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Aurora Indica by Nirvana, 100% organic grow with BioBizz nutes
- Thread starter Cocho
- Start date
Cocho
New member
Hey guys!
Today I did some defoliation and removed some of the leaves that were covering bud sites, and some of the leaves that were growing in clusters to improve air flow.
As I was doing this I noticed something I don't like too much.
Some of the leaves had brown/orange spots on them. I checked for bugs, but found non. And there were not a lot of spots, just a few here and there (not in a pattern).
Here's a few pictures. What do you think it could be? Some kind of deficiency/over feeding on a specific substance?
And here on a smaller leaf (kind of hard to see, but there's two small spots towards the tip of the leaf).
Hopefully this is just a minor "hick-up" and nothing to worry about. But I've seen enough grow logs go to shits because the lack of taking stuff like this serious.
Not the best start of the day, but I'm a Viking. I will endure.
Peace!
Today I did some defoliation and removed some of the leaves that were covering bud sites, and some of the leaves that were growing in clusters to improve air flow.
As I was doing this I noticed something I don't like too much.
Some of the leaves had brown/orange spots on them. I checked for bugs, but found non. And there were not a lot of spots, just a few here and there (not in a pattern).
Here's a few pictures. What do you think it could be? Some kind of deficiency/over feeding on a specific substance?
And here on a smaller leaf (kind of hard to see, but there's two small spots towards the tip of the leaf).
Hopefully this is just a minor "hick-up" and nothing to worry about. But I've seen enough grow logs go to shits because the lack of taking stuff like this serious.
Not the best start of the day, but I'm a Viking. I will endure.
Peace!
Paracelsus
New member
Cal Mag deficiency "COULD" be the problem take a look at these pics http://www.growweedeasy.com/calcium-deficiency-cannabis
starramus
New member
Also possibly just good old age spots. Time is fleeting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkplPbd2f60 "Perfect expectations are seldom achieved in an imperfect universe." quote by starramus
DingusKhan
New member
That's deep man.
Cocho
New member
I was also thinking Cal Mag deficiency. But my tap water is hard (pH 8,5) and contains a good amount of minerals, so it should be fine. But then again, it's still possible. Also.. my run off have been measured to the lower parts of the pH scale (pH 5,5 - 6), but it has been like that since the beginning. And I've done a flush in the past, which worked, but the pH was back to "normal" (5,5 - 6) in just a week or so. So it really did not have any effect at all. I don't own pH-UP or pH-DOWN (since I'm growing organic). I do have some Dolomite, but that stuff is only good for mixing into the soil, am I right?
Then again.. there was only a few leaves affected by this. I can't see any more spots, so it's not aggressive.
Maybe I should flush this lady a little next time I water? Just take her in the shower and give her a good soaking?
My water alone works as a pH-UP, so it could be good for her if it's Cal Mag deficiency because of low pH levels?
Then again.. there was only a few leaves affected by this. I can't see any more spots, so it's not aggressive.
Maybe I should flush this lady a little next time I water? Just take her in the shower and give her a good soaking?
My water alone works as a pH-UP, so it could be good for her if it's Cal Mag deficiency because of low pH levels?
Mr.furley
New member
Cocho, like several other Growers have said I wouldn't worry to much, and calmag. I would look at getting your runoff PH to a constant 6.3. It is the sweet spot for calmag consumption and will benefit you there. The Aurora in my last grow was quick to show problems were the other strains did not till a little later. Good luck your plant they are moving right along.
Paracelsus
New member
it could be pelvic thrust
Cocho
New member
Ok. So I should take is easy and just regulate the pH? I've also noticed some burnt tips. So it might just be too much nutrients. I gave her more than normal last time (4ml/L). So it might be a good idea to clean the soil a bit, then give her a weaker mix and see how she reacts?
But how do you suggest I deal with the pH value? I don't have any additives, and stuff like that are not sold in stores here. I would have to order some online, and wait for it to get her. Might take a week, or more. Like I mentioned before; my tap water is kind of "hard", so I've been using it as a "pH-UP" until now. So maybe a round or two with pure water, just to get rid of some of that salt, and "boost" the pH-value at the same time?
But how do you suggest I deal with the pH value? I don't have any additives, and stuff like that are not sold in stores here. I would have to order some online, and wait for it to get her. Might take a week, or more. Like I mentioned before; my tap water is kind of "hard", so I've been using it as a "pH-UP" until now. So maybe a round or two with pure water, just to get rid of some of that salt, and "boost" the pH-value at the same time?
Paracelsus
New member
Cocho I just want to be sure I understand your PH situation. Your Tap water is high around 8.5 and goes as low as 5.5 in a week or so after feeding/watering.
So you are saying when you feed and water your plant it normally swings up from below 6.0 to above 8.0 when you water and feed. To me that is a very wide swing. you asked about how to adjust pH up. Baking Soda and Lime can do this but I'm thinking you need to pH down before you feed and water.
RO/water mixed with your regular tap water I believe should bring your feeding and flushing PH down.
I hope Mr.furley and some other wizards and alchemists can chime in
Read the whole article but this section covers what I mean.,
NebulaHaze 's tutorial on pH http://www.growweedeasy.com/ph
No Need to Be Exact - Let pH Range Up & Down
The thing to remember with pH is that you don't need to be exact. What you do need to be is consistent in keeping the pH from creeping too high or too low in your plant root zone.
As long as you stick within the recommended pH ranges above, you will prevent the majority of all nutrient problems caused by too-high or too-low pH.
Why is it a good idea to let the pH cover a range instead of always adjusting to the exact same pH number? Some nutrients are better absorbed at slightly higher pH readings, while others are absorbed better at lower pH readings. Not having to try to pinpoint an exact number also saves a lot of unnecessary frustration.
If your marijuana plant roots are experiencing the wrong pH, it's recommended you react as soon as you notice, and not wait until you actually notice problems with the leaves. It can be tempting to ignore a pH problem, but you’ll often get the best results by acting before your plant displays a problem. That being said, if your plant is growing green, vibrant and healthy, sometimes the old saying applies, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Tips
So you are saying when you feed and water your plant it normally swings up from below 6.0 to above 8.0 when you water and feed. To me that is a very wide swing. you asked about how to adjust pH up. Baking Soda and Lime can do this but I'm thinking you need to pH down before you feed and water.
RO/water mixed with your regular tap water I believe should bring your feeding and flushing PH down.
I hope Mr.furley and some other wizards and alchemists can chime in
Read the whole article but this section covers what I mean.,
NebulaHaze 's tutorial on pH http://www.growweedeasy.com/ph
No Need to Be Exact - Let pH Range Up & Down
The thing to remember with pH is that you don't need to be exact. What you do need to be is consistent in keeping the pH from creeping too high or too low in your plant root zone.
As long as you stick within the recommended pH ranges above, you will prevent the majority of all nutrient problems caused by too-high or too-low pH.
Why is it a good idea to let the pH cover a range instead of always adjusting to the exact same pH number? Some nutrients are better absorbed at slightly higher pH readings, while others are absorbed better at lower pH readings. Not having to try to pinpoint an exact number also saves a lot of unnecessary frustration.
If your marijuana plant roots are experiencing the wrong pH, it's recommended you react as soon as you notice, and not wait until you actually notice problems with the leaves. It can be tempting to ignore a pH problem, but you’ll often get the best results by acting before your plant displays a problem. That being said, if your plant is growing green, vibrant and healthy, sometimes the old saying applies, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Tips
- Be consistent in making sure pH stays in the range
- You don’t need to be exact, just keep an eye on things and react if you notice the pH is getting too high or too low
- Add all of your nutrients to your water first before checking and adjusting the pH. Your nutrients will affect the pH of your water so it's important they get added before making any adjustments.
Cocho
New member
Yes, you've got it right. My tap water comes out at 8,5 from the spring in my kitchen. And when I add nutrients and such to it, it ranges about 7, but usually when I measure the run off, it comes out at 5,5 - 6,0. And I do this every second week or so. It has been like this since the early stages of veg stage. And I believe it's my fault actually. Because when I planted the seed, she was living in a small 1 liter (4 cups) pot, but after a few weeks she had this boom in root development, and because of some work stuff etc. experienced a situation where I either had to let her stay in the small pot for 3-4 days, even tho the roots were poking out underneath the pot. Or use the large 15 liters (4 gallon) pot I had standing here. And I didn't have time to buy a medium sized one, and the weekend was coming. Everything was kind of a "last resort", kind of a deal.
And because of that I believe something might have happened in the lower parts of the pot. Maybe it didn't dry up enough or something. Even tho I exercised great caution when watering her, only giving her the smallest amount of water every time. (To make sure I didn't provoke root rot or something like that).
But after a while I noticed some disturbances. And after some research and some careful handling of the plant, plus thrown a few questions at you guys. I decided to flush her, and hopefully clean out some salts or other bad stuff. She had a great recovery, and have been growing superbly since then. And every second week or so, I've been measuring the run off, just in case. And since that time she has been low on the pH-scale. So I've constantly kept an eye on her, and I've been ready to act if something were to develop. But nothing ever did. She's been healthy, good looking and over all a pretty plant. So I've not done anything about it. I bought a bag of dolomite, but ended up not using it after all, since it's a supplement for adding in to the soil, not to mix with the feeding water like I wanted to try.
So basically what I'm saying here is; that the tap water comes out at 8,5. But after I've added nutrients and stuff to it, it comes out at 7. And after a two weeks (2-3 feedings) the run off comes out at 5,5 - 6,0. Which I don't approve of.
So it's not such a big "swing". I was just unclear on the exact numbers.
And I've read most of the guides relevant to my project and my experience doing this project. Including the one you referred to right there. And that is why I've not "over reacted" about the pH values. Because in nature, nothing is totally accurate. Plus, if you grow in super soil you're never supposed to adjust the pH, since the soil will do that for you. I know this is not super soil, but someone told me to be a little careful not so mess up the natural balance in this organic soil mix. Because that usually makes things 100 times worse. So what I've done is regulate in the way I can, without messing with mother nature.
And I have some further information, which I acquired yesterday, and some of it today. Because yesterday I took away the ScrOG net, so that I could turn the plant around and really get a good look. And what I noticed was that the only leaves affected by the brown/orange dots, where the 3 I've already cut off. Non of the others have those. So they might have come from physical damage, cause by me. I don't have delicate hands. Mine a made for working with rocks and wood. Not trimming flowers. So they tend to get in my way when I try to cut away some of the leaves now and then. And sometimes I poke a stem, or scratch a leaf. Or it might have come from over feeding. Because today when I was getting ready to feed her, I noticed some burnt tips. Just 2 of them, but enough for me to realize that I had to make this mixture weaker than the last one.
So what I did was mixing 3 liters (12 cups) of water with; 3ml/L BioBloom, 1ml/L BioGrow, 1ml/L TopMax and 1 teaspoon of Molasses. But before I have her the "food", I gave her 6 liters (1,5 gallon) of pure water. And I took my time. Guess I spent 2 hours total, just giving her 1-2 liters at a time. And after I gave her the feeding water I did a measurement of the run off. And it came out at 6,0 - 6,5, which is good.
So now I'll be watching her carefully for the next week or so. She has some "symptoms" with the resemblance with those affected by this "mosaic virus". I mentioned it a few weeks ago. But then again, the symptoms might come from the pH. There's nothing to it. It's just some of the leaves. They look like they are in "50 shades of green". And according to the guide this might affect the yield, but if it is this "mosaic virus" there's nothing anyone can do about it. It's not toxic, and it won't harm anyone. It just might affect the yield.
Anyway. There's not much I can do at the moment. I'll just have to give her time. But the silver lining her is; there has been no new brown/orange spots anywhere, and the run off came out perfect.
So we're still kicking!
Thanks for the support guys. Keep the feedback coming! This is the final sprint, and this is where everything can (and will if I let it) go wrong.
Peace!
And because of that I believe something might have happened in the lower parts of the pot. Maybe it didn't dry up enough or something. Even tho I exercised great caution when watering her, only giving her the smallest amount of water every time. (To make sure I didn't provoke root rot or something like that).
But after a while I noticed some disturbances. And after some research and some careful handling of the plant, plus thrown a few questions at you guys. I decided to flush her, and hopefully clean out some salts or other bad stuff. She had a great recovery, and have been growing superbly since then. And every second week or so, I've been measuring the run off, just in case. And since that time she has been low on the pH-scale. So I've constantly kept an eye on her, and I've been ready to act if something were to develop. But nothing ever did. She's been healthy, good looking and over all a pretty plant. So I've not done anything about it. I bought a bag of dolomite, but ended up not using it after all, since it's a supplement for adding in to the soil, not to mix with the feeding water like I wanted to try.
So basically what I'm saying here is; that the tap water comes out at 8,5. But after I've added nutrients and stuff to it, it comes out at 7. And after a two weeks (2-3 feedings) the run off comes out at 5,5 - 6,0. Which I don't approve of.
So it's not such a big "swing". I was just unclear on the exact numbers.
And I've read most of the guides relevant to my project and my experience doing this project. Including the one you referred to right there. And that is why I've not "over reacted" about the pH values. Because in nature, nothing is totally accurate. Plus, if you grow in super soil you're never supposed to adjust the pH, since the soil will do that for you. I know this is not super soil, but someone told me to be a little careful not so mess up the natural balance in this organic soil mix. Because that usually makes things 100 times worse. So what I've done is regulate in the way I can, without messing with mother nature.
And I have some further information, which I acquired yesterday, and some of it today. Because yesterday I took away the ScrOG net, so that I could turn the plant around and really get a good look. And what I noticed was that the only leaves affected by the brown/orange dots, where the 3 I've already cut off. Non of the others have those. So they might have come from physical damage, cause by me. I don't have delicate hands. Mine a made for working with rocks and wood. Not trimming flowers. So they tend to get in my way when I try to cut away some of the leaves now and then. And sometimes I poke a stem, or scratch a leaf. Or it might have come from over feeding. Because today when I was getting ready to feed her, I noticed some burnt tips. Just 2 of them, but enough for me to realize that I had to make this mixture weaker than the last one.
So what I did was mixing 3 liters (12 cups) of water with; 3ml/L BioBloom, 1ml/L BioGrow, 1ml/L TopMax and 1 teaspoon of Molasses. But before I have her the "food", I gave her 6 liters (1,5 gallon) of pure water. And I took my time. Guess I spent 2 hours total, just giving her 1-2 liters at a time. And after I gave her the feeding water I did a measurement of the run off. And it came out at 6,0 - 6,5, which is good.
So now I'll be watching her carefully for the next week or so. She has some "symptoms" with the resemblance with those affected by this "mosaic virus". I mentioned it a few weeks ago. But then again, the symptoms might come from the pH. There's nothing to it. It's just some of the leaves. They look like they are in "50 shades of green". And according to the guide this might affect the yield, but if it is this "mosaic virus" there's nothing anyone can do about it. It's not toxic, and it won't harm anyone. It just might affect the yield.
Anyway. There's not much I can do at the moment. I'll just have to give her time. But the silver lining her is; there has been no new brown/orange spots anywhere, and the run off came out perfect.
So we're still kicking!
Thanks for the support guys. Keep the feedback coming! This is the final sprint, and this is where everything can (and will if I let it) go wrong.
Peace!
Mr.furley
New member
Paracelsus, as I stir my coldrain and gaze into the Gwe.com crystal ball I see PH problems like this coming from needed to flush more/better or over feeding and not letting your pot go to runoff I personally dump a half gallon of flush water out once a week. The biggest problem with a high swing PH number like this is salt and Nute build up in the soil, not to mention simple Growers mistake can cause it, it happens. I would suspect what's going on is feeding at 8. is not allowing the plant to absorb and starting to get build-up from leftover nutrients the plant can't use, so s flush should fix this and let me reintegrate that this problem is not a major one yet, it is very minoot in early. in a ideal grow the number going in should be the number coming out if you start here and fight your darndest to keep it the here going in/out you'll have better control over your grow and a easier time. I will give a long babbling example of my last grow with Aurora indica and how a ph swing can grab your plant.
I was using ph tape and it started to run out so I bought some Gh drops and order a Tds meter and PH pen, trying to conserve tape I stopped measuring my out PH and keep feeding at the same in PH and nutes schedule and whatever I did with that week ( double dose of nudes ,forgot a flush, not reading the tape right I don't know) I started getting pH readings at 4 on my out pH with drops and 5 with the tape, I flushed for a week and got back to 6.3ph my plants got back to business. I now use ppm to determine the nutrient level coming out/in of my soil and gives me a clearer picture when to feed and went to stop it cannot stress more to calibrate your pins often.
The biggest thing I'm hoping to get across is that step number one when a grower see's the start of a nutrient deficiency or problem the first reaction is to add more nutes/ supplements or take it away but the course that should be followed is to make sure your pH is in check first. Calcium and magnesium need each other to absorb correctly in the plant one is absorb at 6. pH and the other is absorbance 6.3 so if your medium pH doesn't swing into that range you will not be absorbing them and only adding them to dump down the toilet or cause buildup, this is why my Target pH is 6.3 to absorb every nutrient in the schedule. I believe in my own grow experience that allowed when your pH to move through your pH Zone from time to time 5.5 to 6.5 in Coco, I personally stay in between 5.8 and 6.4 can allowing your pH to help absorb all of the nutrients around the board intern saving you money by not having to feed as much to waste. Make sense.
you are right that after the runoff pH is correct ph down is needed to start off on a good foot, and diluting with RO water can work the ratio is crazy, like 6 part R/o the 1 part tap water or something like that Imo.
hope this helps
Mr.furley, not really a wizard just a guy who likes plants!
I was using ph tape and it started to run out so I bought some Gh drops and order a Tds meter and PH pen, trying to conserve tape I stopped measuring my out PH and keep feeding at the same in PH and nutes schedule and whatever I did with that week ( double dose of nudes ,forgot a flush, not reading the tape right I don't know) I started getting pH readings at 4 on my out pH with drops and 5 with the tape, I flushed for a week and got back to 6.3ph my plants got back to business. I now use ppm to determine the nutrient level coming out/in of my soil and gives me a clearer picture when to feed and went to stop it cannot stress more to calibrate your pins often.
The biggest thing I'm hoping to get across is that step number one when a grower see's the start of a nutrient deficiency or problem the first reaction is to add more nutes/ supplements or take it away but the course that should be followed is to make sure your pH is in check first. Calcium and magnesium need each other to absorb correctly in the plant one is absorb at 6. pH and the other is absorbance 6.3 so if your medium pH doesn't swing into that range you will not be absorbing them and only adding them to dump down the toilet or cause buildup, this is why my Target pH is 6.3 to absorb every nutrient in the schedule. I believe in my own grow experience that allowed when your pH to move through your pH Zone from time to time 5.5 to 6.5 in Coco, I personally stay in between 5.8 and 6.4 can allowing your pH to help absorb all of the nutrients around the board intern saving you money by not having to feed as much to waste. Make sense.
you are right that after the runoff pH is correct ph down is needed to start off on a good foot, and diluting with RO water can work the ratio is crazy, like 6 part R/o the 1 part tap water or something like that Imo.
hope this helps
Mr.furley, not really a wizard just a guy who likes plants!
Last edited:
Locrian99
New member
At which point do you become concerned with variance on what going in and what’s coming out. If I’m watering at 6.4 and I have 6.8 coming out (soil) should I assume my root zone is actually closer to 7.2. I figured that as long as what’s coming out was in the 6-7 range I was good. I use those specific numbers because my last watering was 6.4 in with 6.7-6.9 out depending on plant (the previous watering I used raw silica, wondering if this has something to do with rise.). Would you suggest hitting at 6.0 next watering to bring back down closer to 6.5? Sorry to hijack your thread cocho
Mr.furley
New member
Locrian99, your plant is in acceptable range with a runoff of 6.8 your roots zone is 6.8.
Moving At least 1. and Beyond you need to correct it, between .5-1. I take in consideration for my next feeding/watering Ph.0-.5 is where I ideally try to operate, giving 6.5 in and reading 6.3 out is good to go, giving 5.8 in and getting 6.3 out is good to go to.
It is all in micromanaging your grow and everybody's grow is different the main thing is how are your plants looking! if they're doing great and pH isn't out of whack too far maybe you should do nothing because a lot of new Growers will act too fast on something and create a problem. Once a grower gets a couple grows under their belt you get a clear understanding of how your nutrients, water, feeding environment, go together this becomes less of the struggle to keep proper.
It is worthy to note I grow in Coco and Journal all my numbers for my Waters each time in and out.
Moving At least 1. and Beyond you need to correct it, between .5-1. I take in consideration for my next feeding/watering Ph.0-.5 is where I ideally try to operate, giving 6.5 in and reading 6.3 out is good to go, giving 5.8 in and getting 6.3 out is good to go to.
It is all in micromanaging your grow and everybody's grow is different the main thing is how are your plants looking! if they're doing great and pH isn't out of whack too far maybe you should do nothing because a lot of new Growers will act too fast on something and create a problem. Once a grower gets a couple grows under their belt you get a clear understanding of how your nutrients, water, feeding environment, go together this becomes less of the struggle to keep proper.
It is worthy to note I grow in Coco and Journal all my numbers for my Waters each time in and out.
Locrian99
New member
Cool cocho, hey it’s the same strain too well two of them are. They are looking ok Furley not perfect. You hit the nail on the head with being a new grower over thinking everything and causing more problems then you had. I know I’ve done this. Friend who is experienced was over the other night and we were looking at my young plants and we were talking about a few things on them. His response was it’s a plant they aren’t all going to grow perfect.