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HELP! A Rookie Needs Your Help -ASAP-

goygoy

New member
Hey Entourage,

This is my second growing adventure and this time I'm having a lot of problem ..

I had given them Bloom Nutrient at first step by mistake...(GHE Organic 2-3-4)
and they seemed sick to me so I had flushed them and given 1/2 of recommended dose nutrient.
They were getting better then i had thought there is a nutrient deficiency;i raised up the dose
(Also i used cal-mg)
Everything seemed normal but today 2 of them's leaves starting to fall off.

They are on 24 hours nonstop light schedule
Ph range is 6-7
Temperature 20-30C degree
Humidity %60-70

My strains:
Dinafem Seeds Moby Dick XXL AUTO
Dinafem Seeds Critical + 2.0 AUTO
OGKZ


Today is 28th day.I'm thinking they are not growing properly.They had to be more tall?
Soil is not drying out in 2-3 days(1 week in avarege)[After flushing almost never got dry]- i purchased off new pots- Should i change ?
Why is Moby growing like a creep?
What am i missing?
I have not so much time and and chance like this.So I need your help.

*Sorry about my english
 

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Hello and welcome, So from this point on do not give anything but plain Ph water clean no additives. It may take some time how long I don't know. Your soil needs more aeration more perlite rock mixed into it to get air to the roots. Without it soil gets compact roots tiny ones hard to breath and grow. If they are all autos they may been stunted may not produce much autos are very sensitive to wrong things happening to them. You have those plastic bags I hope they have lots of holes in them? Next time buy some fabric pots they help a lot with aeration. Are you growing in a tent?
 
Hello goygoy,
Welcome to GWE.
What type of soil/growing medium are you using?
If the soil is staying wet you may need more perlite to help with drainage.
Old leaves will not recover easily so good that new leaves are green.
 
Hello and welcome, So from this point on do not give anything but plain Ph water clean no additives. It may take some time how long I don't know. Your soil needs more aeration more perlite rock mixed into it to get air to the roots. Without it soil gets compact roots tiny ones hard to breath and grow. If they are all autos they may been stunted may not produce much autos are very sensitive to wrong things happening to them. You have those plastic bags I hope they have lots of holes in them? Next time buy some fabric pots they help a lot with aeration. Are you growing in a tent?

Thanks for response.I will add more perlite. Should i change the pots?-I bought air pots- If I change will i hurt the roots ?And yes I'm growing in a tent.
 
Hello goygoy,
Welcome to GWE.
What type of soil/growing medium are you using?
If the soil is staying wet you may need more perlite to help with drainage.
Old leaves will not recover easily so good that new leaves are green.
Biobizz Coco Mix
 
Hi goygoy, I think you may be overwatering. I have been and am still guilty of this. So see how long you can go before you water again. These plants are not like people who need water every day. What concerned me was your statement “Soil is not drying out in 2-3 days(1 week in avarege)[After flushing almost never got dry”. I would move to cloth pots or air pots if in the budget, make sure that you have a fan to move air in room or tent and consider lowering humidity. Hopefully you do not have root rot. If you do have root rot and depending on your available seeds, finances and time you my want to consider starting over in new soil. Also if it makes you feel any better I think that having a good first grow and then having trouble with ones second and/or third grow is pretty typical. Work with the great group here. Sadly some hydro stores just want to sell you that you probably don’t need.
 
Well that's a real touchy subject autos at 30days should be flowering most do. It's kinda late I've never transplanted auto that old? Yes it will bother the roots, what it will do I don't know perhaps hermi create false seeds? Wish I knew but i'm thinking this late in transplant may be harming them more? This is a tough call for me, hate to see you loose your plants.
 
Hello again goygoy,

If you do not have a pH pen I would recommend the Apera Instruments AI311 Premium Series PH60 Waterproof pH Pocket Tester Kit, Replaceable Probe and then ordering a calibration solution kit. Here is what you need to consider. If you have water that is outside of the 6.5 - 6.8 range of pH you will not be growing in the best way. You might try to find out the pH of the water in your area. If it generally is 7.0 or below you can get this:

8oz. pH Calibration Buffer Solution Kit (pH 4.00 & 7.00), plus 4oz. 3M KCL Storage Solution for pH/ORP Electrodes

If it is over 7.0 get this: 8oz. pH Calibration Buffer Solution Kit (pH 4.00, 7.00 & 10.01), plus 4oz 3M KCL Storage Solution for pH/ORP Electrodes

Where I live where the pH is over 8 so I needed to calibrate my pen between 7 and 10 to read accurately in the 8.x range. The KCL in both kits are to keep the tip of the pen hydrated when stored.

I have owned a more expensive pen but like my Apera pen. What people are generally not told is that all of these pens with current technology die. Apera said that their pens last for about 8 months to 1 year. The pen I recommended allows you to replace the tip once it dies. The replacement tips for this pen cost $32 today which is a lot cheaper than buying a whole new pen. That is about $2.66 a month. It will pay for itself if you water’s pH is substantially off.

Also you need to buy some distilled water to rinse it in. You probably know this but distilled water is generally discouraged for watering you plants as it can leech minerals from the soil if I remember correctly.

If you are using nutrients mix them and let them sit for around 20 - 30 minutes before checking the pH.

With reference to the calibration solutions Apera solutions can be reused for up to 10 times but make sure your pen is clean before calibrating and store them in something with a top that seals. Apera sends you vials for this with the kit. If you have any questions call Apera they have good customer service.

Also when adjusting the pH of your water start with small amounts until you learn how much you will generally need for the amount of water you are pH’ing. When your plants are small you probably don’t need more than 1 cup per plant. Later on in flower they may need over a quart per plant. I use Earth Juice products because they are organic and crystalline which gives them a long shelf life.

If you search on the names of the items I mentioned they are all available on Amazon.


Hope that this helps.
 
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I agree with what’s said above- let those babies dry out, then make sure your water is PHd in the 6.5 range. Looks like the one may have a nitrogen deficiency. I learned in my first grow how much PH fluctuations can hurt the plant. You probably know this, but just in case- make sure you’re always checking PH after adding nutes. I’d be curious what the run off PH is...?
 
Greenlivin reminded me of something that I will share which is kind of embarrassing. When I first started growing with Fox Farm nutrients I decided that it would be easier to first put all of these nutrients into my 1 gallon jug then add water. This is a big mistake as I later found out. The nutes bind together is a way that is not beneficial to your 'girls'. I should have read all of the directions. Also some companies they will advise you as to which nutrients to add first, then second and so on. So don't be like me and just read how much of a given nutrient to use, read all of the directions.

The technique I used was as follows. Let's say I was mixing up a gallon of nutes. I would add a quart of water then the first nute, I would have some water to rinse the residue off of the measuring spoon, I would then put the cap on the jug, shake well, and repeat. I generally like to have the jug about
½ full by the time I had added all of the nutes. I would then shake vigorously and add the remaining water and repeat. My logic was that with the bottle half full the nutes would mix better than trying to mix them with an almost full jug. Then as mentioned earlier set a timer for 20 - 30 minutes and check pH.
 
Drainage is important. If you are using a coco coir mix then it's not the soil, it's the pot. Does it have drain holes in the bottom? If not that is likely the reason the soil is not drying out. Also heat and humidity could be off.. your post say the temp is 20-30 degrees...well which is it? It might be too cold or too hot. That's a big enough range to suggest that if the soil isn't drying out it's probably not warm enough so closer to 20 rather than 30. Most cannabis strains like the top end heat to be around 28C but definitely not cooler than 22C in my opinion. If the grow tent is too cold then that's another reason why the soil isn't drying out.

I also agree to stop using nutrients for the next couple of waterings so you can flush the soil and use this guide based on their age https://www.growweedeasy.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/coco-coir-flora-series-schedule.pdf

at 28 days they are small and won't likely produce much. Time will tell.

One final note you didn't say what kind of lighting you are using...are they getting enough full spectrum light? Looks to me like they are just sitting in front of a window and may not be getting enough light. Remember proper light more important than soil, water and nutrients. I think you need to read a few more guides on www.growweedeasy.com
 
Drainage is important. If you are using a coco coir mix then it's not the soil, it's the pot. Does it have drain holes in the bottom? If not that is likely the reason the soil is not drying out. Also heat and humidity could be off.. your post say the temp is 20-30 degrees...well which is it? It might be too cold or too hot. That's a big enough range to suggest that if the soil isn't drying out it's probably not warm enough so closer to 20 rather than 30. Most cannabis strains like the top end heat to be around 28C but definitely not cooler than 22C in my opinion. If the grow tent is too cold then that's another reason why the soil isn't drying out.

I also agree to stop using nutrients for the next couple of waterings so you can flush the soil and use this guide based on their age https://www.growweedeasy.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/coco-coir-flora-series-schedule.pdf

at 28 days they are small and won't likely produce much. Time will tell.

One final note you didn't say what kind of lighting you are using...are they getting enough full spectrum light? Looks to me like they are just sitting in front of a window and may not be getting enough light. Remember proper light more important than soil, water and nutrients. I think you need to read a few more guides on www.growweedeasy.com

Growing in a tent:Using 400W HPS.Average 25C and drain holes like this
WP_20200216_13_27_16_Pro.jpg
 
Goygoy I would consider some fabric pots. They will probably make your life easier. The first ones were Smart Pots brand. I find them overpriced. Search on Amazon. I would check the reviews and look for BPA free. What you are currently using look like shipping bags with holes punched in the bottom. If you are on a budget I understand and admire your cleverness. Having said that I think you will be happy with the fabric pots or even hard sided generic air pots. I bought the generic version which are MaXX Yield"Power Pot". Get at least 5 gallon but 7 or 10 gallon would be better. I got the 7 gallon size. What I like is how easily they clean up. Another option if you are on a tight budget and could find them would be hemp bags like they used to ship potatoes, rice and bird seed in. Here is a picture of one:

iu
 
it is likely a drainage issue. If the soil is not drying out after a week at 25C then the roots are drowning in water. Fabric pots work much better and in your case transplanting is not recommended at least until the plants can recover.
Additionally you have to make sure your water is at the proper PH...for SOIL it should be BETWEEN 6.0 - 7.0 this ensures the roots drink up any nutrients in the soil or added to your water.
Let them dry out. if the top 2 inches of soil are moist, don't water until it is dry and then cut the amount you are watering by half and add more as time goes on.
Also make sure you are following the directions on how to add the nutrients...too much and you hurt the plant...when it comes to nutrients less is better than more.
 
Good advice divish. As for soil moisture I was always told under normal conditions which is not what goygoy has currently that if the soil is dry to the first joint on you finger you should water. This being about 1". Also there is the complication being that some plants may consume more water especially if you are growing multiple varieties.
 
Goygoy I would consider some fabric pots. They will probably make your life easier. The first ones were Smart Pots brand. I find them overpriced. Search on Amazon. I would check the reviews and look for BPA free. What you are currently using look like shipping bags with holes punched in the bottom. If you are on a budget I understand and admire your cleverness. Having said that I think you will be happy with the fabric pots or even hard sided generic air pots. I bought the generic version which are MaXX Yield"Power Pot". Get at least 5 gallon but 7 or 10 gallon would be better. I got the 7 gallon size. What I like is how easily they clean up. Another option if you are on a tight budget and could find them would be hemp bags like they used to ship potatoes, rice and bird seed in. Here is a picture of one:

iu

I'm gonna use these tomorrow and hope they will love new pots.
 

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careful though. Right now you should focus on getting them healthier before repotting them. Judging by the way they look they will likely not survive a transplant shock.

For now just focus on drying them up...no water or nutrients until the first 2 inches are dry. I say 2 inches because the soil is way too wet and even if the top 2 inches are dry the bottom is likely still going to be wet. Try punching a few more holes in the sides and up the temp in the room to about 28C and keep the humidity about 65%. Just leave them be until they start showing signs of new growth, assuming they recover.

Judging by their size and how long they have been in the pots they may not recover, but time will tell. As long as they are getting enough FULL spectrum light they still have a chance.
 
Good transplant now don't overwater don't feed let them rest and dig the roots in. If soil is too dry just give little water circle around the outer leaf canopy don't water the whole pot, allow the roots to search for it. Got it? Less is more at this point.
 
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