Entering 5th wk bloom cycle leaves have brown spots on 2 buds.

[bumper55]

Hello everybody, newbie here and I have a question in regard to some browning of leaves under the bud that appear to be browning. I'm not sure if this is a normal when a plant is beginning the last few week of the bloom cycle. It isn't wide spread and it doesn't appear to have gotten larger or infected any other areas the plant but it's not the time for there to be a fungus or mold right now. Any suggestions is welcomed and thanks ahead.

[DW2]

Hello bumper55, it looks like some lite or just beginning of some nutrient burn (the brown leaf tips). I could not see the 'brown spots' on the bub, it looks as if some of the pistils are turning amber. What are the details of Your grow, soil,hydro, and lights, etc.? Can not tell for certain what the problem might be without knowing all of the information.

[Weasel]

The dead tips are from nute burn. The brown patches on the leaves look a bit like boron deficiency to me.

http://www.growweedeasy.com/boron-deficiency-cannabis

Which in my experience is usually a symptom of high ph. But it could also maybe be, uhhhh... something else. Like DW2 said- more info on the grow would be helpful.

[bumper55]

thank you for the link. I'm using GH Flora Trio and have been running the ppm @ 1500 as per GH schedule. The micro grow should have taken care of the boron problem I think.

[bumper55]

Thank you for your response. I have 3 indica hybrid Diablo strain in a DWC system with a 10 gallon Res. for 6 gallons of nutes. I have the plants under 400w HPS 12/12 where 2 of the plants are 4 wk going on 5 and one plant that is 5 wks going on 6 wks. The plant that have the brown spots near the bud is the older 5 - 6 wk plant only. I'm using the GH Trio Flora series with Magical and Hydroguard supplements. I check the ppm once a day and the ph morning and evening. I've kept the ph between 5.9 - 6.0 (target 5.9 ph). Nutrient solution is as per GH which is between 800 -1500 pm. I changed the ppm from 1500 deciding to run the nutes 1300 ppm 2 wks ago for the tip burn on the leaves. I also have stretched the res. change time from 7 days to 10 monitoring ppm changes. I have to top off 1/2 gallon of water daily. I have kept the temp. between 80- 86 degrees, but tent temps drop 20+ deg at night and the humidity remains high. I believe it could be contributing to evaporation and the need for the 1/2 gallon top off, but it's a very wet winter here in SoCal. Thanks for your input and I added more pics.

[DW2]

bumper55,Your plants look very healthy to me, nice job. You might want to intentionally let the pH fluctuate to allow the nutrients to be picked up by the plant, I've read that different nutrients are absorbed at varying pH levels. I do not assume to know all of the science involved, but letting the pH vary a bit (stay between 5.5 and 6.5) sure has reduced the stress levels on Me! lol You have a very nice looking set up, your reservoirs look just like mine, right down to the silver duct tape! Great minds surely must run in the same gutters! LOL!
Good luck with your grow.

[Weasel]

I suspect it's mostly overfeeding. Nutrient are in the form of salts and too much in the system will dry out your leaves the same as overheating will- as salt likes to do. Not sure what your EC/ppm conversion rate is (mine is .500) but in general 1500 ppm is high. A few people get away with it but most don't. I've never got past 1300 for even the heaviest feeders without burning. I don't personally like to run my plants at maximum nute levels, but certainly many people do, so that's more of a personal choice based on your situation and there's no point comparing apples and oranges. I can't read anything else from your details that sounds like a problem.

[bumper55]

Thanks for you response, it makes me feel better because I'm thinking I have another 2or 3 wks to go for both plants. I'm a newbie I understand ppm readings but the calibration question confuses me sometime when I'm asked about calibrating it. I would only have to calibrate my ph meter if the battery dies? However I'm using a Health Metric TDS/EC meter which calculates both to give me either reading including the auto temp in F or C calculating temp in the readings. The meter has a range from 0 - 5000 ppm. The ppms of my local water is 270 ppm and I make nute adjustment when I mix it. I have decided to keep everything nominal @ 1100 ppms on the next grow What do you think?

[Weasel]

It was conversion rates that I was talking about. Not calibration. Kind of confusing to explain. Here is a thread on which it's been discussed already. http://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/...esolved-solids

I always keep nutes as low as possible and only bump them up slightly if the plants are showing issues. If they look happy then I don't. You'll usually end up giving them minor nute burn at some point but run the same strain a few times and you'll figure out their needs. My pure sativa strains can't take 750 ppm without getting burnt. Pineapple Chunk starts showing deficiencies at less than 1100-1200 ppm. So it varies a little - mostly based on how much indica or sativa they are but also on your environment and other things.

[bumper55]

Got it. and I'm sorry i muddied the mix with the confusion of calibration and TDS ppm measures. I'm on target with keeping these ladies @ 1000-1100 ppm with a longer period, allowing the ppms to drop closer to 800 before refreshing the res.next grow. Thanks this helped