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    first grow, yellowing/browning on leaves of two different plants

    Hey all, first time grower here! Gonna try to take you on a quick summary of my grow so far so you know where I'm at and give an idea of what I'm thinking. Hopefully this helps.

    Medium: 100% Fox Farm Happy Frog
    pH: Tap water tested at 8, watered the pots and tested runoff and it was at 6.5, so I felt good about not doing anything else for a while. From my learning and research, my understanding was don't worry about pH with soil until there's a problem.
    Lights: 20/4 schedule, 250w Migro Aray 4. These were an issue at the start because I was trying to go through my smart controller but that caused a flicker that I didn't notice or correct until about day 3-5 after sprout. a couple of the bunch looked to be stretching, eventually got lights in a decent place. We are now at day 20-22, lights are at 60% and sitting 14in from the top of the highest plant. I do not have a par meter or other light tester but I don't believe light to be an issue here, though it was at first.
    Seeds: Mephisto Genetics - these are all autoflowers. There are four in the bunch, but the two with the problems are Gold Glue (yellowing leaves) and 3wok OG (brown spots on leaves). Planted on 4/30 and all sprouted within a week

    Started grow using the method outlined here: https://www.growweedeasy.com/easiest...-seeds-in-soil
    At first I did not have the pots elevated with much air flow to the bottom, and I know this caused some difficulty with overwatering. I lost one obviously stunted plant already, so now I'm very paranoid about overwatering, but I think the rest are in decent shape. At this point, I am roughly following the watering schedule described here, though also watering slightly less because I am using 3gal pots instead of 5gal: https://www.growweedeasy.com/how-to-...g-in-a-big-pot
    Last watering was on 5/21 (day 17/18), 3 cups of water to everyone, with nutes.

    This is where I think I messed up:
    Nutes: I gave 1/4 strength FF Grow Big at day 12 (5/15) to 3wok OG and Gold Glue, since these were starting to enter vegetative state (I read a lot about "when does vegetative stage start" and landed on "when 5 and 7 pronged leaves start showing up." I'm starting to think my confidence in all this was misplaced and I went way too early. So, watering every 3 or 4 days, these plants got watered on 5/15 (~1.5 cups), 5/18 (~2 cups), and 5/21 (3 cups) with 1/4 strength Grow Big.
    ALSO, in the days following starting to give them nutes, I realized my humidity was probably too high (kept around 75-80 RH since the grow start since I read 75-80 was good for seedlings, but should be dropped as time goes on.) So, on 5/20, I got a dehumidifier and the humidity dropped to 55-60 RH within the day and has stayed around there since. Not sure if this is pertinent info, but a big shift in environment just days before these issues started showing up seems like a potential cause.

    My plan of attack:
    First of all, I'm asking everywhere I can think of for help. I have ordered FF Cultivation Nation pH Down (I didn't know if I could get just any pH Down, so I thought it safe to buy FF, was this unnecessary?). From my internet research, I'm thinking that if I drop the pH of my tap water to an acceptable 6.5, and then water the plants, this should help flush and reset and clear things up. From my limited knowledge, I know that a lot of things can be fixed with Cal Mag, which I have also ordered and will have on standby. Would it be a good idea to add Cal Mag in when I attempt to flush, or just flush with pH'd water?

    OR OR, am I going about this all wrong? Is there some better way to fix this or diagnose this?
    Any help would be appreciated. And if there is any additional information I can give, please let me know.
    Thanks in advance everyone <3
    Attached Files

    #2
    I don't grow in that medium but I'm guessing you don't need to feed anything but water for the first few weeks.

    I'd lower your pH input so it is within range for soil medium. Run off pH measurements cannot be relied upon.

    Last pic your plants look tired and perhaps overwatered. Black plastic pots in a good environment typically require watering every 5 to 7 days but it varies of course.

    Download a smartphone app called PPFD Meter & Photone. Read up on how to calibrate it and make sure your plants are getting the correct DLI for their stage of growth. If the last pic was taken late in the day cycle you may be giving them too much light as they are tired and may have already taken all the light they can use in a day.

    You have a couple of deficiencies going on but minor so don't add nutes to correct it. The change in pH, light intensity & duration, & make sure temps and humidity are in range, say 24⁰C and 65%RH, may correct that issue.
    Flower Room: 11' x 7' x 7.5'H, 480w AC, 13gal/day dehumidifier, 1.5gal ultrasonic humidifier, 60gal (27gal usable) nute tank, 16" pedestal fan & 18" wall fan. Lighting and climate automated. Hand watering.
    Veg Cupboards: ​​​​​​Two 4x2x6H cupboards. SF2000 Evo in one SF7000 in other. Climate controlled and automated. Hand watering
    Aeroponics Low Pressure Bucket: 20W LED. 5 clones & 20W LED 11 clones
    Lights: Mars Hydro FC-E1200W, SF-7000, SF-2000 evo in flower room.
    Medium: Coco/perlite, 7.2gal pots, no drains
    Current Grow: ​​​5 x Photos Franklin's Orange Zkittles x Sour Diesel in flower room, 3 Franklin's White Widow x Sour Diesel Clones, 13 x Orange ZkittleZ x Sour Diesel clones in Aeroponics buckets x 2.
    Last Grow: A mix

    Comment


    • Bluey
      Bluey commented
      Editing a comment
      Given you are using tap water if you check its EC you may find it is already high in trace elements so you may never need calmag.

      I'd wait until you have everything else sorted first before adding that or anything else nute ir suppliment related.

      Modern LED's when used at too high an intensity will cause unexplained nute deficiency symptoms in your leaves

    • Rootsruler
      Rootsruler commented
      Editing a comment
      Agree with Bluey. Do those first and they'll probably remedy the other issues.

    #3
    Christ, you got a lot going on for first a grow. That's your problem. KISS. (Keep it simple stupid). And that's not.a jab. I think your over complicating things. First, with fabric pots you can't over water. It impossible with fabric pots. Let me tell you how to water, and this is what I do. Water a bit, stop. Water a bit, stop. Keep doing that with like 5 minute breaks and wait till you just see water come out the bottom. Ok, so now the soil is saturated. Now wait next day, and test with the tip of your finger. If you go 1-1/2 knuckle deep (sounds sexy lol) if it's dry, then water again a little at a time till water comes out the bottom. Repeat. Use your sense of feel and not Jedi powers to judge when to Water. It's fool proof. Trust me, scheduling your watering instead of testing it is recipe for disaster. I'm speaking from experience.

    The only reason you drop humidity is to prevent bud rot. 75% humidity is just fine for flowering IF you have decent air flow. The reason people get paranoid about humidity during flowering is lack of proper air flow plus dense flowers plus high humidity could be a bad combo. As long as you have a good source of fresh air, mold and baddies have a hard time getting established. Fresh air is the key to prevent rot.

    Lay off the nutes. If Fox Farm soil is so good it should take you the whole way. Nutes are not needed the last 3-4 weeks of flowering. This early in your grow experience your just shooting yourself in the foot. Your just doing so much guessing. So, let's dial it down a bit.

    14" at that light level might be too close. I looked up your light and minimum hanging height is 12". Your like as close as you can get to the top of your plants with that light. Id check PPFD and canopy level temp. Heat could be a factor. High humidity being bad during flowering is another myth like swallowing gum will last 7 years in your stomach, or driving with the light on in your car you'll get pulled over. Just not true. If you have that high of humidity, just pump up the air flow for good measure. I visit other sites and I'm seeing 70/70 being used A LOT. Not 70/50. So don't fret humidity. Low RH (below 60%) and stomatas will close leaving c02 not being used.

    Comment


    • Rootsruler
      Rootsruler commented
      Editing a comment
      Bluey Are you referring to the main part of the grow being mid veg to late flower? In that period I've found running at 55% - 60% is optimal. The levels you are talking about I drop to in the last 3- 4 weeks of flower.

    • Bluey
      Bluey commented
      Editing a comment
      Mid to late flower, not veg. Veg I run 55 to 65 ish, same as you.

      I only run super low RH if I can keep temps down so VPD is stable and not too high. I dont go lower than 40. When I say keep temps down I'm talking air temps in the room, not temps under the lights. Measuring air temps under the lights is not a great idea, unless you have a thermal camera on the buds. Ideal air temps are in the vicinity of 22⁰C late in flower which most of us cannot achieve and yes that is the last 3 to 4 weeks of flower. Low temps combined with low RH = best yields and potency.

      Recent lab testing will confirm the above numbers if you can get your hands on the research paper...not sure if it's been made public yet but it will be. Some interesting research going on and some really good data coming out of the USA on this.

    • Rootsruler
      Rootsruler commented
      Editing a comment
      Got it!!

    #4
    It's up to you. I don't stress over it.


    Comment


      #5
      I'm at 65% rh 65f and my vpd is .81 right now and I'm fine with that. I'm within 3 weeks of finishing.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Radeon; 05-26-2024, 10:35 AM.

      Comment


        #6
        Just Wow. I agree with everyone about keeping it simple. After examining the photos, I can tell you there is definitely a pH problem. My experience: If the run off is low, flush once with pH 7 water. Wait for the top inch to dry out. Then, keep watering with plain water that is pH corrected to 6.8. Keep using plain water that is pH corrected until the whole leaf starts to get a little pale lime looking. Now test the run off, it should be corrected unless something else is wrong. I would then start to add 1/4 strength nutes, and remember that nutes bring the water pH down. So, add all you nutes, stir it up, wait a few minutes, test the nute water pH and adjust to 6.8. once everything is stable, you can vary the pH between 6 and 7 for soil. "one time I had a plant that went sour, thought i was doing everything right. a quick runoff test showed a soil pH of 4.2! I immediately flushed with 7.0 water and then sprinkled two tablespoons of baking soda on the top soil and watered it in with pH 7.0. did that for three days until my runoff reached 5.5 pH. I had to correct the soil, lift the lights to 25 inches and dimmed the light as low as it would go for three days. new growth started to look normal again so i added 1/4 nutes, went 18inch on the light, and eased the light up to full power over the three days. the plant got happy and still gave up 2 ounce of top shelf."

        Comment


          #7
          I don't know. Looked at photos again and the bottom leaves look straight and stiff, the tops looked wilted. That looks like a temp problem at top. Getting cooked. If it was PH I think the whole plant would be suffering. I don't mess with ph so I don't know.

          That oscillating fan looks suspect too. Might be set too high and causing wind burn.

          See that plant in the pic that's in the back right corner, it's not wilting at top. The ones closer to the fan are wilting.

          Comment


            #8
            Exposure to too much breeze from the fan can affect the cannabis leaves to start to curl and "claw." Learn about wind burn and how to prevent it.

            Comment


              #9
              But I've only grown weed 2 times, Once successful all the way so maybe listen to those that have more experience.Im just a noob...... my first grow was early 2023.My current grow is my third, second successful. These guys with 20 years growing could probably help you out more than me. I'm just trying to do my best to help....if I'm wrong then it's my lack of experience. Peace......
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #10
                You can use lemon juice to drop the pH.

                It will vary but 4 or 5 drops in a gallon should bring it down from 8 to 7 easily
                Flower Room: 11' x 7' x 7.5'H, 480w AC, 13gal/day dehumidifier, 1.5gal ultrasonic humidifier, 60gal (27gal usable) nute tank, 16" pedestal fan & 18" wall fan. Lighting and climate automated. Hand watering.
                Veg Cupboards: ​​​​​​Two 4x2x6H cupboards. SF2000 Evo in one SF7000 in other. Climate controlled and automated. Hand watering
                Aeroponics Low Pressure Bucket: 20W LED. 5 clones & 20W LED 11 clones
                Lights: Mars Hydro FC-E1200W, SF-7000, SF-2000 evo in flower room.
                Medium: Coco/perlite, 7.2gal pots, no drains
                Current Grow: ​​​5 x Photos Franklin's Orange Zkittles x Sour Diesel in flower room, 3 Franklin's White Widow x Sour Diesel Clones, 13 x Orange ZkittleZ x Sour Diesel clones in Aeroponics buckets x 2.
                Last Grow: A mix

                Comment

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