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**Campesino** · 06-10-2018, 08:36 PM

Sub'd and happy to follow along!

Read this on TMV and see if it looks the same to you: https://www.growweedeasy.com/tobacco...s-tmv-cannabis

I also bet that IslandColas would be interested in this grow.

Cheers Dr.Moggs , You've come to the right place!

**IslandColas** · 06-10-2018, 10:37 PM

Do you have a water chiller? Those temps are WAY to high unless you’re running a chiller. If your taking temps from a main reservoir that is located outside the tent they will be inaccurate to the temps in your buckets at your root zone. I would love to see your root health to see what’s going on under the hood. Roots will tell you a lot in DWC. Other than that your readings seemed fine.

Unless you have a digital PH monitor AND doser as well as some form of nutrient solution temperature control, you cannot leave a hydroponic system unmonitored. So many things happen when temps change and ph is wrong and because it’s hydro those problems will effect your plant within hours let alone days! Then those problems are amplified exponentially the longer the problem is not resolved.

Hydro is very sensitive but they also bounce back quickly. Unfortunately I’d say those girls in flower are irreversible but you can limp them to harvest. I’m not even going to address nutrients and ratios because I don’t believe nutrients are really the problem. You may have had a deficiency or some kind of lockout like the other guys were saying but after the 6 day absence it’s irrelevant.

Get back on your feed schedule. Get your temps and ph back to cherry and then address problems that continue to worsen. Check your roots, CHANGE THE RESERVOIR ASAP, and get back to somewhat of a “fresh start”.

Never leave your system unattended ever again. If you’re someone who requires to travel and you’re still set on a DWC hydro setup you will need to invest near 1000 dollars in some digital monitoring and dosing equipment as well as a water thermometer outlet monitoring your water temps and turning on your chiller whenever needed. THEN you’ll still need a trusted buddy to do a reservoir change if you’re planning on being away longer than a week.

I’m pro hydro and run DWC as well so don’t get discouraged, But you have to be committed to the daily checks if you want premium hydro buds!

**IslandColas** · 06-10-2018, 10:44 PM

In addition to my previous reply. If this is your first run with any kind of hydro I would change nutrients to something much simpler to mix. Find a premixed nutrient, I love Botanicare pro blend grow/flower for my base. Then I’ll add micros and whatever specific nutrients I want for the specific crop. Much easier and simpler for the first timer. Then once you get good you can play with exact ratios. It’s also a whole lotta work!!!

**Dr.Moggs** · 06-11-2018, 01:07 PM

[ First update ]
So far I can't se any more bad signs on my plants, I rather think they look a bit happier today.
I'll post some pictures of my roots, IslandColas

These pictures are from the sick plants and one is from the healty ones.

Here is two better pictures of my staind leafs.

I bought two table fans today that I will place in the bottom of my tents, I haven't had any fans under the leafs and I think this will help to keep the air fresh and in right temperature.

Any thoughts ?

**Dr.Moggs** · 06-11-2018, 05:06 PM

How should I proceed in my Wilma system ?
Setup 2:

The plants are in beginning of week 4 veg.

I'm thinking about having these in veg at least 5 weeks and introducing them to a scrog net soon and starting LST.
When should I do this ?
Is Scrog the best way to go ?

What can I do about them growing in such a different speed?

I'm thinking about if I should throw the weakest plants and just continue with the strongest, now I have 14 plants in my 120×120 tent.

![/QUOTE]

**Obi-Wan** · 06-11-2018, 06:34 PM

Campesino Thanks for the mention.

Hi Dr. Moggs, so as Camp said I run dwc and prefer my water temps to be warmer, 75-78 F is my sweet spot. The thing is plants take up nutrients more efficiently when the water temp is within 5 degrees of the ambient room temperature. The problem becomes supplying the root zone with adequate levels of O2 at higher water temperatures. Water holds progressively less dissolved oxygen as the temperature increases so it’s harder to achieve the appropriate O2 levels when the water temps are higher......harder but not impossible. The main concern with higher water temperatures is Pythium, a bacteria that is associated with root rot. Pythium is an opportunistic bacteria that attacks unhealthy plant roots, it multiplies rapidly and can destroy a root system quickly. The thing is, it doesn’t attack healthy roots, the presence of Pythium in larger numbers is a symptom of a sick root system, not the cause, as is widely believed. Causes of unhealthy root systems can vary from high EC, pH issues, old & or low quality nutrient solution and more commonly inadequate O2 levels in the nutrient solution. Once your roots are sick Pythium will strike regardless of your water temperatures. Pythium is known to be present in all sources of water and can survive at temperatures as low as 50F. The only true way to combat Pythium is to maintain a healthy root system. I am in no way discounting or trying to contradict IslandColas advice about a water chiller and keeping the water cooler, as it’s far easier to manage dissolved Oxygen levels in cooler water.

With that said, it appears as though you have a healthy root system and I would chalk up your recent issues to your pH going out of range, but I have a couple questions regarding your rdwc setup. Are you running airstones in each individual bucket and if so how strong is your air pump? How large are your recirculating supply lines to the buckets and how strong is the pump? Does your system actively circulate the nutrient solution similar to a current culture system or is it a more passive circulation like a top-fed dwc? I ask because I’m curious about your dissolved O2 levels. Your roots indicate that they are getting what they need but adding more could be a lot cheaper than a water chiller if there is room to increase the O2 levels.

**Redwasp** · 06-11-2018, 08:45 PM

Since you have the plants you keep them all and can go with a sea of green. But i wouldnt let them veg much longer. How tall is your tent? A sea of green can make great yields in the long run because of the shorter time in veg. Hard to tell from the pictures of the actual size but they will get alot bigger when you flip to 12/12. Ive had some triple in height. Then again ive had some not get much taller at all. Both still made good yields. If needed if one gets much taller than the others you can super crop it or use lst but in that tight space not much room for lst.

Next time i would probably go with alot less plants unless you decide you like the sea of green. But unless you do clones that may get expensive seed wise.

**Dr.Moggs** · 06-12-2018, 03:55 AM

Originally posted by Obi-Wan View Post

Campesino Thanks for the mention.

With that said, it appears as though you have a healthy root system and I would chalk up your recent issues to your pH going out of range, but I have a couple questions regarding your rdwc setup. Are you running airstones in each individual bucket and if so how strong is your air pump? How large are your recirculating supply lines to the buckets and how strong is the pump? Does your system actively circulate the nutrient solution similar to a current culture system or is it a more passive circulation like a top-fed dwc? I ask because I’m curious about your dissolved O2 levels. Your roots indicate that they are getting what they need but adding more could be a lot cheaper than a water chiller if there is room to increase the O2 levels.

Thanks Obi-Wan
I have understod the importance with oxygen in my reservoir and have an separat airstone in each pot.
The air-pump pumps 3600 L/h or 60L/min.
The mainlines between the pots are 25 mm in diameter and the returnpipe are 13 mm.
The waterpump pumps 1050 L/H

I am not sure about what you mean with your last question but I'll try to answer it.
My system pumps the water around in the system all the time and it changes water in the pots 2-3 times per hour.
I have built the system my self so I'm open for all type of feedback.

I'll upload an easy design of my setup.

Reading about reservoirs with higher temperatures than what normally is seen as the gold-lock zone was nice, I'll still consider buying an chiller but that feels like an investment for the future.

Do you think I need more oxygen in my water ?

**Redwasp** · 06-12-2018, 08:04 AM

Unless there is over crowding I would leave all the plants. Make sure all are females obviously. But id try to keep them all now that you have them. You never know when one might turn hermie, one might get sick, etc and may have to remove them. Also if a few are that weak and slow growing the others will just crowd them out completely. You can remove them if they do.

Others may have different opinions but thats mine. Dont get rid of any until you just have to.

**Redwasp** · 06-12-2018, 08:46 AM

Oh that being said the yields are based directly on the total space filled by the plants. In theory you should get the same total yield whether or not you have 4 plants that completley fill a set amount of space or you have 15 plants filling that same space. SOG works because you can have a quicker turnaround since you do not need to veg them very long. I usually veg mine 8 weeks or more and grow fewer plants but they get massive. A sog setup will cut the total time taken from start to finish by 4 weeks or more. In bit over a year or so, depending on strain, a SOG can have for example 4 grows completed vs 3 for the way i grow.

Now if you go to auto plants that no longer holds true. They work on their own timetable.

**Obi-Wan** · 06-12-2018, 12:21 PM

In a well designed recirculating system the water will be falling down from above the functioning water level in each bucket, creating a waterfall effect. It is this waterfall effect that acts as a secondary source of O2.

IslandColas I agree that my method is not for everyone and could be detrimental if practiced without a good understanding of hydroponic systems, water temperatures, O2 levels, and how they effect one another. However when the grower understands the relationship between water temperature and O2 levels, they will also understand that their plant’s root system is at no greater risk at 78F than it is at 68F. Pythium is present at both temperatures and will strike at both temperatures if given the opportunity. The only role water temperature plays in the equation is that it acts to define to the grower how much O2 they need to provide. A healthy root system is the plants best defense against Pythium. The root system functions at a higher capacity and the growth of the root system is more rapid at temperatures at or above 73F, as long as the grower can provide the O2 levels required by the plant. I don’t believe that my plants are at any greater risk because I keep the temperature of my nutrient solution higher, I actually believe that my root systems are healthier and better equipped to prevent a Pythium attack because I keep my nutrient solution warmer. It is very much like the plants ability to withstand higher ambient room temperatures when the environment is supplemented with appropriate co2 levels.

**Obi-Wan** · 06-12-2018, 08:44 PM

There are a few different designs of undercurrent systems, some like yours, simply circulate water throughout the various buckets in the system using the same pipes. In a system like this there is a constant current of water pumped through all the buckets, but little to no surface agitation. Another design builds off of yours by adding a supply line just above the water level of each bucket. In a system like this, the lower lines pull water from the buckets back to the control bucket, while the supply line pours it into the individual buckets. Both systems have there pros and cons.

Given the the lack of surface agitation in your system you may want to invest in another air pump so you can double up, given that your running so many buckets.

**Dr.Moggs** · 06-14-2018, 03:30 PM

[ Update Two ]
I'll start this update with a picture, LOOK AT THIS BEUTY!

This post will be the update regarding my RDWC. The system with two separate tent. I'll make an separate post for the update on the tent with the Wilma-system to make discussion easier.

You who have been following my grow since i made my first post here know I have had some issues that have resulted in stains and burns. The reasons for the burns and stains is speculated to come from PH-issues, high temperatures and lights to close to plants.

Today I changed my reservoirs and made an meticulous controll of my plants. This was the start of Week 7. Flowering.

The roots looks great and have no bad smells, they almost smells good!

These roots are on one of the smaller plant, on the bigger plants the roots are almost three times as big and will soon fill all of mine 20 L bucket. Amazing !

Tent one.
Tent one is the one without any SCRoG net, in this tent the size and height of the plants are very different.

So far it's almoast only in this tent I have found stains and burns. The stains aren't really spreading anymore but they have become "harder".

None of the plants with stains have spread to the buds. It's only the leafs that's affected.

I also have the burns. This type of stains I only find on the highest plants and on the leafs closest to the lamp.
I guess this can't heal....

My goal in this tent is to take the plants to harvest. But to be honest to myself and you guys , this tent is pure chaos.

Two of my biggest plants is equal to almoast 50 percent of the overall growth.

Feel free to ask and give advice !

Tent Two.
So tent two is part of the same RDWC as the other tent.
In here it looks so good.... not to talk about the smell😍
My babies are maturing and I am a proud parent.

In this tent everything feels good and I think I just should continue with what I am doing.
One thought i would like some advice in is that to do with the leafs and budsites that are under the SCRoG net. Should i let this be or should i cut it of to give energy to everything over the net ?

I have made two upgrades to these two tents, I have installed two tablefans on the floor of the tent, these are placed to take in some extra cold air from the outlet of the AC.
( something of an primitive installation)

What temperatures and humidity do you think is ideal?
I'm trying to be around 27 °C and 50 % humidity.

All input, questions and discussions are welcome!

Sit tight, update on the Wilma-system is on the way.

**Obi-Wan** · 06-14-2018, 03:50 PM

For the plants in the first tent I would remove all the damaged leaves so you can get an idea if the issue is resolved or not. The damaged leaves won’t get better and it appears as though the damage is limited to 5% or less of your total leaf mass.

As as far as cleaning up the lower sections of the plants in the second tent. I would say yes, remove any growth that doesn’t reach to within 1” of the underside of the netting. You have a beautiful canopy above the netting that will fill out nicely so anything under that 1” mark will only drain energy from the tops.

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First grow journal, first grow. 360 L RDWC+150 Wilma, White Widow

First grow journal, first grow. 360 L RDWC+150 Wilma, White Widow

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