Holiday Treats -(here we grow again)-

[BU2B]

Update 7: 8.4.21

Okay, I've got a good buzz on and rambling seems appropriate (at the moment), so here are a few RANDOM thoughts on how and what I actually do when it comes to a grow. To be quite honest I've grown the way I do long enough now that even I have to stop and think sometimes before making a list for others. I find I just 'do them' without ever making note of them. If you find that to be the case during this grow, please let me know and I'll do my best to fill in the blanks.

• I know the DWC 'standard' protocol calls for a tub flush every 10 days. I haven't done this for years and find that being consistent with water temperatures, keeping a GAP between the roots and water levels, ph and nutrients as balanced as possible and GREAT not good or okay dissolved O2 can cut this down to requiring full tub changes ONLY 4 times during your grow. 1 on start, 1 when you first add nutrients (this will be once your plant has developed two sets of 'real' leaves - usually week 2 of your grow.), 1 when you change from veg to 'transition to bloom' or from veg to bloom if you don't do a transition and 1 final tub change when within the last 10-20 days and are adding Flawless Finish, Molasses or other finishing agent.
• This doesn't mean that if you have an issue with your plants you should not immediately do a tub flush and start from fresh, but I'd say for 20 out of 21 grows you'll find that four complete RESET and RESTART tub changes are all that are actually 'needed'
• If Growing DWC Hydro, it's my personal opinion that a good high quality, high output air pump that isn't going to batter your roots to death is tied with keeping water temps between 70-80*. If at all possible you want GREAT O2 saturation in your tubs, not just good. I use a minimum of two aerator stones per 5 gallon tub and have been known to use up to 4.
• If using 5 gallon tubs and NOT doing RDWD Insulating your dark tub with a lighter one can help regulate tub volume temps.
• Have a few spare 5 gallon buckets and an aquarium siphon pump (electric or manual) to help fill and drain your tubs. A short stool or riser also comes in handy as the tub being emptied will need to be higher than the one being filled.
• For me, I find DWC Hydro as opposed RDWC hydro preferable for many reasons: I don't really have the room for a reservoir. I find it easier to deal with 1 issue at a time as opposed to a RDWC system which can spread the issue over several plants and to varying degrees. Different strains often like slightly different nutrients, I find I can easily accommodate them individually with a DWC system. If you pay close enough attention and can catch issues in time, practically every issue can be dealt with - with a tub flush and restart. Turning off the O2 and not noticing for a week, just for reference; NOT a good thing.

*Please note optimal liquid tub temps are somewhere between 65-70 degrees farenheit - I live in the southwest and can honestly only get and maintain temp to around 68 if we have a cold winter or once the girls have started drinking a lot so I can add more cold water. As long as you keep your temps 80 or below you’ll have minimum to no problem with your grow IF you have great O2 saturation and use hydroguard regularly.

[Gracey]

I'm loving hearing this! I was just filling my gallon jugs to top off my 2 tubs and thinking I should probably change the water instead since it's been about 3 weeks (today is wk6 day2 of veg) but I will wait for transition time in a couple of weeks. What will I do with all the extra time though? My husband originally started our hydro grow and he only changed the water maybe once for rinsing/flushing before harvest. But he also was blatantly lax on many a housekeeping chores. Since I've taken the reins I like to be as spot on as possible.

[BU2B]

Update 8: 8.5.21

Here's a regular grow issue that can easily be addressed. IF you want to try and figure out what I'm talking about take a look at the two photos below, taken today, BEFORE you look at my response on the issue and how to fix it:

Banana Kush . . . . . . . Chocolate Mint OG

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BK looks good, nice to see some color. If you look closely at the CMOG you will notice that there is a small spot starting on the leaf to the left. As the girls haven't received any nutes yet it looks like the CMOG is going to prefer a bit of MagiCal/CalMag added to her first feeding. When I do a tub change, probably probably in the next few days, adding 1 - 3ml pipette of CalMag for each gallon is on my list for Choco. For the first tub change, tubs will be filled to 3-4 inches below the lid; hydroguard, ph Balanced water to around 6, 1 - 3ml pipette of each of the Flora Hydro Trio per tub (brown, green, pink) AND extra CalMag for Choco as she's saying she would like some. Plants will often 'grow out' of needing extra CalMag, once the plant is established and I've made my first topping, I generally start cutting back on the CalMag and see what she says about it.

[TOKABIGONE]

Eagle eyes sir! i couldn't see it until you pointed it out. Passed it by as a speck of dirt, lol.

[BU2B]

Update 9: 8.6.21
The girls are 10 days old today and have had their first nutrients introduced with a fresh tub.

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[panalilies]

Roots are gross lookin, but cute babies!

[BU2B]

Update 10: 8.10.21

The girls will be two weeks old in about 4 hours, so I'm counting the included photo as Week 2 Day 1 of the grow. The light has been moved down to 24 inches above the top of the tubs. I also added 3ml per gallon of MagiCal/CalMag to the Banana Kush. They've already well started on their on third set of leaves and will have their first topping more than likely before their second week is over. It's all up to them and how they're doing when they're developed enough to top. I find that week 2 or 3 is generally when the girls get their first hair cut; after that there will only be one more at the ends of of each of the two main branches from the Y.


The girls @ Week 2 day 1 (i.e., 15 days old) - BK & Choco

[BU2B]

Update 11: 8.13.21

The girls were both topped today. Here they are at 2 weeks and 3 days. Banana Kush on the left Chocolate Mint OG, right.




Net pots are currently about 1.5"-2" above the surface of the water. Tub liquid is 3.5 inches from below the lid. Within the next two weeks I will allow the liquid level in the tubs to drop until it gets to 3-4 inches below the bottom of the net pot.

At this point things are progressing right on schedule - I'll keep you posted on progress.

[SoOrbudgal]

Beautiful roots

[Ckbrew]

I take it that you topped between node 3 and 4 correct? I have never had a grow start with so little space between the nodes at this stage of growth. Mine are always more stretched out than what you have here. What is your secret to accomplishing this? Light?

[BU2B]

Ckbrew Yep, topped between nodes 3 and 4. I’m not really sure what to attribute their stocky nature to. Perhaps a combination of lighting and indica genetics? My plants have never stretched much except during the first 3 weeks of flowering.

[BU2B]

Update 12: 8.16.21
Week 2 Day 6
I finished cleaning up the undergrowth today that was originally left in place to aid with photosynthesis and plant development. The girls are doing well. Even though BK had roots coming out of the net pot first, Choco has pulled ahead as she got her roots to the water first.

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Keeping in mind that ideal liquid temps in your DWC tubs is about 68f; the average water temp for these two since being placed in the net pots has been 75.6f While almost 10 degrees over the ideal liquid temperature they are doing perfectly fine - due to EXCEPTIONAL O2 saturation and aeration. Without this extra boost of O2 and aeration you would more than likely be looking at root issues even at this early stage of development.
Just a side note: the time for root shots is rapidly drawing to a close. As training starts training wire used to produce the structure will secure the lids in place making root shots impractical.

[Ckbrew]

Did you make the carving of the old man in the clay ball at the base of choco?

[BU2B]

Update 13: 8.18.21

Here’s the girls today. Week 3 Day 1 - their first training wire

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[BU2B]

Update 14: 8.21.21
Week 3 Day 4
Both girls are developing well. The Banana Kush is slightly smaller than her sister now but is progressing right on schedule. Each plant currently has 6 flowering growth tips - the next node growth on the two main branches (which will happen before week 3 is over) will bring the total up 10 flowering growth tips per plant. Moved the light down to 18" above the canopy. Both plants have had their first full nutrients. Banana Kush on the left and Chocolate Mint OG on the right.

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[TOKABIGONE]

You do have the touch! I see the growth in the girls. Keep on, keeping on!

[grouchyoldman]

Greetings old friend,

As a big fan of the BU2B PPP method I thought I'd share a pic of my Cinderella XX plant which is currently entering week 5 of LST & strategic defol. My schedule won't permit a full 8 weeks of veg, so as soon as we see the "Fab 44" growth tips she's going into 12/12 flower mode. I'm just now seeing the first sex display, fingers crossed on the "XX" .

Can you explain again about the final "Strategic Topping" where you say:

"When your plant has grown to the point that there are 3 branches growing on each side of the two mainline branches we are going to 'top' the ends of each of them. You should have 3 branches on each side of your two new branches growing horizontally and 3 branches growing upward on each side of the Y. You are basically topping each end of the 'new' branches (each side of the Y) at the end making it split, just as you did for your initial topping that created your plants Y structure. You want to do this when the plant has 3 horizontal 'sets' of leaves. When you top just after the 3rd horizontal node you will have 8 growing branches on each side (including your two vertical branches)."

Are we topping all 12 of the new main branches (6 on each side)? I've never been entirely clear on that and maybe you could elaborate or take some pics when you come to that point in your current grow?

Mahalo Brother!

[SoOrbudgal]

OK i'm crossing my fingers X , so far the spread looks good to me.

[BU2B]

She's looking good. Hmmm... are we supposed to guess whether its an auto or not as well?

[BU2B]

You are only topping your plant 3 times total. 1 Time to produce the initial Y or T and 1 time at each end. Topping the plant slows growth, so; while you can top each and every end if you want to, it's not really a part of the PPP method. Note that the PDF version does address this but apparently not very clearly - my apologies. My reasoning for NOT topping each and every branch is that A) topping slows growth B) You only get two new growth tips per topping while allowing the branch to grow normally will also produce the same amount of growth tips WITHOUT slowing down plant growth and development or making your plant wider. I hope this helps explain the Topping portion a bit better.

[grouchyoldman]

Thanks Maestro, That is the way I interpreted it but it's good to confirm. PM me if you want to edit the PDF.

[BU2B]

And the purpose of topping the two ends is - it keeps the ‘energy’ flow of your plant consistent AND prevents you from having two really good colas (one at each end) and a ton of smaller ones. The goal is to keep them all equal in size. Translating into a lot of really good colas. It’s all about equality and equanimity. The maximum number of junctions energy has to flow through with this method is 4 at most (1- stalk 2- main branches 3- side branches 4- growth tip And all equally.)

[Smoklahoma]

That does clarify, thank you. I have to work on getting my seedlings not to stretch so much. Almost topped every branch before leaving town on vacation, glad I didn't. This grow 2 is basically a test grow. Trimming and training every plant, and letting the whole grow take care of itself for 8 days. Already tore 3 branches, 2 completely off and saved one. I left the 3rd and 4th node on 2 of them just to see what they do. Picts are from the day we left.

[BU2B]

Nice set up 👍🏼

[Smoklahoma]

Thank you. Trying to get all the kinks worked out of the grow room by the start of the next grow.

[BU2B]

Re:stockier plants without much stretch. The ONLY thing I can see that I do differently than most is leaving the light on 24/7 during the veg cycle. Could this be the key? I never gave it much thought.

[Puglover1]

I had my autos on 24/7 in the beginning, I got tight-noded dwarves.

[Smoklahoma]

Mine have been on a 20/4 schedule from the beginning. First grow I know I didn't give light soon enough. This grow I gave them light immediately but nervous about burning with new cobs, didn't have them turned up high enough. Maybe I'll get it right next time?

[Ckbrew]

I will have to try 24/7 light the next time I start some beans.

[BU2B]

Update 15: 8.25.32
Week 4 day 1

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The girls have had 6 leaves removed each and are looking a bit sparse at the moment. Which makes it a perfect opportunity to display plant structure. 4 fan leaves removed on the first nodes will reveal that the plants new growth branches will need to be twisted slightly so that the first node is two growth tips growing out ward instead of up and down. A little practice will allow you have your plants grow a naturally flat canopy with very little LST to keep the canopy level. The leaf over the two top growing tips was also removed on each plant. As the plants grow these two first growing upward I fold over toward the center and use training wire to hold them in place. Each plant currently has 16 flowering growth tips - soon to be 22. By the end of week 4 I usually have the basic growth structure of the plant established, so that by week 5 plants are ready to grow upward and outward as the run for the roses begins.

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THE BARE NAKED LADIES

Plant Structure as of Week 4 day 1 shown below

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Sorry - I just can't resist... I Love this song and it's almost 420 as I type
so - here's to my Ganja Babe - I love the way you love me and the way you're mis-behavin'

[Puglover1]

'Mary, Mary quite contrary how's your garden grow?' - If I had a dollar for every time I heard that growing up ... and it does grow slow.

[TOKABIGONE]

Man those are looking great! More than doubled in size since I saw them a week ago. I did something similar in my first grow with training in coco/perl. This time in my Coco Loco +plus+ I want to train one as you do and two with a quadline training by topping above node 3 on the beams and removing nodes one and two for the beam at node three on the stalk and then on stalk node four beams I will top after 2 and remove node one. I hope I explained that well enough to understand what I'm going for. That would be 8 main colas on each plant plus any side branching I decide to keep or remove. I doubt I'll get a lb per but a 1/2 would work for me, lol!