Massive issues with first grow, what is wrong?

[SiRo]

Hey, I am right into my first run and ran into a lot more issues than anticipated. https://imgur.com/a/v0FwaSf
Those are autoflowers genetics.

The fabric ones are in a pro mix with Biotabs while being in 5 gal pots. I gave the fertilizer a few days later, because I didn't want to burn them. The first Biotab came into the soil 1 week after potting them as stated by the nutrient manufacturer. I use not phed water, also as told by the manufacturer.

The plastic ones are in plagron coco/perlite mix in 3,9gal Autopots.(System is not on) I just started giving them canna coco a+b and cal/mag with 400ec at 6,0ph. Before they had tap water as well and no nutrients for the first week. Today I will do a new badge with 600-700ec think.

The temperature is about 24°C and unfortunately a low humidity of 40-48%. That's why I got some clear seedlings cups and spray them with water every now and then. They seemed to like that.
The big one might have PMD, I spayed it with water/milk mixture. How long do I need to do it?

Otherwise I have 120x120cm tent and a 480w led at 20% intensity. It was first at 38cm but it now at about 50 since I was afraid the Stress was coming from the light. An 6" inline fan is running on lowest speed 24/7. One oscillating fan runs every now and then.

I know the vpd is way off, but can the issues really stem from that alone? As soon as problems arose I got those cups and bought a humidifier that arrived today. Could it be Windstress otherwise or is the tapwater (I live in an area with drinkable tap water) the culprit?

I'd be happy to hear your input. I am afraid I stunted them already and the grow is failed.

Some things I noticed. Even though some are the same genetic and they had the same conditions they developed completely differently. The browning started at the tips and moved up. Some got what seemed to be spots all over the leafs shortly after. Some had twisted leafs, some were just hanging down and clawing down

 

[Bluey]

Post your pics here, we don't like links. A too low RH early on can cause problems especially without any nutrients. Tap water doesn't have nutrients, just some trace elements sometimes.

They may be suffering from lack of nutes early on especially with a high vpd.I start mine in 0.4ec immediately and increase a little every day or two...id be at 0.8 around week 2 to 3. I have started at 0.8 but it caused heaps of burn and mutations from the stress.

 

[SiRo]

I wasn't able to upload them here and there and the website said to use imgur.
Well, that's what I reckoned. It's just a bit odd, since I was told by the nutrient manufacturer and the seed breeder to not feed in the first week

Now with the humidifier, on what should I set it. I know that seedlings can withstand a lot of humidity, but will it shock them from going from to dry to very humid?

 

[golfnrl]

Hey SiRo welcome aboard. Don’t panic. If you’re following the Biotabs directions continue to do so. I have limited experience with Biotabs, only one grow and then I ditched them for something I could control.

What I’m seeing looks like PH and nutrient issues to me.

Autopots are the bomb. Is coco mix 50/50 with perlite? Your EC is high. It needs to be 1.2 for that stage of growth, def less than 2.0. Think 1/4 strength for nutrients in the seedling stage. Coco has little to no nutritional value for plants. So they will only have what you give them. But it’s easy to give too much. PH range for coco is 5.8-6.1 so you’re good there. wait until the leaves reach the side of the pot before you turn on the autopots. Usually takes 7-10 days once transplanted into the autopot.

I have no experience with a water/milk spray for PMD, White Powdery Mold? WPM but from what I’ve read there’s really not a time limit. Use it to best advantage.

Improper PH, EC, and VPD can cause everything you’re seeing in your grow. Especially the PH fluctuations. PH’d water should be used all the time. Improper PH causes your plant to lock out nutrients it needs.

What is your light manufacturer’s recommendations for proper distance above the canopy? Follow that advice or, I’d recommend at least 60cm during the vegetative period.

 

[golfnrl]

You won’t harm your plants by raising the RH. You’re right, fresh seedlings like a lot of humidity. Set the humidifier to raise your RH to high 50’s low 60’s.

 

[Bluey]

80% on sprouting to maybe 70% on its 4th or 5th set of leaves. Try and keep a conservative vpd. You can let temps come up a couple of degrees. I head to about 60% transitioning to flower.

 

[SiRo]

Hey SiRo welcome aboard. Don’t panic. If you’re following the Biotabs directions continue to do so. I have limited experience with Biotabs, only one grow and then I ditched them for something I could control.

What I’m seeing looks like PH and nutrient issues to me.

Autopots are the bomb. Is coco mix 50/50 with perlite? Your EC is high. It needs to be 1.2 for that stage of growth, def less than 2.0. Think 1/4 strength for nutrients in the seedling stage. Coco has little to no nutritional value for plants. So they will only have what you give them. But it’s easy to give too much. PH range for coco is 5.8-6.1 so you’re good there. wait until the leaves reach the side of the pot before you turn on the autopots. Usually takes 7-10 days once transplanted into the autopot.

I have no experience with a water/milk spray for PMD, White Powdery Mold? WPM but from what I’ve read there’s really not a time limit. Use it to best advantage.

Improper PH, EC, and VPD can cause everything you’re seeing in your grow. Especially the PH fluctuations. PH’d water should be used all the time. Improper PH causes your plant to lock out nutrients it needs.

What is your light manufacturer’s recommendations for proper distance above the canopy? Follow that advice or, I’d recommend at least 60cm during the vegetative period.

Thanks for the kind words. I will do, hopefully they get enough nutrients from the tabs soon. It is a 70/30 mix from plagron, so should be high quality. The ec is only at 400, I want to get it up to 1200 over the coming weeks. (Or 0,4-1,2 Millisiemens)
I sprouted the seeds with cotton pads and a 100% succesrate and put them into easy plugs. From then into the final containter, since I heard autoflowers shouldn't be transplanted often.

Yeah I know about the nutrient lockout, but since they weren't supposed to get any nutrients (and the shipment of my pH meter was delayed) I just gave them tapwater, since that's what the nutrient manufacturer told me
Do you think it is mainly a certain nutrient deficiency? Should I give more Calmag?

 

[golfnrl]

It looks like to me that you may be loving your plant to death. I have not heard of Plagron but did check out their web site. A 70/30m coco/perlite blend is OK. IMHO, 400 EC at this stage of growth will kill the plant. It's too immature to handle that amount of nutrients. Less is more at this stage of growth, really every stage. It's easy to believe that giving the plant a lot of nutrients will help it, it doesn't work that way. That's why we see burnt leaf tips on most grows, including my own.

After looking at the Canna web site, may I ask why you want an EC of 400 when their product says the range is 0.8 to 1.8? I can't comment further on the Biotabs plants because I wouldn't want to steer you in the wrong direction. Coco loves Cal/mag, the plants in the cloth pots may need some Calmag, but not too much. Try it and watch. The plant won't repair the leaves with brown spots. You'll need to pay attention to the new growth to see if the additional Calmag is helping.

Also, check out cocoforcannabis.com. Some good general info there.

 

[Bluey]

Starting at an EC of 0.8 in coco can and does kill plants golfnrl. Its the recommended highest start from a few manufacturers from what I've seen on the liquid nute front.

I tried that high start on my first auto grow and a few photoperiods and ended up with serious burn on all of them and a mutation from the stress. 0.4 to 0.5 EC @ a pH of 6.0 is a safe start and although on the lower side it's a good start, the plants won't be struggling for nutes and it is in range for sure.

 

[golfnrl]

Bluey You may be right, that's not my experience. I think the advice is to use the manufacturers recommendation and cut that in half or quarter. I don't usually measure EC but when I do I measure it, I like to start off at .07 or a little less, haven't lost a plant yet.