome. These can look clear to cloudy under a jeweler’s loupe, but white in a picture. I don’t know how “white” trichomes get. I see some trichomes on plants that are less mature with some amber trichomes, and these pistils are mostly all brown and curled. My only hesitation is not knowing how white trichomes get.
When trichomes have changed from clear to white, are they completely opaque? Or are they still a little clear, and you can see through one if you look at it up close?

 

[Gingerbeard]

And don't let anyone try to convince you otherwise! Congratulations!! You made it!!!
Bag it, tag it. Sell it to the butcher in the store... as it were...
We can talk about the errant non-cannabis hairs later.

 

[Brwnthmb]

Thank you!!!
Since I wasn’t sure, I cut off one branch with a couple of buds that were the furthest along and hung it up. I planned to compare these with those still on the plant, in case I didn’t get an ok.
Buds that are lower down are a little less mature (of course). Do you normally just call it close enough and hang up the whole plant? (I always did before but I hadn’t heard of a trichome either.)

 

[Gingerbeard]

Don't look to us for the go-ahead. 10 people will give you 11 opinions. Any opinion is as good as another.
A staged harvest is when you harvest buds/stems you think are ready and leave buds you think have some time, yet. Cutting and hanging the whole plant at once is also fine. Remember what you can about this harvest and what colors you see.
​Now comes a whole other kind of waiting. Your next question will be about how long it takes to dry. Consider a week before checking. Completely opposite to growing, do not aim fans at drying buds. You just want to circulate and keep the air changing. If you want to speed up the process, don't unless you want to ruin your weed or buy a big-ol' bud drying machine. Y'aint yet got enough dope for a big-ol' bud drying machine.
If you post a picture asking if your dope looks dry enough, I'll poke you in the eye.