Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Building A DIY Chiller

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Building A DIY Chiller

    I'm not sure if this is the right place to come to ask for help on this topic or not, and I am already well aware of the complexity to the help I am asking others for on this topic, so let me back up and bring everyone up to speed on where I am at and why I need the help I do. Before I got a traumatic brain injury I was working on working out the last of some things on a DIY Chiller, but now I've got 95% of the entire system figured out and everything, but I am 100% clueless as to what the final pieces of the answer is to finish the system, and I am not in a place where I can do it anymore for myself or even ask anyone around me for help who would be able to understand it. The DIY Chiller is going to be a 50-foot copper 1/2-inch soft copper tube coiled inside of a refrigerator, want to know what it will look like look up "Wort Chiller" and "Triple Coil Immersion Wort Chiller" and you will see for yourself I have some options on how to do heat exchange and at how fast and how much of a rate. To give you an idea of why and where I am got this idea check this YouTube link:
    HOW TO: DIY Aquarium chiller TUTORIAL
    GET MY BOOK: http://thekingofdiy.comFollow me: http://facebook.com/uarujoeySome hobbyists live in areas where it might get very hot in certain months. Coolin...


    Unsure of if just leaving the copper coils in the air like that was the most effective way to cool, was considering putting them into a bucket like you would actually do with a Wort Chiller in the process of cooling beer, only I would use a product by "Cold Gel", the blue gel packs you can put in the freezer. They will sell the powder to make different cold gels yourself. I assumed this way the copper coils would be surrounded by something in a gel form which can hold its cold better than air or water and allow the fridge to keep up with chilling down the coolant passing through the inner copper coils. That is as far as I was in everything when I suddenly find myself here now with only my notes and former though processes which are written down to go by.

    So the question becomes "Why not just buy a chiller and save myself the hassles?" because it was said nobody can really say for sure what size chiller I really need for what I am using it all for, so every company told me the following things:

    - If the chiller is too small it won't be able to keep up and you won't be able to cool things properly
    - If the chiller is too big, then it will cycle to many times in an hour and shut itself down until the set time passes and things won't cool properly

    So how do you know what size chiller you need, well that depends on what your problem is, too cold or not cold enough... because if its cycling to often on/off you can use a Buffering Tank so the chiller doesn't cycle to often. If on the other hand your chiller is too small, you could go with a TES (Thermal Energy Storage) tank to store extra chilled coolant for when the system needs it at peak demand times when the chiller can't keep up. So again, what size chiller do I need? Chill King says that if you go with an "aquarium chiller" then figure at least double the size of what you think you need, and if you look at companies like Eco Plus they rate their chillers in GPH, and Chill King rates there's in BTU's... Chill King makes the smallest chiller a 1-ton chiller that sits outside on a concrete pad and has the pipes running inside to cool whatever, so that puts it into a perspective on the sheer "small size" of their smallest chiller. Everyone said the best way to find out was to put a chiller into place, run it and punch out some numbers for in and out coolant temps, etc... then they could further help me. Which lead me to come up with a DIY chiller as a cheap starting point, because I can build it for under $200 and perhaps it is all I'm going to need when the cheapest other chillers start at around $1,200.

    That is as far as I got to finishing this when I got my brain injury, now I can't do basic things much less try to figure out the complex answers of if any of this stuff even works out, makes sense, etc... Someone can finish it for me, but first I need to know if the basic designs of this copper cooling coil being put into a cold gel really makes sense in the idea of working in this fashion, or was it just me goofing off with a random idea that didn't go anywhere? Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
    The only way to become the a good at anything is to read about it and learn all you can about it, and if it's something you love why not become an expert in it? The best place for anyone to start is at the beginning and make sure we didn't overlook anything, so let's go back to the basics.
    http://www.growweedeasy.com/basics

    #2
    🌱Just curious, why are you adding a chiller? Are you having trouble with root rot? 🌱
    (ノ◕ヮ◕)ノ*:・゚✧*:・゚✧ Poof!

    Comment


      #3
      Your concept is sound.

      Where were the chiller copper coils going? Where are exhausting the heat from the refridgreat or going?

      Comment


        #4
        Well to try to explain this the best, I am just going to refer you to two YouTube video's by Hydro Innovations:

        Hydro Innovations Ice Box video:
        This video shows all components for an indoor garden water-cooled system and how to install. This setup includes Ice Boxes, HydroGEN water-cooled co2 generat...


        Hydro Innovations Ice Box video part 2:


        I finally found the other video I have long been searching for as well:

        Hydro Innovations water cooled system installation part 2 2:
        Last edited by PigSquishy; 05-13-2017, 05:15 PM.
        The only way to become the a good at anything is to read about it and learn all you can about it, and if it's something you love why not become an expert in it? The best place for anyone to start is at the beginning and make sure we didn't overlook anything, so let's go back to the basics.
        http://www.growweedeasy.com/basics

        Comment


          #5
          I figured a photo might make it seem easier to understand than me trying to explain it, the idea is based off from a TES Tank, which is the other photo I included as some company was showing how much copper goes inside the stainless steel tank for the TES tank. I will be shifting the heat from the fridge to a much colder spot that will allow it to run efficiently at cooler temps where it is located at. Because yes I am already well aware all an AC - Chiller - Dehumidifier really does is to shift the heat from one place to another, thus it's very efficiency depends on locating it in a much cooler place to dump the heat or you will never make any forward progress in removing the heat.
          Attached Files
          The only way to become the a good at anything is to read about it and learn all you can about it, and if it's something you love why not become an expert in it? The best place for anyone to start is at the beginning and make sure we didn't overlook anything, so let's go back to the basics.
          http://www.growweedeasy.com/basics

          Comment


            #6
            Just making sure exhausting the fridge etc into the room with your tent defeat the purpose.

            Comment


              #7
              Yes I am well aware of that, including being aware that if I even put a chiller inside a shed, room, etc... and I try to vent it outside my Intake needs to be 2-inches LARGER than the Exhaust. No, that is not a typo because of my head injury either. The Intake must be larger than the exhaust, which is opposite of what you are told for the Intake and Exhaust of a grow tent or grow room. They also strongly recommend the Intake as well as the exhaust also have fans on them to exchange the air in the room and also point out that you will lose so much of a % of its BTU rating because it will not be able to work nearly as efficiently or effectively. Some people even think they can put a chiller in a closet, of another room, and again the reasoning I worded my answer above the way I did was because the chiller, fridge AC, etc... needs to have air circulation around it as it will heat the air around it and the cooler the air is around it the easier it will work and be able to release the heat. The hotter the room temp where the chiller is kept, the more you efficiency also goes down. The best range for a dehumidifier, AC, or chiller would be about 60-F, colder they start having issues and past 80-90's again you are dropping efficiency the higher the temps go.

              That is why and where hydro cooling is so amazing in of itself, I could chill a large vat of water during the night, some setups actually make ice for cooling and the third way is using some type of salts, want to learn more about all that amazing TES tank stuff by all means check into all they ways government offices to entire military bases, right down to companies around the entire world use hydro cooling as their primary way of cooling. During the night when fewer people are using electricity and the demand for it is low, you can chill water, ice, etc... and then during the heat of the day use it to cool your house, garden, etc... So not only do you save money on cooling, but my chiller then in effect would run at their highest efficiency when the air temps are at the coolest points, and when electricity is the cheapest, until the TES tank is cooled and then it gets shut off for the day until it is need the next night. Or unless it needed to be used to help keep up with a super hot day outside with record temps and I couldn't otherwise keep things cool without the extra cooling boost. On top of all of this I have already previously designed a Solar Cooler to be used at night to chill the water, based on the ideas and principles of a solar freezer which will freeze water on a hot summer's night. The problem is I do not know how many BTU's of cooling these will provide, hence why I need to make sure my basis for my DIY Chiller makes sense to people and see if anyone see something I would have not seen or seen before.

              Like something else I am aware of is that the reason I need copper 1/2 coil inside the fridge is because Chill King states "they use 25-feet of 1/2-inch soft copper in a coil inside their chiller" and if you look at how a chiller is designed and made you will see why I then decided on 50-foot of soft copper. The chiller's copper pipe goes into a stainless steel reservoir filled with water or antifreeze mixture depending on how cold you plan to run your chiller temps, and that coolant is then chilled down and returned to the coolant reservoir by a single pump, so the chiller is never starved for coolant to prevent it from freezing up and breaking metal inside it. I thus felt I would use a reservoir of my own I will call a bucket since it needs to fit inside the fridge. The reasoning for copper is it has the best heat exchange of all the metals, they use stainless steel in the nutrient reservoirs because it stands up to the salts in the water better than copper. So I figured to have one or two coils inside of the bucket, within the Cold Gel, the idea is the cold gel is suppose to be able to hold its cold longer than even ice can. The medical industry as well as others have turned to Cold Pack for their long term cooling solutions because of its ability to keep the cold for such a long period of time, thus I assume and believed by using it in place of water it would allow the water to come into the 50-foot of copper inside and outside the bucket giving it plenty of time to chill down to temps before leaving the fridge to return to the coolant reservoir. The fridge wouldn't be taxed either because the Cold Gel would get cold, stay cold longer and give the fridge more time to try to play catch up from when the lights turn off before the coolant reservoir would be to its peak temps and the lights would turn off and the fridge would have plenty of time to cool everything back down again for the next cycle.
              The only way to become the a good at anything is to read about it and learn all you can about it, and if it's something you love why not become an expert in it? The best place for anyone to start is at the beginning and make sure we didn't overlook anything, so let's go back to the basics.
              http://www.growweedeasy.com/basics

              Comment


              • alltatup
                alltatup commented
                Editing a comment
                Greenthumb, I have mad respect for you for doing this yourself!

              • PigSquishy
                PigSquishy commented
                Editing a comment
                Thank You alltatup

            Check out our new growing community forum! (still in beta)

            Subscribe to Weekly Newsletter!

            Working...
            X