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Brown thumb grow
- Thread starter Brwnthmb
- Start date
Going from the advice provided, I’d say it’s too early, that is there are less than 80% of the pistils have turned brown. On the other hand, a lot of the leaves are pale so I am afraid that most photosynthesis is over.
I included the closeup hoping to learn about trichomes (and browning pistils) also.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
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Bluey I was thinking that the plant is
early, based on pistils and trichomes, but the leaves are losing color (more than the picture shows).
dirtymike that is the bathroom window where I moved the plant to take the picture. The plant lives in a closet with a grow light.
In my (previous) outdoor grows I never detailed the flower’s maturity, so this is all new. I do have various eye loupes for inspecting trichomes, but I’m wondering if just judging the % of pistils browning might be the best way. Thoughts?
Edit: the advice on harvesting is pretty clear, whether pistils or trichomes. I was just wondering if anyone has a preference.
early, based on pistils and trichomes, but the leaves are losing color (more than the picture shows).
dirtymike that is the bathroom window where I moved the plant to take the picture. The plant lives in a closet with a grow light.
In my (previous) outdoor grows I never detailed the flower’s maturity, so this is all new. I do have various eye loupes for inspecting trichomes, but I’m wondering if just judging the % of pistils browning might be the best way. Thoughts?
Edit: the advice on harvesting is pretty clear, whether pistils or trichomes. I was just wondering if anyone has a preference.
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Bluey
Well-known member
When to harvest is a personal choice.
It also depends on the overall health of the plant, bud health, flower development, trichome maturity, the weather, strain, your schedule to dry and burp jars, on and on.
Your buds are a long way off. Do you have any flower nutes you can give them?
It also depends on the overall health of the plant, bud health, flower development, trichome maturity, the weather, strain, your schedule to dry and burp jars, on and on.
Your buds are a long way off. Do you have any flower nutes you can give them?
Until I hear back, I’m punching holes in the root ball for aeration. Advice is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
edit: ph=5.43; 5.38; I measured the ph of the water that poured out of the bottom after 3000ml of tap water was poured through the soil, mostly at the stem.
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Bluey- I messed up then, but I didn’t know another way to measure ph (other than pouring enough water through the bag to get a sample) but it did require 3 liters.
Do you think the low ph is causing (or helping cause) the yellowing?
I didn’t measure the input water ph, but in times past it has been around 7.
Do you think the low ph is causing (or helping cause) the yellowing?
I didn’t measure the input water ph, but in times past it has been around 7.
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Gingerbeard
New member
Another fine article by Miss Nebula.
The Cannabis Autumn Color Effect (Get Colorful Leaves!) | Grow Weed Easy​
The Cannabis Autumn Color Effect (Get Colorful Leaves!) | Grow Weed Easy​
Using an Apera ph60-
I checked the ph of my tap water and the same sample of water with bloom nutrients added using an apera ph60. The ph of the 750ml tap water was 7.38,
After adding 1/2ml of bloom nutrients the ph was 5.48. This is nearly a 2 point drop in ph at a ratio of 1/2tsp/gallon, and it is contrary to what others have suggested.
Gingerbeard Did you try to measure the ph change yourself when adding Bloom nutrients to tap water?
Edit: and; should I adjust the input water (with nutrients) to be at the target ph (6.5 or so) or should I measure the output and make the input higher or lower l
I checked the ph of my tap water and the same sample of water with bloom nutrients added using an apera ph60. The ph of the 750ml tap water was 7.38,
After adding 1/2ml of bloom nutrients the ph was 5.48. This is nearly a 2 point drop in ph at a ratio of 1/2tsp/gallon, and it is contrary to what others have suggested.
Gingerbeard Did you try to measure the ph change yourself when adding Bloom nutrients to tap water?
Edit: and; should I adjust the input water (with nutrients) to be at the target ph (6.5 or so) or should I measure the output and make the input higher or lower l
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Gingerbeard
New member
Brwnthmb about your post 43.4. That is a good question and the answer is no, I have not checked pH in that order.
Someone might remember this moment a few years ago when someone corrected me when I was pH'ing water before adding nutes. I was not having issues but it made sense that the nutrient solution is what got pH'd because the nutrients could make a difference.
This is just my opinion but based on a little experience.
Your contrary results may be because of the water you use. Unless you are using the same water as the information you are reading, count on differences. Notice people say to adjust pH. They do not tell you how much pH up or down to use at a time. I know a drop of pH down in a gallon of water from the vending machine is almost too much so when I used VM water, I always pH'd 5 gallons at a time. Tap water takes many teaspoons.
In the end, the important number is what you finally pour onto your soil. If bloom nutes are dropping your pH to an acceptable level, go with it. If you begin to see an issue, you know where you might look for a solution.
Google a little about your nutrients. You may find they do, in fact, adjust pH.
Someone might remember this moment a few years ago when someone corrected me when I was pH'ing water before adding nutes. I was not having issues but it made sense that the nutrient solution is what got pH'd because the nutrients could make a difference.
This is just my opinion but based on a little experience.
Your contrary results may be because of the water you use. Unless you are using the same water as the information you are reading, count on differences. Notice people say to adjust pH. They do not tell you how much pH up or down to use at a time. I know a drop of pH down in a gallon of water from the vending machine is almost too much so when I used VM water, I always pH'd 5 gallons at a time. Tap water takes many teaspoons.
In the end, the important number is what you finally pour onto your soil. If bloom nutes are dropping your pH to an acceptable level, go with it. If you begin to see an issue, you know where you might look for a solution.
Google a little about your nutrients. You may find they do, in fact, adjust pH.
I did, just now, correct the ph in my pitcher of tap water. Again it initially measured 7.38. 1/2ml of bloom nutrients dropped the ph to 5.76. I found that 0.1 ml of ph up brought the 750ml solution up to 6.5.
One challenge I had was measuring 0.1ml. I need a smaller syringe.
In case someone is interested I also found that I could fine tune the ph by adding water (if I had overshot the mark). For example I dropped the ph 0.3 by adding 250ml of water.
Edit: for reference 1ml/750ml=1tsp/1gallon. I find that it is much easier to work with metric units and besides my tools are graduated that way.
One challenge I had was measuring 0.1ml. I need a smaller syringe.
In case someone is interested I also found that I could fine tune the ph by adding water (if I had overshot the mark). For example I dropped the ph 0.3 by adding 250ml of water.
Edit: for reference 1ml/750ml=1tsp/1gallon. I find that it is much easier to work with metric units and besides my tools are graduated that way.
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