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Sick plant

B

Brwnthmb

New member
I have several of these that look pretty much alike.
They were over watered early on, then possibly too much or too little light. I know these are no good but I need to know what to do next time.
these were grown inside, in the peat containers. I started the seeds to seedlings on a heat mat, then moved to a small ferry morse light (white fluorescent) then moved to a foot square led light. I am trying to keep the light the correct distance. I think the light was too close early in this plant’s life, as well as overwatering. But please give me your best diagnosis. Thank you.
 

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Its a little leggy cause it's chasing the light. Move it closer. Looks like a case of overwatering and should have been moved to a bigger container, and it might need some food if there isn't any in the grow medium. Not too late to save it. Give more grow details, environment, temps, RH, nutrients, feeding schedule, grow medium, lights, distance to canopy, etc.
 
Your Ferry Morse light is no more than a t5 fluorescent bulb. Fluorescents (t5's and CFL's) usually stay 3"-4" from your plant.
If you were using a t5 for veg, what brand and model is your LED?
Are your plants autos, feminized, or photoperiod? If auto, you can save them with what those other folks are talking about and decent lighting and look for a couple bowls. If feminized or photoperiod, you can grow them out to real fine bushes. It'll take some work but it can be done.
 
Rwise said:
When/if you transplant it, plant it much deeper, and loose the PP
Click to expand...

Are you suggesting that I can bury the stem below the surface of the soil and just leave 2-3 inches of stem above the surface, and roots will sprout from the stem that is buried?
 
golfnrl said:
Its a little leggy cause it's chasing the light. Move it closer. Looks like a case of overwatering and should have been moved to a bigger container, and it might need some food if there isn't any in the grow medium. Not too late to save it. Give more grow details, environment, temps, RH, nutrients, feeding schedule, grow medium, lights, distance to canopy, etc.
Click to expand...
I can’t give you numbers but the generalities are that the seedlings start in the bathroom and then are moved to a closet. Both are air conditioned so low rh and temp about 72F. Also I have a fan blowing over the tops of the plants in the closet. I water when the surface is dry. I don’t provide additional nutrients. I bottom water- when the surface dries out, and leave the pots in the standing water for about 5 minutes (until the surface is wet again). (The problem plants I feel sure were watered way longer than this.)
The plants were too close to the light on the problem plants (I feel sure) with light burn. Now I put the plants 5-6 inches away. (I had read a website that said 2 inches was ok) the square led lights are at 24 inches (now).
I do have a few plants in an 8 inch diameter clay pot and the peat cup is buried in potting soil.
 
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Gingerbeard said:
Your Ferry Morse light is no more than a t5 fluorescent bulb. Fluorescents (t5's and CFL's) usually stay 3"-4" from your plant.
If you were using a t5 for veg, what brand and model is your LED?
Are your plants autos, feminized, or photoperiod? If auto, you can save them with what those other folks are talking about and decent lighting and look for a couple bowls. If feminized or photoperiod, you can grow them out to real fine bushes. It'll take some work but it can be done.
Click to expand...

my led is a spider farmer sf1000. I was trying to use the t5
for seedlings, led for vegetation. (Or just the t5 for the small plants)
The plants are feminized.
I don’t think it matters too much but at exactly what point does a plant go from seedling to vegetation? Is it when the plant makes a fully formed palm shaped leaf or just when the plant makes its first leaves with a serrated edge?
 
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There are actually different 'guidelines' you can find on the internet about seedling to veg after so many leaves. Except for nutrients, there isn't a lot of difference in how you grow them.
If you work your SF right, you can bring your little plant into a producer. It'll take time but you can do it. Depends on where you want to go from here.
So... where do you want to go from here?
If you want to respond to someone, you can write their handle with the @ and it will get their attention. Way easier Brwnthmb.
 
I think your main problem from the start is the peat pots. They are almost impossible to water correctly. In your pic the bottom is soggy but the sides are still dry(roots dont like to stay soggy without air). And they dry out very fast. Even if you do get them to grow the peat pot doesn't deteriorate or break down in soil so the roots stay bound in that pot...you have to shred the bottom of the pot before you transplant it. Next, the heat mat..does it have a temperature control? If not, its probably too hot, i have one without temp control so i use a 1/4 inch piece of foam between the mat and plants. Not sure about your lights but the stretch would indicate the lights are too far away or too weak.
 
Yes, bury the plant like was suggested. Won't be a problem. Unless you're growing in a living soil you will need to add some nutrients or your plants will die. I suppose bottom watering is OK but watering from the top is better IMHO. You want a little run off, but as long as the soil is not saturated you should be OK. I use peat pots, they're easy to use. You will need to cut out the bottom of the peat pot when you transplant. Or simply remove the plant from the pot. I've done it both ways. I prefer cutting away the pot when transplanting. Transplant your seedling when the serrated leaves reach the side of the container. You should be able to see roots at the drain holes in your pot. Follow your light manufacturer's recommendations for how high and how intense to set your light. 2" or 5-6" is too close. Not uncommon for an LED to be 20-24" from the canopy.
 
Another negative on the peat pots, the PH of peat is ~3.4 so they are very acidic.
I also agree bottom watering is not ideal, and the heat mat without controls is hard to use, mine killed the seeds
 
I'd go coco medium next time with a good ph-ec meter like an Apera PC60. Don't forget the calibration and storage fluid
 
Rwise said:
Are these autos or photos?
If autos how old are they?
Click to expand...
They are photos; flowers when light is less than 12 hours.
and answering your other question; the current light cycle is 16 hours on, 8 hours of darkness.
for whatever reason I couldn’t answer your post that asked for the light schedule. There was not an option for quote or reply, only flag. (These were the options to choose from when I pressed the 3 dots in the bottom right of your message.)
 
I use a PC with firefox, and add this by clicking "Comment", to reply to the comment click the "Comment" above this comment.
Many photos will flower at 14/10s, My outdoor girls have been flowering for a while now, and I have some do this every year.
16/8 is good for now, with photos you can fix the issue/s and then flower them.
 
Here is one of this years plants, my sunlight is 12 hours 48 minutes today and less tomorrow. Its called Berryfreak,
DSCN2556.jpg
 
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