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    #16
    Ckbrew The short answer is Enzymes. But here is a good read on them.Enzymes and Functions

    by Jim Bennett June 11, 2020
    This is a very partial list of the enzymes found in malted grains - less than 3% of the total count actually.

    This subset that I selected have a direct impact when we apply them to our garden soils and equally important when added to our vermiculture process.

    In the vermiculture discussion, these specific enzymes accelerate the reproduction of our worm colonies and as well as reducing the time required to turn our agricultural wastes into humus.

    Amylase (/ˈæmɪleɪz/) is an enzyme that catalyses the hydrolysis of starch (Latin amylum) into sugars. Amylase is present in the saliva of humans and some other mammals, where it begins the chemical process of digestion. Foods that contain large amounts of starch but little sugar, such as rice and potatoes, may acquire a slightly sweet taste as they are chewed because amylase degrades some of their starch into sugar. The pancreas and salivary gland make amylase (alpha amylase) to hydrolyse dietary starch into disaccharides and trisaccharides which are converted by other enzymes to glucose to supply the body with energy. Plants and some bacteria also produce amylase. Specific amylase proteins are designated by different Greek letters. All amylases are glycoside hydrolases and act on α-1,4-glycosidic bonds.

    Arylsulfatase catalyzes the desulfation of 3-O-sulfogalactosyl residues in glycosphingolipids. The enzyme activity requires the presence of saposin B as an activator. The ARSA gene maps to chromosome 22 at the end terminus and encodes a 507-amino-acid precursor protein that undergoes post-translational processing. In addition to N-linked glycosylation required for lysosomal sorting through the mannose-6 phosphate receptor pathway, there is a unique oxidation that occurs for eukaryotic sulfatases. In human arylsulfatase A, a formylglycine residue is found in place of cysteine 69 and is due to the oxidation of a thiol group to an aldehyde. In addition to sulfatide, arylsulfatase A will cleave sulfate groups from other naturally occurring glycosphingolipids including lactosylceramide-3-sulfate and psychosine sulfate.

    Beta-glucosidase is an enzyme that catalyzes the hydrolysis of the glycosidic bonds to terminal non-reducing residues in beta-D-glucosides and oligosaccharides, with release of glucose.[2]

    Synonyms, derivatives, and related enzymes include gentiobiase, cellobiase, emulsin,elaterase, aryl-beta-glucosidase, beta-D-glucosidase, beta-glucoside glucohydrolase, arbutinase, amygdalinase, p-nitrophenyl beta-glucosidase, primeverosidase, amygdalase, linamarase, salicilinase, and beta-1,6-glucosidase.

    Cellulose is an organic compound, a polysaccharide consisting of a linear chain of several hundred to many thousands of β(1→4) linked D-glucose units.Cellulose is an important structural component of the primary cell wall of green plants, many forms of algae and the oomycetes. Some species of bacteria secrete it to form biofilms.

    Cellulose is the most abundant organic polymer on Earth. The cellulose content of cotton fiber is 90%, that of wood is 40–50%, and that of dried hemp is approximately 57%.

    Chitinases (chitodextrinase, 1,4-beta-poly-N-acetylglucosaminidase, poly-beta-glucosaminidase, beta-1,4-poly-N-acetyl glucosamidinase, poly[1,4-(N-acetyl-beta-D-glucosaminide)] glycanohydrolase, (1->4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy-beta-D-glucan glycanohydrolase) are hydrolytic enzymes that break down glycosidic bonds in chitin.[1]

    As chitin is a component of the cell walls of fungi and exoskeletal elements of some animals (including mollusks and arthropods), chitinases are generally found in organisms that either need to reshape their own chitin[2] or dissolve and digest the chitin of fungi or animals.

    Dehydrogenase (also called DH or DHase in the literature) is an enzyme belonging to the group of oxidoreductases that oxidizes a substrate by reducing an electron acceptor, usually NAD+/NADP+ or a flavin coenzyme such as FAD or FMN.

    They also catalyze the reverse reaction, for instance alcohol dehydrogenase not only oxidizes ethanol to acetaldehyde in animals but also produces ethanol from acetaldehyde in yeast.

    Phosphatase is an enzyme that uses water to cleave a phosphoric acid monoester into a phosphate ion and an alcohol. Because a phosphatase enzyme catalyzes the hydrolysis of its substrate, it is a subcategory of hydrolases.

    Phosphatase enzymes are essential to many biological functions, because phosphorylation (e.g. by protein kinases) and dephosphorylation (by phosphatases) serve diverse roles in cellular regulation and signaling. Whereas phosphatases remove phosphate groups from molecules, kinases catalyze the transfer of phosphate groups to molecules from ATP. Together, kinases and phosphatases direct a form of post-translational modification that is essential to the cell's regulatory network.

    Phosphatase enzymes are not to be confused with phosphorylase enzymes, which catalyze the transfer of a phosphate group from hydrogen phosphate to an acceptor. Due to their prevalence in cellular regulation, phosphatases are an area of interest for pharmaceutical research.

    Protease (also called a peptidase or proteinase) is an enzyme that catalyzes (increases the rate of) proteolysis, the breakdown of proteins into smaller polypeptides or single amino acids.

    They do this by cleaving the peptide bonds within proteins by hydrolysis, a reaction where water breaks bonds. Proteases are involved in many biological functions, including digestion of ingested proteins, protein catabolism (breakdown of old proteins),and cell signalling.

    Without additional helping mechanisms, proteolysis would be very slow, taking hundreds of years. Proteases can be found in all forms of life and viruses. They have independently evolved multiple times, and different classes of protease can perform the same reaction by completely different catalytic mechanisms.

    Ureases (EC 3.5.1.5), functionally, belong to the superfamily of amidohydrolases and phosphotriesterases.[2] Ureases are found in numerous bacteria, fungi, algae, plants, and some invertebrates, as well as in soils, as a soil enzyme. They are nickel-containing metalloenzymes of high molecular weight.[3]

    These enzymes catalyze the hydrolysis of urea into carbon dioxide and ammonia:

    (NH2)2CO + H2O → CO2 + 2NH3
    The hydrolysis of urea occurs in two stages. In the first stage, ammonia and carbamate are produced. The carbamate spontaneously and rapidly hydrolyzes to ammonia and carbonic acid. Urease activity increases the pH of its environment as ammonia is produced, which is basic.

    Comment


    • Ckbrew
      Ckbrew commented
      Editing a comment
      The gift of malted barley keeps on giving. I used to buy it 60kg at a time in my beer brewing days. Had an entire brew pub style system in a 10 gallon scale.

    #17
    Quick update. City picker ladies are getting taller and bushy. Did a minor defoliation and they seem to have liked it. Also I have been filling 1/12 to 2 gallons of water every 2 days down into the reservoir. Will be cloning soon and will try to document how I doit with Aloe and kelp meal tea. These two plants have the hormones used in commercial cloning gels like(clonex) but it’s almost free if you have it at home or cheaper at least. I will post a bit on that later.

    Comment


      #18
      Young willow wood with green bark is super high in rooting hormones. Easy to make by just boiling them up for a tea. It keeps in the fridge for a month or so too. The corkscrew willow is the most potent one of all the different willows I have.

      Comment


        #19
        So I decided to clone the girls in the city picker and defoliate a bit heavy. This time around I’m going to leave the clones dipped in the aloe over night and tomorrow I will transfer into the rockwool cubes that are soaking in kelp meal water. Also made a small jar of hydrated kelp meal to water in the fresh 2 gallons of soil I added to the city picker because it wasn’t filled correctly I only had about 5 gallons. The ladies will need that soon since I’m flipping the switch tomorrow, will also top dress with fish bone meal and 1” of home made worm castings.

        Comment


        • UndergroundFarmer
          UndergroundFarmer commented
          Editing a comment
          They look good. I just finished up transplanting from 5 gallon pots to what Lowe's sells as "patio pickers" - the exact same product made by the same company that makes the earth boxes and city pickers in Pennsylvania. I bought eight of them - four each for two 4x4 tents! I'm starting off running only two plants per picker in a mix of Build-A-Soil 3.0 living soil and some homemade soil plus some very fresh worm castings with worms included straight from my worm box. How many plants can you run in one of those and take them to maturity?

        #20
        UndergroundFarmer wow sounds like you will be one happy grower come harvest. I think 2 plants or one really big one is what I would go with to keep the canopy manageable. Also the more you do the quicker you can fill the tent and flip to flower. I’m doing 6 in one city picker because I didn’t have a place to save my clones and figured I would grow them in my 2x2x5 and flip as soon as possible. Post some pictures of your set up. I’m going to upgrade soon myself and considering buying more city pickers vs a bed of soil for the convenience of moving them around if needed. Hoping for an 8x8 space. Check out this grower he grows nice big plants in city pickers. danner1620. Also of course the Buildasoil channel.

        Comment


        • UndergroundFarmer
          UndergroundFarmer commented
          Editing a comment
          I've been watching Jeremy for a while now! I'll be posting pics a little later tonight. It's funny - I went through a lot of time and expense over the last month or so trying to get the environment perfect for a bunch of stricken plants only to find that the real source of my misery was mites! It's just as well. Now that I know what the real issue was, I'm excited for the way the survivors are growing fast in their living soil and can't wait to harvest some worm-powered weed.

        #21
        Just an update. Buds are getting bigger. Middles of week 6. Smells like gas and lime with fruity tones. City pickers are on 12/12 for a few days now. I will only do 2 plants max next time instead of the 6.

        Comment


        #22
        Spicoli.!!!!!! Looking good.
        keeping it green with the soil thing
        love me some frosty autos
        braap
        BRAAPZAI https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...162-braaap-zai
        Mephisto run. yeah i know spellcheck https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...-memphisto-run
        the fruit basket https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...et-auto-runrun
        blue strawberries in a four assed galaxy https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...r-assed-galaxy

        Comment


          #23
          Figure I’d post this, This way I show how things can get out of control real quick. And how I deal with it. Anyways, I’m having a fungus gnat issue. For some reason I’m my 2x4 the back right hand corner pot is infested with gnats. Same pot or corner that I always have issues with. I think the air is stagnant back there so I added a small fan blowing down there straight to that corner and put out my yellow sticky traps. Also have fly traps by my lights work great for gnats. I did try knocking them back a bit with hydrogen peroxide and water 1 parts to 4. My wife used it last time and she liked the results so I had to try it.

          Comment


            #24
            Update. Fungus gnats are almost gone still a couple here and there. Knocking them back with water to hydrogen peroxide 1:4. Sticky traps and covered the whole pot with my worm castings which seems to have helped a lot. Castings will help with pest because they are full of chitin so does malted barley. Also a fan directly to the pot. Lack of ventilation in the back corner was the main issue. The clones are starting to shoot roots I checked yesterday. The city pickers I had to do a defoliation because they are getting big in the small 2x2. The front left corner is short and the back right corner is short didn’t realize it until I defoliated them yesterday. They are going thru 2 gallons of water every 2 to 3 days max. I top dressed them with worm castings as well. Plants all look happy to me.

            Comment


              #25
              I wonder if a large fine mesh bag over the entire pot and tired around the trunk would stop the gnats? You could still water over the top of it and it would get air.

              Comment


              • UndergroundFarmer
                UndergroundFarmer commented
                Editing a comment
                Earth boxes and pickers come with a mulch cover that will keep gnats from having a place to land on the soil. Trouble is, you can cut holes in for your plants but you have to do that starting out. It's just too messy to add them after you're into a grow.

              #26
              Week 8. Colas smelling good and trichs are mostly cloudy. No more fungus gnats. City pickers starting to show flowers and grew more than I thought they would. City pickers keeping the moisture levels ideal make the plants grow fast and big like hydro but without the magic bottles and all the extras. Clones are disappointing, only one has shown roots the others are no show it’s been more than 14 days now. First time showing how I clone and of course 10% rooting success lol. I think keeping the clones dipped in aloe over night wasn’t a good idea next time a quick dip and thats it as usual. Trial and error. Not giving up though I neeed at least one of my 6 sapphire scouts to root I love that strain. All gas with lemon tones reminds me of the OG Kush form early 2000 here in Cali. Plants look a bit lighter green. Can’t wait for harvest.

              Comment


                #27
                Have you run into any troubles checking water levels with a scrog net in place? I'm about to have to put one up. I've been considering making a dipstick or a floating indicator to judge when to add water instead of shining a light into the tube.
                Coconut Grove
                4x4 tent, Platinum LED P4-XML2, four Patio Pickers. Vegging Liberty Haze, Acapulco Gold, Lavender and Sweet Amnesia Haze.

                3x3 tent, Platinum P300 LED. Flowering two Tangies.

                Flower tent:
                4x4 tent, Platinum LED P4-XML2, four Patio Pickers. Vegging Super Lemon Haze, Durban Poison and two Tangie x Blueberry crosses.

                Nursery:
                32"x32" tent with Feit white LED. Vegging four Mother's Finest.

                Coco/Perlite/worm castings/mycorrhizae living soil mix.
                Down-To-Earth dry amendments. Gnarly Barley added weekly. Eisenia fetida.

                On deck: Winter indicas.

                Comment


                • Cali
                  Cali commented
                  Editing a comment
                  First time using a city picker in a tent. I left the tube right at the corner for easy access. A dipstick is not a bad idea, because having a Scrog net will get in the way depending how tall and how much you lollipop. I think next grow I will try without the net in the 2x4 and do a Scrog net on my city picker to spread a couple plants flat because they grow fast

                • UndergroundFarmer
                  UndergroundFarmer commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I may just rely on Cannabenders to flatten things out. I'll be defoliating and some other maintenance this Sunday, so that might be the way to go.

                #28
                UndergroundFarmer wnat if you add an extension to the pipes so they stand tall past the nets, that would be easy to access cheap solution and easy to do.

                Comment


                • UndergroundFarmer
                  UndergroundFarmer commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I've thought of that but then realized that it would be that much tougher to see what's at the bottom. I also considered getting a tall skinny funnel for when they need water. The only other way is to water until it's dripping on the floor. Maybe if there was a float valve small enough to work in that space I could make them water themselves. It would have to be done before adding soil and there would be no good way to repair it if Murphy came to visit after a grow was underway. Perhaps a clear indicator tube could be mounted like in some hydro setups. You could also use it to drain a picker in case the reservoir gets nasty.

                #29
                Week 9 basically just trying to figure out where I’m going to dry them so I can chop them up. All cloudy/milky. Was planning on drying in the same tent but the city pickers outgrew the 2x2 so I want to move it over to the 2x4. Plus I have clones and seedlings I started that I would like to put in the 2x2 soon. I have 2 tangerine dream from Barney’s farm, 2 freebie white widows from seeds man and 2 mazar from a fellow grower here. I won’t let these grow too big I just want to grow them out and choose a winner or two to clone and keep if any are worth it.

                Comment


                  #30
                  Doesn’t allow me to upload pictures. Just reads error loading pics? I’ll try later

                  Comment

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