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[GhettoStyle]

That's my previous question! I was creating a topic on the forum when the top leaves were swirling, but I figured it was because of the light, high temperature and low humidity!

https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/growing-community/646531-hello-friends-help-me-figure-it-out

[YYCannabis]

I use 5 gallon buckets and my nute strength for a plant that age would be around 1200ppm (500 scale). I use a different brand from you, but for most DWC nutes, the measurable ppm should be the same.

She’s starving. Use a clean bucket, or make sure her bucket is clean inside….make a fresh batch of water and nutes for her following the feed schedule i posted to you earlier. Make sure the water level in the bucket is just below the basket, maybe a 1/2” or so. Make sure your airstone is pumping out lots of bubbles.

The sooner you get it done, the sooner she recovers.

And pluck off those large leaves that are yellow and dead. The plant is wasting energy trying to heal those leaves. Getting rid of those leaves will help the plant put energy where it’s needed.

[GhettoStyle]

OK, I'll replace the solution completely! You say that at this stage you are making 1200 PPM, the table that you sent earlier indicates 0.9 - 1.1 EC, then how much do I need to do? And yet I can't see a change in the solution level, I can't see a change in PPM, because if there are any changes, they are so small that I don't notice them! But what I notice every day is how the pH drops!!!! Is the pH falling due to a lack of fertilizers?

[Bluey]

I run a couple of aeroponics setu0s and only noticed a drop when the bucket was so full of roots it was a mess. Likely it dropped though because I fell over the air pump cord or juts were blocked. It always ris4s apart from that one time

[YYCannabis]

If your pH is dropping, then it’s probably due to the roots not up taking any nutes and the water is acidifying. When you do a FULL WATER CHANGE be sure to look at the waste water to see if there is and small debris in the water. If there is, then it’s a sign that the secondary roots were shedding micro-roots. That debris in the water is rotting and causing bacterial problems and therefore causing pH problems. Also the loss of micro-roots means that the roots damaged and can’t uptake.

Previously, I recommended using line two of the grow guide. Now i would suggest using line one at the upper end of the measured amounts. The roots will need a lower ec/ppm until they can heal and try to regenerate.

Final Recommendation (Action Plan)
Step 1: Full System Reset
- Drain and clean the bucket.
- Refill with fresh tap water plus 100–150 ppm CalMag, then add base nutrients.
- Set pH to 5.8 and only adjust if it drops below 5.3 or rises above 6.3.

Step 2: Daily Monitoring (and i cannot emphasize this enough)
- **Track these daily and write them down:**
- Water level – is it dropping?
- pH – is it trending up or down?
- EC/PPM – rising means underfeeding; falling means the plant is feeding.

Step 3: Don’t Increase PPM Yet
- Stay at the ppm until the plant starts drinking and pH stabilizes.
- Once stable, watch the new growth. If it’s healthily growing, then do a water change about 5 days after healthy growth.

Step 4: Remove Dead Leaves
- Cut off all fully yellowed or crispy leaves—they’re wasting the plant’s energy.


This is one of the benefits of doing DWC is that you can instantly resolve a lot of issue with a fresh water change in just a few minutes.

[GhettoStyle]

There is no debris from the roots in the bucket! I have already replaced the solution, added 100 ppm cal-mag and 100 ppm fertilizer, the total ppm came out 300! so the pH drops after that too! I think it has to do with fertilizers!because of them, it looks like the pH drops and the plant itself lowers it, but I don't understand what needs to be added more fertilizers?

[GhettoStyle]

Today I changed it again, added 100 cal-mag and the nuts all came out at 460 PPM.

[Bluey]

The pH will drop if the calmag is not compatible with your base nutes. It will go off and after 7 days stink. Your plants will die if that is the case and you don't get onto it.

Are they compatible?

[GhettoStyle]

my Cal-Mag BAC 2.0 it is compatible with my fertilizers Canna Aqua Vega
There had never been such a drop in pH before! maybe I accidentally changed something!
And which fertilizers would you recommend Canna or BAC or some others?

[GhettoStyle]

Probably compatible! It seems like Cal-Mag should be compatible with third-party manufacturers! I am using Cal-Mag BAC 2.0
What do you think about Canna and BAC fertilizers?

[Bluey]

I know nothing about any of the ferts or suppliments you are using...zip

[GhettoStyle]

[GhettoStyle]

I read about the temperature of the solution! That's why I bought myself a water cooler! in the articles, everyone writes that the temperature of the raster should be 20-21C and that I am advised 25C, so this is already the limit of another couple degrees and root rot! That's what you're advising me! Yes?

[Rootsruler]

I understand that weed advice is like assholes. Everybodys got one but my post advice comes from people that I have been able to verify are knowledgeable, experienced growers. Many are licensed operators with staff botanists so I give their advice more creedence than I would someone that I have not been able to verify.

The temp advice I gave comes from a RDWC expert out of Canada that is a licensed operator. We were discussing how water temperature affects oxygen levels in the feed solution and someone in the discussion mentioned that they were taught that water temps in RDWC should be on the cooler side, around 68°, because cooler water will hold more oxygen molecules. My Canadian RDWC guy commented that, while theoretically this is true, oxygen levels in water will dissipate quickly trying to equalize with the existing air pressure in the air so oxygenating, while it does help, isn't quite as effective as some think. He actually tested this and his results were as he stated. Yes the water had a higher concentration of dissolved O² but it was around 2% - 3% higher than normal standing water.
He also commented on how applying too much air into the chamber will affect EC and pH levels. This is why he says that while oxygenating your water with an airstone is a good idea it's not providing as much O² as, say, fogponics where the roots are suspended in air and being misted constantly rather than the roots sitting in water relying on the O² levels in the water. He said that he too was taught that cooler waters meant more oxygenation but he said he experimented with higher res temps and saw no detrimental side effects in regard to plant performance. He reported that he found increased growth with higher air and root temps. His only comment was that with the higher res and room temps you wanted to keep an eye on crown rot but he said that he's only experienced it once and he felt that it came from another source rather than res temps.

I'm a dirt farmer with just enough DWC grows under my belt to be dangerous but the advice applies across the board. Laboratories have confirmed that the ideal leaf temps for photosynthesis are 77°/25C in almost all plant species. The only time that would change was if the plant originated in an extreme weather area where the genetics have adjusted to the climate but for cannabis all the landrace cultivars that have been discovered have been found in a fairly tight grow zone so, for the most part, cannabis knowledge can be used almost across the board when growing it.

If you are still in doubt look to CO² growers. They typically grow in temps hovering from 85° to 95°. Higher temps faster growth as long as the rest of the stats are in range.

[GhettoStyle]

Sorry! But you misunderstood me, I was referring to the water temperature in the DWC! And you're talking about the air temperature! Yes, I keep the air temperature in the tent at 25-27 C and the water temperature at 20-21 C.