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Boron or potassium deficiency

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  • Clutch707
    replied
    Still a lil trouble think my problem is growing on a budget my humidifier runs out of water every 4 to 5 hrs the exhaust fan is more than enough maybe too strong as when I close my tent the fan tries to colapse it from the negative air system it creates but All and all much more manageable and since we came to perhaps a toxicity level rather a deficiency
    they are much happier and the signs on the leaves don't show in new growth

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  • Mr.furley
    commented on 's reply
    How's that temperature and humidity doing since you up the frequency of watering?

    Looking good remember to water the pot according to plant size and countdown 5 weeks from the last time you transplanted to fresh soil as a marker for nutrients.

  • Clutch707
    replied
    And there I go again w minimal info
    these are 5 1/2 weeks from spout water switched from every 3 days to less water every day and a half.
    P.h water at 6.5 to 6.75 and running 18 and 6 light shedual with fox farm oceanforest

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  • Clutch707
    replied
    I have to say Mr.Furley thank you for the insight of only p.h.water with the soil I'm using it made a world of difference

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  • Clutch707
    replied
    Here are my updates but 1st. Thanks again for all your input belive I'm on the right track now so thanks again for all your input. Mr. Farley, dilvish,Simon, and 3Berries

    Leave a comment:


  • Clutch707
    replied
    Wow thank you again I see now what come as a new grower doing all their own research I've been implementing bits and pieces from different style growing w/o even knowing how drastic those effect can be thanks again I will be sure too give updates. This comment written but not posted on
    11-7-22. But as i promisedid give updates so I'll start by saying. HAPPY TURKEY DAY NATION!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • 3Berries
    commented on 's reply
    I use the MG because I had 5 lb boxes. I bought some Master Blend a year ago and it will be the replacement when the MG is gone.

    I do also use langbeinite. a couple tablespoons in the original mix and one on top. 3 gallon of mix.

    I'll lower my target pH a bit. So far the Promix seems to be quite forgiving. I got some EWC to add for the next grow.
    Last edited by 3Berries; 11-17-2022, 08:36 AM.

  • Mr.furley
    commented on 's reply
    : Disclaimer :

    I am not a fan of Miracle-Gro products and the use of it so Before my little rant goes to far I would like to state I do have friends that grow big plants with M-G veg and flower, outdoors in the ground. I won't smoke their weed or eat from there garden and im not the best to ask about Miracle Grow round here as I refuse to use it.

    I'll try to answer without bias.

    First is I'd drop potassium bicarbonate and thoughts of potassium phosphate (M-G contains potassium phosphate already ) targeting 6.9 to 7.1 ph in soil is a little high (Like me most days) I would think 6.6 would be ideal in soil, you do know that soil you do a slurry test not runoff for Ph? Just to be clear promix is not a soil mix and in my book is a soilless medium. It mainly containing premixed Moss, coco, perlite with a little added mycorrhizae. From past experience treating it like a semi soiless medium with a lower ph (around 6.3) and some added perlite 4:1 initially really made a difference down the road.

    I would suggest like any nutr line that you look at uping your dosage if using at a 1/4 to 1/2 strength isnt completely working since it's an all in one my thought is that M-G bloom booster ( 10-52-10 ) at full dose in week three of flower could be the meal ticket your are looking for. so If you find you still missing a kick, Rock phosphorus and lingbeinite would be something to look into.

    I get what you're doing and think you're looking in the right direction, my views on MG are my own and make it hard for me to give good advice about the fine tuning you are looking for but I think you get the idea.

  • 3Berries
    commented on 's reply
    I use half rain and half well water, gives me around 300 ppm per gallon to start with. Mostly Ca with some Mg and minor iron in the water. Then Miracle Grow veg or flower, usually at 1/4 to 1/2 rate, 1/2 teaspoon of molasses, 1/4 tsp of Epsom and pH up with potassium bicarbonate aiming for 7.0. Humic/Fluvic powder too.1/8 tsp per gal. This usually comes out at 6.6 pH and I add maybe one or two teaspoons of potassium bicarbonate to get to 6.9-7.1

    Have been using Fox Farm soils and went to ProMix-Bx. Seems the FoxFarms did great in veg but worse in flower and had pH issues. I have a auto in FoxFarm Ocean Forest now and it's doing great but I added more limestone to the soil mix.

    My current flowering ones were the first in the Promix so kind of had to see how they reacted. The pH has always been 6.5 but is rising to upper 6s. I seldom ran this to run off. But they are about done. I cut off the big buds a week ago.

  • Mr.furley
    commented on 's reply
    I have not. everybody in my neck of the world party's down not alot of story's of adding up. I use a autodoser on a reservoir so a 1 gallon jug of cutting edge is the most economical and convenient system these days.

    Can I ask a little more detail about your nutr line?

  • 3Berries
    commented on 's reply
    All I have been doing is switching to flowering nutes the last watering in veg. Maybe a week.

    Ever use potassium phosphate? Seems it could be used as a pH up. I usually use potassium bicarbonate.

  • Mr.furley
    commented on 's reply
    3Berries

    If you look at most nutrient lines suggested feeding chart in week 3/4 is when there's a extra kick of P/K In one form or another. most newer growers, especially ones on a budget skip this product or miss the timing.
    If you read/use E/c or Ppms this is the 1.7-2.2 week. Most growers miss this step fighting yellowing and crispy brown leave after week three chasing Phantom Ph and cal-mag problems till harvest as the lack of phosphorus and or potassium will cause lowering pH at the root Zone and symptoms can closely resemble calmag on a chart.

    I call it cannabis puberty at my house, there is a switch in the need of primary nutrients for development and growth. If you remember that plants are using mobile and immobile nutrients the time makes sense for future need.

  • 3Berries
    replied
    My issues seem to be after the stretch and low potassium. Doesn't seem to do much good to add extra after the fact as far as the fan leaves as they progressively get worse. Next grow going to boost K prior to the 12/12 switch. I was careful with pH this time and excess nutes. Use Potassium bicarbonate for pH up. Run off was 6.8 last time I checked.

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  • Sino
    commented on 's reply
    I read somewhere “genetics load the gun, environment pulls the trigger”

  • dilvish
    replied
    Many new growers can have an expectation that if it gets enough light and enough water, it will grow. This is true of any plant. Cannabis will certainly grow if it gets the bare minimums but the trick is to get it to a point where it has thick buds to harvest. That can be easy or difficult depending on your ability to follow instructions and read the articles posted on the main site.

    Cannabis needs care and attention to get it to it's full potential and it is easy to miss a step or two along the way. One problem can lead to a cascade of other problems and so the basics are really important - Full spectrum Light, heat, humidity, watering practices and PH are crucial. Nutrients play a defining role as well but are pointless if you haven't covered the basics.

    Leave a comment:

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