Node numbering- the round cotyledon leaves and the first single lobed serrated leaves would both be considered node zero. The cotyledons will fall off on their own. I always cut the node zero shoots as they usually don't produce much as well as the single lobed leaf. When I decide to cut something I do it as soon as the plant does not need it to survive. That leaves the first three lobed serrated leaf as node one. The rest are numbered as the plant grows up so you have a few more to go. What you do next depends on what your plan is. One option would be to let it go a few more nodes then start bending the plant sideways so the shoots can grow upward. Another strategy would be to top it above node five. This would result in eight branches that would grow outward to the side and two to grow straight up. I tie the branches to a ring at the base of the plant to spread them out. Those are the two main strategies. You won't stunt them by bending, and only a little slow down with topping. The only thing that would prevent the stem from being able to be bent over would be if the main stem turned woody and you are a long way away from that. They need to grow a bit more before serious training can begin, you are close. Autos can be more difficult to grow in that they are on their own timetable so training has to be planed and then stick to the plan.