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Someone might post a timelapse video for you so you can see how plants do that thing with the leaves. They look like they're trying to fly.
I haven't said it so I'm going to say it because I've wanted to say it and I won't bring it up again. Upsize those pots!
I feel better.C'mon, mule!
Coco/perlite
3x3x6
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Originally posted by Gingerbeard View PostSomeone might post a timelapse video for you so you can see how plants do that thing with the leaves. They look like they're trying to fly.
I haven't said it so I'm going to say it because I've wanted to say it and I won't bring it up again. Upsize those pots!
I feel better.
The last time I tried this (and the one and only time) I had a hard time getting the root ball out of the pot. I read up on it since then and discovered that one of my mistakes was that I didn’t water the plant the day before. The soil was too dry. (I mistakenly thought you wanted it dry, but apparently not 3 days worth.) I do have a flexible piece of metal that I can run around the outside of the root ball and inside the pot, so I think I got that right.
Do you have any other advice for extracting a root ball from a flower pot?Last edited by Brwnthmb; 10-04-2024, 11:20 AM.
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Gingerbeard
I see. And it may interest you to know that I’m using a violin separation tool. A fiddle is about 8-1/2” wide. I do repair occasionally and so I have a tool on hand that is 9” long (plus the handle) and about 1” wide, that works real well for going down inside the wall of a flower pot.
Edit: PS. I doubt it is called a violin separation tool. In fact that tool would be short as it need not go all the way across. I don’t remember what this tool is called but if you are looking in luthier tools you can find it.Last edited by Brwnthmb; 10-04-2024, 02:50 PM.
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I was going to call it a cake icing knife.
My luthier tools are out getting a luth job.
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Perfect blade. It is the bigger plant in post 16 I was referring to.
Don't repot post 19, yet.
That root ball will be small and airy and has not had a chance to ball-up, if you will.
Repotting is usually done when the roots have had a chance to fill the pot and the drip line has reached the edge of the pot. They hold together much better and do not stress the roots as much.
You are losing no root space keeping that plant in that pot, right now. Give it a bit.Last edited by Gingerbeard; 10-04-2024, 03:57 PM.C'mon, mule!
Coco/perlite
3x3x6
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Originally posted by Gingerbeard View PostPerfect blade. It is the bigger plant in post 16 I was referring to.
Don't repot post 19, yet.
That root ball will be small and airy and has not had a chance to ball-up, if you will.
Repotting is usually done when the roots have had a chance to fill the pot and the drip line has reached the edge of the pot. They hold together much better and do not stress the roots as much.
You are losing no root space keeping that plant in that pot, right now. Give it a bit.
I was afraid you were referring to my prize plant in the 10” pot. The last prize plant I had is not one anymore due to repotting.
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Gingerbeard
My prize pot is in the upper right corner in an 8” pot. I lost at least two bottom branches during repotting into a 3 gallon fabric pot. It’s struggling but it did survive. I just took its picture. 10pm bedtime.
Last edited by Brwnthmb; 10-04-2024, 09:30 PM.
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PH =7.2
3 gallon pot
white widow
transplanted into larger pot on 9/16
250ml water at center (under canopy) on 9/25
400ml on 10/1
600ml on 10/3
-the chart says that the yellow leaf tips can be a watering problem but doesn’t say which way.
- when I test the soil it is dry down to my fingertip so it’s time to water but I don’t want to water at night. I tested this morning aand I guess I should’ve watered but I’m scared of watering too much.
- does this look like a simple case of too little water? my other plants are in the same soil and watered the same but are a different variety. Does white widow’s leaf tips turn yellow for a particular reason?
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Plant Dr says Light or Nutrient burn causes yellow leaf tips
Light bleaching is similar to bleached hair from spending ample time under the sun. Read for more information on how to prevent and solve light bleaching.
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I trimmed off the damaged parts of leaves yesterday, following an article on potted plants. Nutrient burn or light burn don’t fit with this plant and I am hoping that this problem is not continuing. With the yellow led material gone I can tell much easier.
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That’s good, because I just changed my timer to 12/12, from 16/8.
Something else along those same lines; the equinox is around September 22, and the nights continue to get longer after this. Based on that;
Do all cannabis strains flower at 12 hours darkness (or less)? Or is 12 hours darkness the minimum for flowering and some strains need more than 12 hours darkness?
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It's kind of a baseline. At some point, less light will start flowering. But less light means less growing. So, you could go energy saver and do less light, but you would get less plant. You could do more light, but it not be enough darkness and run into revegging issues.
Using the more light, more plant principle, autos can grow 18/6 from seed to weed which makes for better auto weed than 12/12 auto weed.
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I just set my timer to 12/12 for these two. (Obviously the one on the right is more full than the one on the left.) The left one was topped later and I haven’t tried LST on either. But, Do you think that I could gain more (enough to make it worth it) to LST the left hand plant, keeping it in vegetative for a while longer?
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