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    Laf problems

    2 different plants the first 3 pics with the yellow dots on. Has anyone got any ideas then last 3 with the funny markings the leaves are dead brittle and crumbling in my fingers this has come on over night any ideas thanks guys
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    #2
    Some clawing, burnt tips, dark green color, and droop probably means a bit too much nitrogen in your soup. A good flush and a nutrient free diet for a few days should help.

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      #3
      that making leaves crumbly as well had no nutriants for 2weeks just soil stuff says no need to feed for 5weeks with added b130 thanks mate

      Comment


      • crucialbunny
        crucialbunny commented
        Editing a comment
        Their "no need fertilizing" statement indicates they have already punched it up with time released nutrients. Young plants need very little in the way of fertilizers. New plants will use most of their energy to set out roots and drink water in order to develop foliage later. It's possible, even likely, the soil you are using is too hot and is burning the leaves.

      #4
      ok mate thanks i in uk its a nightmare trying to get normal soil with nothing added in dont fancy ordering 50litre bags to my door no what i mean if i flush it a couple of times like u said will that sort it

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      • crucialbunny
        crucialbunny commented
        Editing a comment
        I don't know how to help you with availability in your area I'm afraid. Do you have an area where you can start your own compost? I haven't bought any soil in a couple years since I began my worm bins. I recycle a lot of my old soil back through the compost bins and after a couple months it's ready again.

      #5
      ye was thinking about a wormary the guy next door to my allotment just started one i have a compost heap on my allotment wasnt sure u could use it cross contamination i use it on veg and all my fruit how big your wormary how many plants u grow average do u use nutes worms ok with it

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      • crucialbunny
        crucialbunny commented
        Editing a comment
        I have two 35 gallon plastic storage bins I keep my worms in. One is for high nitrogen scraps and crushed eggshell. I use it about 1:3 ratio with benign compost, sand, pearlite, DE, and peat for my final potting mix. The other I use high phosphorus scraps like potatoes, avocados, bananas, and asparagus. It's good for teas and top dressing during flower & bud. It's best to start the bins off season so you don't get in a hurry to use it up. I had enough soil this year for about 30 5 gallon pots. Remember though that is a 1 to 3 ratio. Straight worm compost gets way to muddy and dense on it's own. Last year I tried seedlings in straight castings and ended up with lollipops encased in adobe bricks. I also recycle my spent soil in the bins after harvest and it rejuvenates it amazingly. It might sound daunting but really it's easy as hell and I only spend maybe an 2 hours a month dealing with it.

      #6
      Any other ideas on my plants guys thanks

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        #7
        What's your ph of inflow water?

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          #8
          between 6.4 to 6.7 mate

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          • Covid420
            Covid420 commented
            Editing a comment
            Soil ideal ph is 6.0-6.5 I think I've read that optimal calmag uptake is at 6.1-6.3

          • Covid420
            Covid420 commented
            Editing a comment
            Could be time for transplant as well. Looking a little big for the pot. Possible start of root bound

          #9
          that great mate at my allotment i make confrey tea and one with nettles chicken shit and seaweed they also go on compost heap can i use this stuff from allotment or do i start a fresh sterile one what do u think

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          • crucialbunny
            crucialbunny commented
            Editing a comment
            You can put just about any organic compost in there. You don't want sterile. You want a living breathing bacteria and enzyme stew. The worms eat it then shit black gold and the bacteria grow in it breaking it down further so roots easily draw it in. One of the main reasons growers add blackstrap to their soil is not to feed the plants but to feed the beneficial bacteria in your pot to keep your potting soil alive. There are a lot of growers who just keep pumping bottled, sterile, nutrients into dead soil which can lead to lock-out. I'm not saying bottled, sterile, nutrients aren't effective, only that having a active soil helps in the intake of those nutrients. (BTW: I don't have the vaguest idea what an allotment is)

          #10
          sorry i mean bugs and desease being transfered from one place to another not sterile soil and allotment is plot of land u rent put chickens ducks grow fruit veg on what we call it in uk

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            #11
            The only kind of bugs I find in mine are all composters. In the early spring I had a few fungus gnats and I just sprinkled a little DE over the top and they were gone next time I checked.

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              #12
              Ok mate going to give that a go

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