Yellow System
# Day-5 (Higgs Boson Haze Cuttings)
Water Changed- Day- 5
pH- 6.00
T-5 (HO) Sun Blaster Nano-Tech (6400 K)
Humidity Dome- In Place
Medium- Rapid Rooters
Cloning Gel/Powder- Root Tec (Gel)
Foliar spray CX Clone Start, Kelp & Yucca Root
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Blue System (6/2, 3-times a day)
# Day-6: Silver Haze Clones (x2) (Repeating Day-1 Until they can establish them under LED lighting)
Water Changed- Day- 6
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
(P-300, Platinum LED) VEG ON = 6-Point LED WARM Bulb
Got the Sump Tanks air pump turned back on again, after I had to turn it off because of the Yucca Root (SledgeHammer by Fox Farm) I had to add, which foamed up everything. Overall the two plants are looking good, they do appear as if they are starting to root in good and starting to take off.
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Red System (6/2 light schedule 3-times a day)
# Day-39 Higgs Boson Haze (Seedling) & Silver Haze (Clone)
Water Changed- Day- 1
System Water Level- Full
pH- 0.00
PPM's- 000
Water Temp- 66.7
Air Temp - 81.5
RH- 55.0
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED (#1 P-450, Platinum LED) = *VEG ON*
Spent some time getting the new air pump connected up to the 12-air stones and getting everything set up to start working as it is intended, one of the air stones needed to be replaced after it wouldn't allow air movement, replacing it really increased the air flow. While working on this the water pump begin sucking air, and it became apparent an EMERGENCY water change was needed to repair the "drip" water leak at the Red Heater, repaired with the Orange RTV, at it holds up the UC Roots (Diluted Hydrochloric Acid). To make the water change work in the ways it needs to work, I had to fill FOUR OF THE SIX Plant Tubs, and the Red Sump (ONLY). Added 30-ml of pH Down to the Red Sump, for when the water is to temp and I can turn the pump back on, the PPM's are 180 and the pH is 2.50. Clearly the pH Down adds to the PPM's, as I sucked everything out of the tanks and tubs, and even when filling the PPM's never spiked until after the pH Down.
Removed a few leaves which where turning yellow and spotted, looked to be more of a nutrient issue today over anything else, Hoping to flip the plants to Bloom just as soon as the water temp comes up... but questioning if that is the best decision and so I guess at the last minute I'll just have to decide based off what I think is best in that moment.
# Day-5 (Higgs Boson Haze Cuttings)
Water Changed- Day- 5
pH- 6.00
T-5 (HO) Sun Blaster Nano-Tech (6400 K)
Humidity Dome- In Place
Medium- Rapid Rooters
Cloning Gel/Powder- Root Tec (Gel)
Foliar spray CX Clone Start, Kelp & Yucca Root
-----------------------------------------
Blue System (6/2, 3-times a day)
# Day-6: Silver Haze Clones (x2) (Repeating Day-1 Until they can establish them under LED lighting)
Water Changed- Day- 6
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
(P-300, Platinum LED) VEG ON = 6-Point LED WARM Bulb
Got the Sump Tanks air pump turned back on again, after I had to turn it off because of the Yucca Root (SledgeHammer by Fox Farm) I had to add, which foamed up everything. Overall the two plants are looking good, they do appear as if they are starting to root in good and starting to take off.
-----------------------------------------
Red System (6/2 light schedule 3-times a day)
# Day-39 Higgs Boson Haze (Seedling) & Silver Haze (Clone)
Water Changed- Day- 1
System Water Level- Full
pH- 0.00
PPM's- 000
Water Temp- 66.7
Air Temp - 81.5
RH- 55.0
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED (#1 P-450, Platinum LED) = *VEG ON*
Spent some time getting the new air pump connected up to the 12-air stones and getting everything set up to start working as it is intended, one of the air stones needed to be replaced after it wouldn't allow air movement, replacing it really increased the air flow. While working on this the water pump begin sucking air, and it became apparent an EMERGENCY water change was needed to repair the "drip" water leak at the Red Heater, repaired with the Orange RTV, at it holds up the UC Roots (Diluted Hydrochloric Acid). To make the water change work in the ways it needs to work, I had to fill FOUR OF THE SIX Plant Tubs, and the Red Sump (ONLY). Added 30-ml of pH Down to the Red Sump, for when the water is to temp and I can turn the pump back on, the PPM's are 180 and the pH is 2.50. Clearly the pH Down adds to the PPM's, as I sucked everything out of the tanks and tubs, and even when filling the PPM's never spiked until after the pH Down.
Removed a few leaves which where turning yellow and spotted, looked to be more of a nutrient issue today over anything else, Hoping to flip the plants to Bloom just as soon as the water temp comes up... but questioning if that is the best decision and so I guess at the last minute I'll just have to decide based off what I think is best in that moment.
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