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Brown thumb grow

Brwnthmb

New member
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the plant at the left front is the topic of my question. Its leaves are lime green to yellowish. It’s ph is 6.1. The other plants have ph of 7.2, 7.3, 7.0, 7.0 (from upper left going clockwise. The 6.1 plant then is the last reading going clockwise.)
I couldn’t find where a low ph would cause the lime/ yellow leaves. I’m betting on watering.
I think that this one just hasn’t recovered yet from overwatering. I don’t think the light color is a new problem, it just hasn’t recovered yet. The question I have is should I add ph adjuster or nitrogen (or another nutrient) or give it some time?

Thanks
p.s. I do have the plant on a much better watering schedule now. It’s been 3 days since I watered it, and the soil is still moist around the plant.
 
Looks like things are going better. I would stick with the new watering schedule but I would try to get that PH up. 6.1 is low for soil and can lead to deficiencies. Deficiencies can lead to yellow leaves.
Considering the start they had I wouldn’t go crazy, just give ‘em some time and focus on correct ph and watering appropriately
 
PH in soil while vegging should held at 6.2-6.5 in flower 6.5-6.8. I would start with correcting the PH.
Is it the same soil in all pots? IF so then why the wide range in PH?
 
Smallgrow
From what I could gather from the hamburger menu, the ideal ph range should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic. My (proposed) method of adjusting ph is to use the bottled products ph up and ph down, which I don’t have yet but when I do have them, my plan is to maintain my same watering schedule while adding ph adjusters to the water. Is this what you recommend?
 
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It is the same soil in all the pots. I do not know why the wide range of ph.
There were at least 3 pots where I buried the peat cups into the soil, and I would assume that the peat cups would lower the ph at least for a little while. However, I am almost certain that this particular pot was not one of them.
The pot where you are diagnosing wind damage is a good guess. It is actually transplant damage. (Plant #2, clockwise from the upper left.) I lost limbs and leaves while trying to get the root ball out of the pot.
 
Maybe add some pelleted dolomite (PH up buffer) to the lime green one, not a lot, top dress then water.
For PH down buffer I use pelleted sulfur, my pots are larger than yours. The sulfur mixes with O2 and water over time creates sulfuric acid (a common PH down)
 
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PH in soil while vegging should held at 6.2-6.5 in flower 6.5-6.8. I would start with correcting the PH.
Is it the same soil in all pots? IF so then why the wide range in PH?

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1492.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.65 MB ID:	632482 I can’t get the picture in the right place, but this is the answer to your question ‘how are you measuring the ph?’ Or something to that effect.
Rwise
 
Looking like a nice recovery Brwnthmb!
Notice the differences between the plastic and clay pots versus the bags? Keep it up. You have some time and work ahead of you.
As the plants get bigger, you can use LST to keep everything at the same height, rather than the multi-tiered method that is likely to get knocked over when a big, stoned, dumbass like me knocks into it.
I'm going to make a suggestion for down the road: Don't top. Get your plants back to healthy and fill up that space. If your grow space is even four times what you are showing in your picture, that will be a very tight fit for five plants without topping. Unless you have upgraded in the last little bit, you do not have enough light to take care of much more than the table you are growing on.
What I first said, though. Looking like a nice recovery.
 
1-LST? (What is it?)
2- I definitely have some space challenges. My plan was to end up with 3gallon fabric pots that equate to 2ft tall plants. This grow is under one sf1000 light, 2ft square flowering. So I may need another light, or remove some plants, or stagger my flowering and keep some plants in vegetation state, or both.
I have another grow with 6 plants under 2 sf1000 lights. I always planned to discard the weaker ones, and just kept starting seedlings experimenting until I got it right. So I have quite an array of plants.
One grow is representative of the other, so it hasn’t been necessary to show grow 2, but I think I will anyway. I’m proud of how it is coming along.
And thanks for the compliment. I have another set of 3 gallon fabric bags on order, and I hope to get them repotted up. However my first attempt was terrible. I need help there.
 
Grow 2
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plant 2 (plant 1 is the upper left hand corner, numbered going clockwise) has been topped. It’s the tallest plant, and is in a 10” clay pot. The other 2 clay pots, plant 4 and 5, are 8”.
 
The flower pot size and type is experimental. The 3 gallon fabric pot is my upper limit. The brown plastic 8” pot is a pot down from a larger size, to see if the plant would grow faster in a smaller pot, and to see if the faster growth offsets the damage from transplanting.
 
That pH meter is useless for growing cannabis. They are very inaccurate.

Use a pH pen like an Apera PH60 and measure the pH of your input water. If you are using rainwater you will need to add a tiny amount of salts in the form of nutes or suppliments to get an accurate reading.

That is how to best manage the pH in your medium.

Bigger pots required for big buds.
 
That pH meter is useless for growing cannabis. They are very inaccurate .

is it the inaccuracy that makes it useless for growing cannabis?
the meter seems to be fairly repeatable, for what it’s worth. The plant with a low ph continued to have a low ph when I tested it the following week. It was 6.5 last week, 6.1 this week.
 
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