What I am going to detail is the build of a 44" 16 module LED grow-light, at the end of the write up I will include a parts list and where I bought the parts. Note this is not an endorsement nor a recommendation as to where to buy the parts.
It's ratings are input power 9.5 VDC @ 120 watts, the LED's are rated for 10 watts, but rather than push them to the max I have them running at around 80%.
The modules are 9 Chips On Board (COB) grow-light module, with two peaks in violet/blue and red.
Cooling is provided by a aluminum 2' X 3" x 44" rectangular tube with forced fan cooling.
The tube (which was scrap), was prepared by sanding the module surface beginning with 120 grit and finishing with 800 grit, this ensures all oxidation is removed and the modules have a nice flat and smooth surface to be mounted to, this is an important step to ensure good conduction of heat from the modules to the tubing where it can be dissipated into the air in the grow room. By the way this step should be done even if the tubing is brand new from a supplier.
Once surface prep was completed, the surface was marked out indicating the locations of the modules and where the module fasteners needed to be, then it was off to the drill press, 32 holes where drilled with a #43 bit, they were de-burred and then tapped with a 4-40 thread.
The tube was turned over and five 2" holes where drilled through the back of the lamp, 4 of these would be used for fans and the center one as a vent.
Each module location was given a dap of heat sink compound, the module set in place and fastened down with two 4-40 socket head machine screws with a washer to spread out the torque.
Once the modules where all in place I began the process of installing the current carrying buss's, the negative buss's where left un-insulated, why un-insulated, being negative the don't present any electrical hazard.
The buss's where fabricated from #14 AWG stranded copper conductor which is tin plated, tin plating is handy as it solders much more easier than bare copper and in a high humidity environment, like a grow room will not corrode.
This type of conductor can be found all over e-bay at a decent price, it commonly sold insulated, but that can be peeled off easy with a box cutter leaving you with the conductor you want.
The modules where pre-tinned, this step is done to lower the amount of time it takes to solder the buss conductor to the module, reducing the chances of damaging the module during the soldering process, in addition the buss conductor was also pre-timed with standard 60/40 rosin core solder, pre-tinning the conductor also greatly reduces the amount of time it takes to solder the buss to the module tab..
A two position terminal strip was added at one of the tube and the negative buss's where bridged and connected to the terminal strip, at this step heat shrink tubing was placed over the conductors where they will eventually physically touch the positive buss's.
Low voltage plus high amperage crossed equals smoke, and not the kind of smoke anyone would want to inhale, therefore where conductors cross, I double insulate them.
Then the positive buss's where installed, but with sleeves of heat shrink to provide insulation on the hot side, again the goal being no sparking and arcing and no smoke.
The positive buss was bridged and connected to the terminal strip, completing the LED portion of the project.
I did a quick electrical test and all of the modules illuminated, good deal.
Flipped over the tube and then installed the fans, now I should have used #6 machine screws but lacked any in my screw tray and a trip to the local hardware store is a 55 mile drive, so I Suthen Engineered and used 1 5/8 drywall screws, they ain't pretty but the fans are not going anywhere
By the way most of these fans come in either 5 VDC or 12 VDC or higher, my lamps are running on 9.5 VDC, as such I decided rather then use 12 VDC fans 2.5 VDC low I used 5 VDC fans wired in a series /parallel, that way they are 10 VDC fans and only running .5 VDC low.
With the fans completed the tube was flipped back over the fans where connected to the buss and then it was time to give it a try.
The first shot in the grow room shows the light only, next shot is the LED light with the flo's on as well, the last shot shows the timer, LED power supply, switched outlets, all wired to Code.
Parts list.
Cost of the lamp not including labor, 16 LED modules @ $2.95 each $47.20, of course after I bought my LED they dropped the price to $2.25. ;-)
Power supply for a single lamp $15.00
Fans $12.00
Aluminum tube in scrap bin $0.00, found locally maybe $15, online you get screwed $40 + shipping.
Wire $3.00
Hardware $7.00 plus shipping, unless can be found locally
So for about $90, you get a real, not Chinese watts, 120 watt force cooled lamp, which according to my light readings is putting out about 10,600 lumens, but is probably high as my light meter wants a broad spectrum of light, not two peaks of light.
Any questions, comments or suggestions, please reply and hopefully this will help someone else out there who is working on such a project.
Parts List.
LED modules https://www.mpja.com/LED-Grow-Light-...info/34610+OP/
Power supply for a single lamp https://www.mpja.com/9-Volt-Power-Su...info/18367+PS/
Button head screws https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-De...?product=13025
Fans https://www.mpja.com/5VDC-2-3_8in-Sq...info/33704+FN/
Washers https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-De...x?product=5563
On-line metal suppliers, warning high prices and shipping isn't inexpensive either, but if you have no choice on-line is better than driving a 100 miles or so for a tube of aluminum.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...268&top_cat=60
https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4672...-aluminum.aspx
It's ratings are input power 9.5 VDC @ 120 watts, the LED's are rated for 10 watts, but rather than push them to the max I have them running at around 80%.
The modules are 9 Chips On Board (COB) grow-light module, with two peaks in violet/blue and red.
Cooling is provided by a aluminum 2' X 3" x 44" rectangular tube with forced fan cooling.
The tube (which was scrap), was prepared by sanding the module surface beginning with 120 grit and finishing with 800 grit, this ensures all oxidation is removed and the modules have a nice flat and smooth surface to be mounted to, this is an important step to ensure good conduction of heat from the modules to the tubing where it can be dissipated into the air in the grow room. By the way this step should be done even if the tubing is brand new from a supplier.
Once surface prep was completed, the surface was marked out indicating the locations of the modules and where the module fasteners needed to be, then it was off to the drill press, 32 holes where drilled with a #43 bit, they were de-burred and then tapped with a 4-40 thread.
The tube was turned over and five 2" holes where drilled through the back of the lamp, 4 of these would be used for fans and the center one as a vent.
Each module location was given a dap of heat sink compound, the module set in place and fastened down with two 4-40 socket head machine screws with a washer to spread out the torque.
Once the modules where all in place I began the process of installing the current carrying buss's, the negative buss's where left un-insulated, why un-insulated, being negative the don't present any electrical hazard.
The buss's where fabricated from #14 AWG stranded copper conductor which is tin plated, tin plating is handy as it solders much more easier than bare copper and in a high humidity environment, like a grow room will not corrode.
This type of conductor can be found all over e-bay at a decent price, it commonly sold insulated, but that can be peeled off easy with a box cutter leaving you with the conductor you want.
The modules where pre-tinned, this step is done to lower the amount of time it takes to solder the buss conductor to the module, reducing the chances of damaging the module during the soldering process, in addition the buss conductor was also pre-timed with standard 60/40 rosin core solder, pre-tinning the conductor also greatly reduces the amount of time it takes to solder the buss to the module tab..
A two position terminal strip was added at one of the tube and the negative buss's where bridged and connected to the terminal strip, at this step heat shrink tubing was placed over the conductors where they will eventually physically touch the positive buss's.
Low voltage plus high amperage crossed equals smoke, and not the kind of smoke anyone would want to inhale, therefore where conductors cross, I double insulate them.
Then the positive buss's where installed, but with sleeves of heat shrink to provide insulation on the hot side, again the goal being no sparking and arcing and no smoke.
The positive buss was bridged and connected to the terminal strip, completing the LED portion of the project.
I did a quick electrical test and all of the modules illuminated, good deal.
Flipped over the tube and then installed the fans, now I should have used #6 machine screws but lacked any in my screw tray and a trip to the local hardware store is a 55 mile drive, so I Suthen Engineered and used 1 5/8 drywall screws, they ain't pretty but the fans are not going anywhere
By the way most of these fans come in either 5 VDC or 12 VDC or higher, my lamps are running on 9.5 VDC, as such I decided rather then use 12 VDC fans 2.5 VDC low I used 5 VDC fans wired in a series /parallel, that way they are 10 VDC fans and only running .5 VDC low.
With the fans completed the tube was flipped back over the fans where connected to the buss and then it was time to give it a try.
The first shot in the grow room shows the light only, next shot is the LED light with the flo's on as well, the last shot shows the timer, LED power supply, switched outlets, all wired to Code.
Parts list.
Cost of the lamp not including labor, 16 LED modules @ $2.95 each $47.20, of course after I bought my LED they dropped the price to $2.25. ;-)
Power supply for a single lamp $15.00
Fans $12.00
Aluminum tube in scrap bin $0.00, found locally maybe $15, online you get screwed $40 + shipping.
Wire $3.00
Hardware $7.00 plus shipping, unless can be found locally
So for about $90, you get a real, not Chinese watts, 120 watt force cooled lamp, which according to my light readings is putting out about 10,600 lumens, but is probably high as my light meter wants a broad spectrum of light, not two peaks of light.
Any questions, comments or suggestions, please reply and hopefully this will help someone else out there who is working on such a project.
Parts List.
LED modules https://www.mpja.com/LED-Grow-Light-...info/34610+OP/
Power supply for a single lamp https://www.mpja.com/9-Volt-Power-Su...info/18367+PS/
Button head screws https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-De...?product=13025
Fans https://www.mpja.com/5VDC-2-3_8in-Sq...info/33704+FN/
Washers https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-De...x?product=5563
On-line metal suppliers, warning high prices and shipping isn't inexpensive either, but if you have no choice on-line is better than driving a 100 miles or so for a tube of aluminum.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...268&top_cat=60
https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4672...-aluminum.aspx
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