Are these ready to switch to flowering?

[Ckbrew]

Just an FYI, looking at your tent, all the power cords are on the floor. Same place that water would go if there were a spill. I get a heavy gauge extension and feed it in from one of the small top ports. Plug in your power strip and zip tie it to the pole. From there, run your wires from above and use zip ties to keep everything in place. Remember, Mr. Murphy is always looking for an opportunity to mess with you.

[3Berries]

I use a 4 foot x 2 foot wire shelf tied to the poles. Then you can weave or tie off the cords.

The use of a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is highly encouraged. Not sure of how they do that with 220V. But on a two wire 110V circuit it provides the ground fault protection and is actually much better than just a grounded outlet. If you are using a two wire 110v ungrounded outlet get rid of it for a GFCI one.

[Ckbrew]

GFCI- good idea. All my circuits in the grow area are GFCI protected at the breaker box.

[GrumpyOldMan]

Good afternoon, Once again, Ckbrew, you've been a great source of information...

I found that my plants had actually grow up closer to the lights than I thought and had to move them up a few inches, which brought the temp down a few degrees, I can see I'll be having to adjust the lights frequently.

I also moved the 6 " duct fan to the top of my tent blowing vertically as you recommended, and yes, the rectangular vents at the bottom of my tent are open. I've adjusted the small fans more horizontally as well.
I aimed one of the small fans directly at the thermometer, but there was little change.

I did a VERY LIGHT defol, we're talking 6 or so leaves per plant, and then I switched them to flower, they're on a 12/12 schedule now, 100% intensity, 20" above the plants, so now the fun begins.
Thanks for the positive comments about my plants, rather encouraging...

Thanks again,
GrumpOldMan

[Ckbrew]

You are well on you way to a successful harvest. Keep a tape measure handy. During max stretch I usually have to move the lights up every day.

[gbauto]

I use a vpd chart to try and adjust my environmental conditions in the grow.

https://pulsegrow.com/pages/vpd-charts-in-fahrenheit-and-celsius

I use a simple IR temp gun to measure leaf surface temps and I've found that I tend to get best results when the leaf temps are around 80 degF.
That will usually result in a room temp around 83 degF with 60%rh.
Running coldr room temps is a hold-over from the HID days where they emit a shit-ton of IR heat to the grow space.

[GrumpyOldMan]

Hello to all, Happy New Year!

I've gotten pretty much everything straightened out as far as Temp/Humidity goes (for now...) and I've switched them over to flowering about 5 days ago, and now, I have a few more questions;

First of all, I've notice several sprouts of fresh growth coming up from the lower branches, should I do another light defol of fan leaves to give these more light or will they grow up past the fan leaves?
Secondly, Am I correct that each of these little sprouts are a potential bud site?
And Finally, now that I've switched them to flower, about how long before I should be looking for actual flowers?

Thanks again,
GrumpyOldMan

[UndergroundFarmer]

It's best to pick out which branches have a legit shot at making fully-formed bud then remove lowers that don't have a chance to catch up as well as new suckers from growth nodes below the canopy. I was once reluctant to do that but I eventually got tired of messing with larf after harvest. Equal-opportunity for all bud sites works to a point outside, never indoors though.

[gbauto]

If you have some way to train the branches to spread out, all of those new bud nodes will grow vertically into a sea of nice buds.