Thank you TOKABIGONE !!
I want and need to hear it all. Opinions and experiences included. I’ve learned (or am) how to incorporate it all. I’m so far in today and never thought I’d get close or germ a seed. I’m so happy to know I’m not out here flying blind with the soil, as the process catches on. I just happened to be starting everything at this time, and it’s available and I actually found it by accident. My friend is starting a tree farm, and ordered yards and yards (no clue, just truckloads 🤣). When I looked up the farm it comes from I was already hooked, then I found the formula, “for marijuana cultivars,” and they had me hook, line and sinker. Hhaaa
Thank you!! Always feel free to tell me things you may notice I’m missing or think I should do. It’s why I’m here.
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Thank you GD69 for that courtesy! dilvish i hope understands I meant no disrespect and I'm afraid to say can get a bit (lot) preachy when I feel strongly about an issue. A flaw in my nature I'm sure!
That said, please understand that everything I say is exactly 'My Opinion' and everything I say is based on what I do myself but you should never, never add anything chemical such as sulfer acids Up or Down to adjust your input pH for soil as they will rapidly diminish the microbe life to extinction in your grow medium. You might use lemon juice or such but it has a half life of less than 24 hours so really is pointless.The same I believe holds true for the chemical fertilizers we are encouraged to dump liberally onto our roots.
Now a forum is a place where all opinions and disagreements are valued on their merit. No one wants to hear petty bickering as it is worth nothing. If however, an opinion is a suggestion that might prove harmful then it is incumbent on all of us to bring attention to it immediately. Going forward I will try to be sure my tone is not offensive to anyone reading. Happy Pharming everyone!Last edited by TOKABIGONE; 12-24-2021, 04:50 PM.
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That's a bummer. I wish there was a cheap way to get rid of sodium. It makes me feel grateful for the Missouri river water we get here.
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Originally posted by Cali View PostI use the boogie blue plus+ Hose filter. Not sure what the Ppm is but my plants don’t seem to mind it. I have to say I used to add ascorbic acid which is only vitamin c powder to the water to neutralize the chloramines which don’t off has like chlorine Will over night. Now I just let the water jugs sit open over night to off gas chlorine’s and it works. You can also just use a handful of compost to neutralize the chloramines In the water and chlorine. I learned this from another grower here who posted a link to a YouTube channel called PlantAbundance he teaches all about organic gardening. I recommend anyone who likes gardening to watch his videos very informative.
Thanks again!!
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I use the boogie blue plus+ Hose filter. Not sure what the Ppm is but my plants don’t seem to mind it. I have to say I used to add ascorbic acid which is only vitamin c powder to the water to neutralize the chloramines which don’t off has like chlorine Will over night. Now I just let the water jugs sit open over night to off gas chlorine’s and it works. You can also just use a handful of compost to neutralize the chloramines In the water and chlorine. I learned this from another grower here who posted a link to a YouTube channel called PlantAbundance he teaches all about organic gardening. I recommend anyone who likes gardening to watch his videos very informative.
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Originally posted by UndergroundFarmer View PostI'm late to this thread and luckily you've already been steered to Build-A-Soil's channel. Just make sure you don't add pH adjusters to the plants' water. pH Down will kill off the fungi and microbes that make living soil (or any organic method) work. I fill a few buckets ahead of watering and by the time I use it, the water has sat at least 24 hours with an airstone going in it to keep it from going funky.
The answer was a resounding, No! Do not use it. Anything over 50ppm of sodium is toxic in irrigation water and desired is 20ppm. If it was 49, I’d probably use it. I’m not at 70 now that they’ve advised. I’ll do rain buckets in spring and summer. Can’t here in NE now, or at least I wouldn’t know how to do it. I’ll have to work on that next. For now, my sister is 5mins away, and I’ll get a small boy carbon filter.
I could buy a product that will help. It’s $160 and by my math will treat 160-320 gallons of water. Yea, cheaper than bottles but no, not doing that.
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I am obviously just trying to catch up on these and learn the ropes and was replying in wrong places (now deleted). I don’t really love these forums but this one is so informative. I just don’t want to stress people who disagree on things because what they’re doing I know works for them. I found a way for me, that I’m going to love doing, when it’s right and in proper containers for it. I do not need to PH, as explained above. I know it’s foreign to all growers for all of time. Haha. I get that. I just want you and others to know I do not ignore advice and blow it off. If I think it was told differently I’ll ask to discuss it. With this, everyone making, mixing, and using, says not to PH. I’m just going to stick with it until I see a reason not too. It’s soil, it’s nothing new and revolutionary, it’s just a different way of, mixing, and caring for it. I’m not going to force nutes in water. That will be fresh. They’ll take it when they want.
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The pots they are in right now are just simply Root Pouch fabric pots, yes. The newest pots, have a liner either inside or outside to prevent the overdrying. In all sizes, and each company is doing it differently. They weren’t here when promised and it was time. The ones I have that will now be used outdoors are coated on the outside, made by the original “Root Maker” people. They’re all the same price comparatively etc. That’s all scratched and I’m doing earth boxes, because I will get full soil benefits and be able to move them easier. Just overthinking so it’s done right. Not thinking it through fully is what got me here. I get your point though and do it a bunch. Part of it is getting differing answers but I’m also learning what’s true for one is not the same for another, and I have to see what fits my situation and use it all.
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I'm sorry dilvish but I have to disagree on the pH based on recent experience. I checked pH just before I planted them to find pH 7.3 from my filtered tap water which is in a range the soil can correct. I never did after that and had very healthy plants with never a leaf issue and good buds ultimately! This is directly due to a healthy microbial colony in the roots as a symbiote to trade processed nutrients (microbe poop!) for the plant produced glucose sugars. This allows the plant to use the energy for flower development that would be used if it had to process it's own raw organics and minerals to a usable form with a nutrient tuned pH regimen. Their poop is in a form that is available for immediate uptake by the roots and sent directly up for the plants to use. One issue with commercially produced "Living Soil" is they are blended with so little good amendments, they last only a couple of weeks. That's why i choose to mix my own to last the entire grow with supplemental teas to refresh what is known as the Clackamas Coots recipe for living soil. Recipes are online as well as in my just completed journal, The Auto Toka grow.
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Originally posted by UndergroundFarmer View PostI'm late to this thread and luckily you've already been steered to Build-A-Soil's channel. Just make sure you don't add pH adjusters to the plants' water. pH Down will kill off the fungi and microbes that make living soil (or any organic method) work. I fill a few buckets ahead of watering and by the time I use it, the water has sat at least 24 hours with an airstone going in it to keep it from going funky.
I do have a sodium level of 70ppm from the source. I’ve read articles that say anything over 50 is toxic to plants and in the 20’s is cool. I’ve also read it can be tough over time for our soil. Everyone looks at me like I’m crazy. Haha. Maybe I am. I’m just trying to learn and keep it going. The first 2 of my “earth boxes” arrived today so I’ll be getting those setup. I’m so busy right now I’m not sure how but it has to happen. My legs are jelly and I’m falling apart. Next run the tent comes down here. I don’t need an office. 😎
Thank you! ✌️
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Ya know you over think alot of this. Those look like fabric pots nothing special about them. Keep it short and simple.
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I'm late to this thread and luckily you've already been steered to Build-A-Soil's channel. Just make sure you don't add pH adjusters to the plants' water. pH Down will kill off the fungi and microbes that make living soil (or any organic method) work. I fill a few buckets ahead of watering and by the time I use it, the water has sat at least 24 hours with an airstone going in it to keep it from going funky.
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Ok: so, this is why I need to say things out loud, take in the feedback, then think about them a bit before I make the moves that are best for me. I take every single suggestion with the same weight and appreciate them all.
30gal pots, for a guy who’s had 4 back surgeries and is full of metal and in pain a lot (no sympathy, just stating, been too long to feel badly, I’m good 🤣). Is going to be too much. What if I have to move them for any reason? The water they’ll take needs to be carried up etc.
I am using pots designed to keep moisture in and root trap, not air prune etc. I also will not be using any single pots for all that long. Even if I germ right in final pot. I can’t do that because the soil is too much. I have the lighter formula for next run so mediums are matched. It can and will just need a good recharge and a little time before the next use, as opposed to right away. I’m going to go with 7’s.
The 30’s will not go to waste because I believe they may grow me some fairly large outdoor girls this summer. I still need that fence though and have spent it all. Haha. I had to scrounge for Christmas presents for others. I still had them go in on something too expensive for me and not really necessary. The light controller. Haha.
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Originally posted by Rwise View PostI hate to say it but watch for that one to be male, these are what a male does. That does no mean it is a male, just watch close.
Thank you!
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