Am i setup for success? Looking for sanity check/conversation

[ponzi314]

Sanity Check for Next Grow (2x4 Tent, Coco Setup)

Hey everyone, just wanted to do a sanity check on my next run and get some extra tips to make sure things go smoother this time. I’ve read through the Coco Complete Guide, but figured it’d be good to hear from you all directly.

Background:
I’ve done about 5 grows so far, all autoflowers. My current run has been rough—it’s still going at 28 weeks and looks ugly. Looking back, I realize I’ve been cutting corners.

• Tried the living soil route, but found out 5 gal pots don’t really cut it.
• Switched to bottled nutes (GH Flora series), but kept running into issues—lots of crisping leaves.
• I always blamed the light, but after more research I’ve learned two big things:
  1. pH really matters.
  2. Autos are finicky—definitely not “easy mode.”

New Setup:

• AC Infinity 2x4x6 tent
• AC Infinity IONFRAME Evo3 light (280W — recommended at least 240W)
• 2 × 3-gal pots sitting on AC Infinity self-watering bases
• Custom coco/perlite mix (70/30, first time using bricks to save $)

Water & pH:
I pulled up my house water report—tap pH is 7.85. I’m starting to think that’s been the root of my crisping issues. Picked up some gear to handle that:

• Apera PH20
• GH pH Down
• Calimagic (CalMag)
• Storage solution for the pH meter

Plan is to keep my nutrient solution between 5.5–6.5.

Nutes:

• GH Flora series
• Calimagic

Grow Plan:
2 Seeds will start directly in the 3-gal pots to help keep height in check. Once my light’s dialed in, I’ll take PPFD readings and aim for:

• ~200 PPFD @ 16" for seedlings
• ~500 for veg
• ~800 for flower

Forgot to put this run will be with Photos instead of autos(Blueberry Muffins)

Any advice for a newbie, Since its coco im told i need to give nutes everytime/calmag, Now with the self watering bases should i use them and fill up with runoff? or should i just use them to catch excess water?
Appreciate all the help

[Ckbrew]

About the coco bricks, They are a lot of work. Need to rehydrate, rinse in water several times to get rid of salt and sand, then buffer it with a soak in water and calmag. I did it once and decided that my time was worth more than what I saved vs buying prepared bags of coco/p. Yes, pH matters. The pH of the starting water is irrelevant. Measure pH after nutes are added in this order, calmag, micro, grow, bloom, check pH then adjust as needed. I shoot for 5.8. Imo pH meters are a pita and not worth the hassle. I use pH papers. Give nutes and calmag with every feeding, unless you want to go the every other day with pH plain water. Look up the schedule in GWE coco hydro. I use the DTW top watering method but have been experimenting with bottom watering. with good results.

[ponzi314]

looks like i didnt do enough research on the coco the guide on here says i just need to hydrate, mix with perlite and good to go.However on another post i saw someone mentioned soaking with calmag so i might do that.
Ill check out that schedule, ty.

I tried ph papers, have them in drawer but i cant tell difference between 5-8.

[golfnrl]

You have obviously put some thought into this and it looks like you have invested in some quality gear , that will help. How will you handle temps and RH? Do you have a range or VPD you are trying to maintain?

Yes, give nutes every time you water. You've got a little higher ceiling in your PPFD range for veg and flower if you need it and the light will produce it.

Have you signed up for the GWE newsletter? Nebula Haze is doing a grow with the ACI self watering bases. They look intriguing.

I grow with the autopot system in 50/50 coco/perlite. Autopots are a bottom feed wicking type of watering system. I use a 12 gallon rez. With autopots I can check the PH in the rez and each individual plant's water tray. To get the right PH in the tray I need to run the PH in the rez at 5.5 - 5.6, that gives me a PH of 5.8-5.9 right at the roots, anything higher in the rez causes PH issues. Does ACI recommend a range for your reservoir's PH?

One common issue is PH fluctuation in the reservoir. For your reservoir use a small aquarium pump set to run for about 15 mins about every three hours. That will help keep your nutrient solution stable. Steer away from air stones. Have you considered a PH controller for your reservoir?

[golfnrl]

Your grow setup being in your office is a good thing. You can help control the environment in the tent from your lung room. My tents are set up in a spare bedroom. Temps in tents are 6 degrees warmer than the lung room. RH is controlled in the lung room. I use a two 35 pint dehumidifiers when the RH gets high.

Yes, the autopot requires top feed until the plant gest rooted in after transplant. That usually takes about 7-10 days and then I turn the system on.

[ponzi314]

I was reading the newsletter last night and shes saying that AC recommends cleaning every 2 weeks. Do you do this? thats alot of work lol

[golfnrl]

I clean the rez once in the grow cycle, usually when I make the flip and start using bloom enhancer, and in between grows of course. I clean the rez filter whenever needed or about every three refills. It can get pretty stinky in there. Early on I did some complete grows without cleaning the reservoir. But since I've learned that paying close attention to the PH is easier to do with clean water and clean reservoir. My biggest problem with the reservoir is keeping light out of it. That causes algae to grow and can easily clog up the lines.

[ponzi314]

uhoh looks like im switching this up a little. Just discovered grow dots!

[Allotrope1000]

Hi, Ponzi.
The other forum members have provided excellent advice. I'll comment on autoflowers.
I grow in a greenhouse, 50/50 coco perlite and love autoflowers.

I can get a winter crop from them with NO supplemental lighting and find them easy. I do sprout the seedlings and grow out them before placement in in final pots.
Get good results.

[Bluey]

Id recommend top feeding initially at 6.0pH (your matching the pH of the medium initially) with about 0.3/0.4EC nute strength. You can add calmag after a couple of nute changes or from the start of feeding from the res. I do recommend soaking the coco in calmag solution if it is not pre-buffered with it. You will likely run into deficiencies if you dont.

Once feeding from the res Id start the pH at 5.8 as CKBrew recommends but you need it to climb through a range and you do need to aerate the mix which will make the pH climb. Adjust back down to 5.8 every 24 hours. I put my aerator on a digital timer so i can run it however I like...5 minutes every 20 minutes to 3 minutes every 10 minutes...I just adjust it based on the pH measurement after the 24hr period when I go to adjust the pH down....under 6.5 I will run the aerator more...over 6.8 Ill run it less...this will adjust the pH up and down a little bit. If only top feeding I will use a range similar to above, 5.8 to 6.2 in veg and just below 6 to just above 6.3 in flower,L.

Fine tuning your pH to suit the plants and the nutes you are using, there in lies the science of growing, and adjust nute strength based on stage of growth, light levels and VPD is a bit of an art. You nail the above you nail the grow

I use a pH meter also. I struggle with the paper also and I use nutes that are not clear, some have color that can skew paper readings.

You will need a dehumidifier, unless you live in a desert and ambient pH doesnt go above 20%. The dehumidifier will add heat which you will need to manage so lights on of a night and off either side of the middle of the hottest part of the day.

Photos are easiest to correct if you stuff them up....your not time limited, just space limited.

LST and mainlining them will give you far greater yields that you can achieve with an excellent auto grow with only a small bump in grow time.

Conservative light approach as you have stated is the way to go until you are nailing your grow, then start pushing them a bit more.

Under canopy lighting will help with yields quite a bit and stress the plants less than hammering them with all the light from above. No need for supplimental lighting if using full spectrum LEDs.

Getting humidity down low mid to late flower will produce more premium bud in so far as improved canna goodies, mostly THC. Getting temps down at the same time will produce denser buds. These traits are mostly strain dependant though so starting with great seeds from a reputable breeder is essential....and most here that give seeds away have the most premium seed you will find anywhere.

[Bluey]

Make sure you go for a dehumidifier that you can set the controls on...eg 40% RH for late in flower...I wouldnt use one under 20ltrs/day and must have a compressor. The bigger the plant gets the more humid the grow area will get and you want to start flower stage at around 60-65%, and be at 40% 2 weeks before harvest. The last 2 weeks just go as low as you can. A dehumidifier that size should handle 1 large plant easy and 2 large plants well based on a 14 to 16 week grow time aiming for about a pound of bud a plant. 400w+ lighting a plant for that.

Its not essential to hit those numbers but you will need to be under 60%RH or mold is pretty much guaranteed above that..hitting those numbers will bring out the best in your strain all else being equal.

[ponzi314]

I was kindof hoping i didnt have to add any more electrical things to the mix as my electric bill is already 400+ every month. But ill see how it goes and if it goes too crazy high then i guess i have no choice, maybe now is a good time to buy too

[Bluey]

You won't need it until you get to the flower stage