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Just following up from yesterday. I mixed 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) of dynagro bloom into one gallon of 6.8 ph water. and gave each plant half. was that enough? should I give them another half gallon same measurements tomorrow?
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For a while I've been using measuring spoons for nute and ph dosages and using ph strips for testing. Now I have proper equipment,Originally posted by Rootsruler View PostPre-pHed? You do realize that pHed water left sitting in a container for more than 12 hrs will change pH right? Pre pHing is not necessary. pH once you have all your inputs in the water.
Ok guess ill stop doing that.
What measuring equipment did you get? I always encourage people to pick up a BlueLab Growers Toolbox for meters. The kit contains both pH and EC/PPM meters with multiple calibration pouches of water for both meters. Aptera makes a good pH meter too.
ML droppers
a kit with electronic ph and PPM meters with these ph adjusting packets.
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Pre-pHed? You do realize that pHed water left sitting in a container for more than 12 hrs will change pH right? Pre pHing is not necessary. pH once you have all your inputs in the water.
What measuring equipment did you get? I always encourage people to pick up a BlueLab Growers Toolbox for meters. The kit contains both pH and EC/PPM meters with multiple calibration pouches of water for both meters. Aptera makes a good pH meter too.
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Browning tips that were curling upward and yeah they were crispyOriginally posted by Rootsruler View Post
Curled up as in browning tips or leaf tips pointing down? I'm assuming crispy tips since you mentioned nute burn.
Correct. That's not flushing that's tapering.
PPM Equipment? What have you been using for metering your solutions?
"Dump my water"? Are you running a separate RDWC grow?
I like to use this chart from Aptus to let me know when I need to change feed ratios for the phase the plant is in....this applies to photoperiod plants. Not sure if Auto follows the same path.
I've been using PH testing strips for the water, a 3-1 spike for soil, and ml droppers for measuring the nutrients pergallon
And no in not running and RDWC grow. I have a seven gallon water container with pre ph'ed water, and two-1 gallon jugs of nutes that I mixed last week. It's all worked up until now. But I'm dumping it all and starting over using the more precise measuring equipment
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Looks like a dieing plant. Why did you allow all the root mass on top of the soil? This the same plant you posted from 9-5? Wow she uprooted itself or ???
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Curled up as in browning tips or leaf tips pointing down? I'm assuming crispy tips since you mentioned nute burn.Originally posted by Atriax View Post
That's the thing I don't think I actually have to flush. And I don't think I even flushed after all. Just stopped giving it nutrients hut the same amount of ph'ed water. The whole thing started because I noticed the auto started getting the curled up tips signifying nutrient burn and thought that I had overdone it on a nutrient batch. So today I'm waiting for my ppm equipment to come in then I'm going to dump my water and mixes and start over with giving them nutes again
Correct. That's not flushing that's tapering.
PPM Equipment? What have you been using for metering your solutions?
"Dump my water"? Are you running a separate RDWC grow?
I like to use this chart from Aptus to let me know when I need to change feed ratios for the phase the plant is in....this applies to photoperiod plants. Not sure if Auto follows the same path.
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Need more info. Is it all over or just the bottom leaves? Water/sun leaves?
I noticed your roots are out of soil. Hopefully you're watering correctly and aren't just creating a mudhole when you water.
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That's the thing I don't think I actually have to flush. And I don't think I even flushed after all. Just stopped giving it nutrients hut the same amount of ph'ed water. The whole thing started because I noticed the auto started getting the curled up tips signifying nutrient burn and thought that I had overdone it on a nutrient batch. So today I'm waiting for my ppm equipment to come in then I'm going to dump my water and mixes and start over with giving them nutes againOriginally posted by Rootsruler View PostFlushing, IMO, is pure broscience. Same with the whole " leave 'em in the dark for a set period". The ONLY time flushing is appropriate is as a last resort to your having flooded the rhizosphere with toxic levels of nutrient or pH in an attempt to reset the media/root relationship. Of course the fact that you have to flush at all is a discussion in itself but that's a whole other topic.
Tapering, which I define as laddering down the PPM's of your feed ratios, is a good way of removing ions already in the plant to achieve a smoother, tastier hit anecdotally speaking. Personally, I haven't noticed a difference but I taper more for peace of mind than anything tactile.
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Flushing, IMO, is pure broscience. Same with the whole " leave 'em in the dark for a set period". The ONLY time flushing is appropriate is as a last resort to your having flooded the rhizosphere with toxic levels of nutrient or pH in an attempt to reset the media/root relationship. Of course the fact that you have to flush at all is a discussion in itself but that's a whole other topic.
Tapering, which I define as laddering down the PPM's of your feed ratios, is a good way of removing ions already in the plant to achieve a smoother, tastier hit anecdotally speaking. Personally, I haven't noticed a difference but I taper more for peace of mind than anything tactile.
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>Depends what you like and what your growing...getting mine to full amber is a tough slog too. I prefer mostly whites and just a few ambers...last grow were pretty much all whites.
OK looks like I messed up my terminology. The hairs are almost all brown on my photoperiod. Not the trichomes. And the hairs on my auto are about 30% brown now
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