I just put my photos into 12/12 lighting and now it looks like I’m having some potassium/zink deficiencies? They were looking great up till flowering. They have started to flower. I have yellowing/light green leaves towards the bottom and new bud sites and random leaves with brown tips as in the photo. Not as many of these as yellowing. I’ve been feeding the GH trip and calimag from GH. Growing 2 in coco/perlite and 2 in Pete/vermiculite (was trying to see which produces better results). All 4 plants have the same symptoms. I’m following the flood to drain feed charts from GH. Water 2 times with nutes then flush with ph balanced water and feed on the 3rd watering. Watering roughly every 4 days in 5 gallon fabric pots. They dry right out between watering. Balanced ph to 6.0-6.2.
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Without seeing the entire plant it is very difficult to say what's going on. Usually burnt tips indicate over feeding. Yellowing lower leaves during flower and bud could just mean the plants are entering the new phase and they don't need the older sun leaves anymore. Again, without an overall picture of the plants, everything I say is conjecture. -
Hi Izzie, I haven'y done peat but have experienced this when my coco pH was 6.0 to 6.5. Had to reduce to 5.5 to 6.0 to clear up. Don't worry about being precise, it is actually better to have some variations in pH to allow uptake of diff nutes.Grow # 3 50/50 S/I Critical Mass photo fem
Seeds drop in water 1/8/2022
Medium: FF Coco Loco plus 30% Perlite in 7 gal cloth bags
Space: 30x48x62 DIY cabinet lined w/space blankets
Lighting: Bloomspect SS1000 Quantum board x 3 - 300 watts actual draw
Soil Supplements: Worm Castings, Crab Shell, Oyster Shell, Neem and Karanja Meal, Volcanic Basalt Dust (for minerals), Recharge root micros. Grow 3 is with reconstituted super soil to which I've added several additional minerals and supplements. A more complete list based on Cackamas Coots super soil recipe can be found in my Auto Toka thread
i don't grow plants anymore, I grow soil that my plants can thrive in!
My filtered tap water runs over 7.5 pH but the soil microbes
make pH correction unnecessary
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Oh that is cool, Izzie1701 I will have to go look at home hardware. One suggestion, double check that it is buffered or you will have even more salt. Usually it is buffered but not always, and in particular not when it is a compressed bale. That much salt can lead to lock out on other nutrients.
Wow, that is extremely high ppm in your parts and also a very high pH. Are you sure it is ppm and not mg/L? I did a quick search for the site I last used for this info ( https://www.aquatell.ca/pages/water-...y-city-ontario city water in cities across Canada) and just realized they use mg/ml. Based on my own testing my tap water is about pH 7.2. My water after the nutrients are added has a ppm close to your water with no nutrients added which seems wild but mine comes out of the tap at I think about 130. According to the above site 800 ppm wouldn’t be fit for drinking (although I think they might be selling water products). If you hunt around you may be able to find a water analysis for your town showing the exact makeup of the water. -
DeadlyFruit we actually just had a treatment plant installed as we were high in arsenic. Our water analysis is posted somewhere but I can’t find it now. I brew beer as well so needed it for that. I tested the tap water last night and we are down to a Ph of 7.6 now and about 660ppm. I flushed last night and think I was getting salt build up. EC going in was around 850 and coming out was 1350. I flushed with about 7g per pot to get the EC to about 900 coming out. I think I’m going to finish this grow using alfalfa and worm casting tea rather then general hydro nutes. Have a buddy here and that’s all he uses and has had great success. -
Worm castings and that sort of thing are best if you are in live soil. Might not be best for a coco/peat grow because it doesn't have the microbes to break it down properly. There are others here that are far better than me for knowing about soils and nutrients but I’m not sure I would want to change your nutrients this late in the game. I think if it were me I would just dial back the GH nutrients a bit. I might also consider watering more often than every 3 or 4 days since you are in smallish fabric pots. It is honestly pretty hard to over water in a fabric pot, just make sure they are not sitting in the run off. I actually water mine every 1-2 days but I water more often than most with a little less liquid and I monitor them to be sure they start to dry a bit before I give them another drink. I use an 8 gallon pot. If you are worried about salts in your tap water can you set out a rain collection barrel or get some water from a nearby water source? I know some people here use rain water but not sure what your drought situation is right now.
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crucialbunny sorry these are the full plant pics. A little droopy as it’s watering day tonight and it’s hot today.Comment
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I don't see anything to be alarmed about. They're doing a little flower stretch right now and often during that phase they give up some of the lower fan leaves. My suggestion would be to cut your nutrients to about half of what you're currently doing and trim up some of those lower fan leaves for better light penetration and air flow. I think they look fine and should begin to develop more bud sites soon. -
I agree with crucialbunny in cutting the nutes. IMO i see the beginning of nitrogen tox because of the darkness and almost waxy look to your leaves. It's not horrible but can get out of control quick if not addressed.
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