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First grow journal, first grow. 360 L RDWC+150 Wilma, White Widow

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    First grow journal, first grow. 360 L RDWC+150 Wilma, White Widow

    Hello fellow growers.
    I have been a member on this site for a few weeks and I have learned a lot already. These weeks have also been eventful for my plants.

    I'll start with breaking up my setup and nutes:
    Setup 1:
    2 st. 150 × 150 cm tents.
    22 pot 360 L RDWC system.
    2 st Mars Hydro Cree 256.
    1 st 10 inch inline-fan with 2 rhino filters.
    4 12 v fans

    Setup 2:
    1 st 120 × 120 cm tent.
    1 st Mars Hydro Cree 235
    150 L Wilma drip to recycled system
    1 st mars hydro cree 256.
    1 st 5 inch fan with 1 st rhino filter.

    Seeds:
    Green House Seeds, White Widow, Feminized

    Nutrients:
    Goldlabel Part A
    Goldlabel Part B
    Goldlabel Ultra PK
    Goldlabel Ultra Mg
    Goldlabel Ultra N
    Goldlabel Ultra NK
    Goldlabel Ultra Roots
    Goldlabel Enzyme
    Goldlabel Ph down
    Advanced Nutrients Cal-Mag

    I'll attach the nutrientschedual I follow.
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    Everything had been going really well until about 6 days ago when I detected some stains, they came probably from an PH issue. I had been away from my plants for 6 days ( day I detected the stains) and came back to what I first saw as an disaster. After receiving some advice from here and working with the plants I still have hope to make them deliver some nice buds.
    During my leave I have had high temperatures in the tents and the PH have been out of zone.

    Lessons learned, you can't leave your babies alone that long 🙄

    Setup 1 is in Week 6 Flowering.
    PH - 5.8-6.2
    Watertemptrature: 23-24 °
    Tent temperature: Max 28.5
    Tent humidity: 40-60%

    "Setup 1." Is the one with two tents:

    One with ScrOG net:
    This tent still looks really healty, I have some minor stains on some of the plants in the ScrOG but I think they will recover now that I am back.
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    One with an soft big hole supportnet.
    HERE ARE THE REAL DAMAGE.

    1. My biggest plant had grown almost all the way in to the light? About 10 cm from the light and combined with the high temperatures been burned. I cutted of my main coala about 25 from the top-bud. After cutting it I taped it.
    I also bent the other high budsites to get them down.
    (Lession: start training my plants earlier to maintain an even canopy.)
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    2. Two of my plants have seourios cupperstains and some other have some minor stains of the same kind.
    The two plants with the worst damage is also the one I detected the stains on first. I have received ideas for the reason of the stains as:
    Ph Issue.
    Heat Issue.
    Cal-Mag diffency
    Tobacco Mosaic Virus
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    In this issue I would really appreciate some advice.

    Setup 2:
    This is my smaller tent with the drip system.
    PH - 5.2-5.6.
    Tent temperature: Max 28°
    Tent humidify: 50 %
    The plants are in beginning of week 4 veg. I have topped all of the plants and I can see the new coala coming out on all of them.
    I am thinking about introducing my plants to a ScrOG in the end of the week, but until then I will let them grow.

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    Is it common that plants grow in such different speed ? It was the same in with the two other tents. I believe they have the same conditions...

    The plants that are in flower now I only had in veg for 3 weeks, I'm thinking about having these in at least 5 weeks.
    In this tent I would appreciate some input on how to best prepare my plants for the ScrOG....
    What can I do about them growing in such a different speed?
    When should I switch to bloom?
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    This is my first hydroponic grow and it's amazing how quick things happens and how quick it can go from really great to scary stains and burned leafs.

    I hope I got most of it covered, ask if you wonder anything.

    Happy growing!

    #2
    Sub'd and happy to follow along!

    Read this on TMV and see if it looks the same to you: https://www.growweedeasy.com/tobacco...s-tmv-cannabis

    I also bet that IslandColas would be interested in this grow.

    Cheers Dr.Moggs , You've come to the right place!

    Comment


    • Campesino
      Campesino commented
      Editing a comment
      OK, well then consider lock-out as the cause, because you are giving Phosphoroous - but it can get locked out. May be all related to pH

    • IslandColas
      IslandColas commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Campesino !!! Happy to follow along

    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      I feel like after 6 Days away there isn't a real reson to speculate where stains and burns comes from. I rather just get all my values on point again and see how they progress from now.
      I just want to make it to harvest with my first grow. 😁

    #3
    Do you have a water chiller? Those temps are WAY to high unless you’re running a chiller. If your taking temps from a main reservoir that is located outside the tent they will be inaccurate to the temps in your buckets at your root zone. I would love to see your root health to see what’s going on under the hood. Roots will tell you a lot in DWC. Other than that your readings seemed fine.

    Unless you have a digital PH monitor AND doser as well as some form of nutrient solution temperature control, you cannot leave a hydroponic system unmonitored. So many things happen when temps change and ph is wrong and because it’s hydro those problems will effect your plant within hours let alone days! Then those problems are amplified exponentially the longer the problem is not resolved.

    Hydro is very sensitive but they also bounce back quickly. Unfortunately I’d say those girls in flower are irreversible but you can limp them to harvest. I’m not even going to address nutrients and ratios because I don’t believe nutrients are really the problem. You may have had a deficiency or some kind of lockout like the other guys were saying but after the 6 day absence it’s irrelevant.

    Get back on your feed schedule. Get your temps and ph back to cherry and then address problems that continue to worsen. Check your roots, CHANGE THE RESERVOIR ASAP, and get back to somewhat of a “fresh start”.

    Never leave your system unattended ever again. If you’re someone who requires to travel and you’re still set on a DWC hydro setup you will need to invest near 1000 dollars in some digital monitoring and dosing equipment as well as a water thermometer outlet monitoring your water temps and turning on your chiller whenever needed. THEN you’ll still need a trusted buddy to do a reservoir change if you’re planning on being away longer than a week.

    I’m pro hydro and run DWC as well so don’t get discouraged, But you have to be committed to the daily checks if you want premium hydro buds!
    Perpetual harvest
    Sealed Room
    Full hydro
    Ebb and Flow
    Hydroton Media
    600w HPS
    GH Nutrients

    Current Grow:
    https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...icture-journal

    Rozay SOG 9 plant 4x4:
    https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...icture-journal

    Comment


    • Campesino
      Campesino commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks man, but good advice... I wasn't thinking about how much bigger the res you're dealing with is. This is good for me to keep in mind in terms of giving advice to others!
      Learn - Grow - Share

    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      I'll be sure to get an chillar to my next grow, Will spare me from some frosty work and it seems like it Will be easy keeping my temperaturer at optimal level.

      My res is about 100 gallons so chilling it with ice dont do much difference. 😏
      I'm glad my roots still looks so fine after temperatures of up to 24°C/ 75°F.

    • Campesino
      Campesino commented
      Editing a comment
      Dr.Moggs If you can't keep it cool, you should talk to Obi-Wan ! He'll be able to give you some ideas for how to manage a warmer Res... He likes it that way and has amazing results!

    #4
    In addition to my previous reply. If this is your first run with any kind of hydro I would change nutrients to something much simpler to mix. Find a premixed nutrient, I love Botanicare pro blend grow/flower for my base. Then I’ll add micros and whatever specific nutrients I want for the specific crop. Much easier and simpler for the first timer. Then once you get good you can play with exact ratios. It’s also a whole lotta work!!!
    Perpetual harvest
    Sealed Room
    Full hydro
    Ebb and Flow
    Hydroton Media
    600w HPS
    GH Nutrients

    Current Grow:
    https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...icture-journal

    Rozay SOG 9 plant 4x4:
    https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...icture-journal

    Comment


    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      I didn't want to go with Gold label from the beginning. But where I live it's hard to find nutrients. Goldlabel however is easy to find to a good price.

      I am pretty handy and pretty smart so I think I can manage the nutes, i just can't leave my plants this long.

    • IslandColas
      IslandColas commented
      Editing a comment
      Try amazon, or local grow stores. I know you said there isn’t a whole lot where you live but many places will provide free shipping within state so if you could find something like that they’d be delivered to your door.

      You think you’ve got it bad!? I had to fly to Big Island for some Hydroguard!😂😂

      NebulaHaze I take your suggestions with weight. Couldn’t get Hydroguard, SM90, or great white roots shipped to island and the hydro store was 2+ months out on both hydro&sm90

      Made a point to stop by Ohana Greenhouse Supply on Big Island and bought 3 gallons before heading home!

    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      Gotta love your dedication for your plants, flying to get nutes. Impressive ! 😅
      Since my roots seems to stay healty I'll keep doing what I'm doing, when I change nutrientbrand I'll find a new way to stay on top with the roots.

    #5
    [ First update ]
    So far I can't se any more bad signs on my plants, I rather think they look a bit happier today.
    I'll post some pictures of my roots, IslandColas

    These pictures are from the sick plants and one is from the healty ones.

    Here is two better pictures of my staind leafs.
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    I bought two table fans today that I will place in the bottom of my tents, I haven't had any fans under the leafs and I think this will help to keep the air fresh and in right temperature.

    Any thoughts ?

    Comment


    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      I Believe the stains on the leafs are the aftermath from ph-issues. My Ultra PK is the chemical I use to regulate phosphor: "The Ultra PK formula prevents phosphorus from depositing at pH levels>6.2, promotes availability of Ca, Mg and trace elements"

    • Campesino
      Campesino commented
      Editing a comment
      Agreed! Just make sure it isn't still spreading!
      I think you are back on track!

    • IslandColas
      IslandColas commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks brotha, I really appreciate the photos! Those roots are awesome! I’d agree with Campesino you seem to be back on track.

    #6
    How should I proceed in my Wilma system ?
    Setup 2:

    The plants are in beginning of week 4 veg.

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    I'm thinking about having these in veg at least 5 weeks and introducing them to a scrog net soon and starting LST.
    When should I do this ?
    Is Scrog the best way to go ?

    What can I do about them growing in such a different speed?
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    I'm thinking about if I should throw the weakest plants and just continue with the strongest, now I have 14 plants in my 120×120 tent.

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    ![/QUOTE]

    Comment


    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      Well, that wasn't the plan from the beginning.
      Two of my tents are part of the same RDWC. Next grow I'll use the same techniques for the plants in the same system. I'll also be sure to implement the techniques earlier to get better controll of my canopy level.

      All of the three tents are in this thread, the thing I regret the most with my setup is buying separate tents and not one big tent. One big tent would make it much easier to work with the plants without to much obstacles.

    • Campesino
      Campesino commented
      Editing a comment
      I think you will become happy with having three tents rather than one big one. Increases your flexibility and will allow you to go perpetual - with different tents at different stages

    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      That's a great way to see it, that was the plan from the start. In the two tents I'll go with the same strain and same techniques since they all thrive in the same nutes.

      In my last tent my plan in to start growing some amazing and advanced strain.

      But first, I'll try to finish the ongoing grow in the best possible way.

    #7
    Campesino Thanks for the mention.

    Hi Dr. Moggs, so as Camp said I run dwc and prefer my water temps to be warmer, 75-78 F is my sweet spot. The thing is plants take up nutrients more efficiently when the water temp is within 5 degrees of the ambient room temperature. The problem becomes supplying the root zone with adequate levels of O2 at higher water temperatures. Water holds progressively less dissolved oxygen as the temperature increases so it’s harder to achieve the appropriate O2 levels when the water temps are higher......harder but not impossible. The main concern with higher water temperatures is Pythium, a bacteria that is associated with root rot. Pythium is an opportunistic bacteria that attacks unhealthy plant roots, it multiplies rapidly and can destroy a root system quickly. The thing is, it doesn’t attack healthy roots, the presence of Pythium in larger numbers is a symptom of a sick root system, not the cause, as is widely believed. Causes of unhealthy root systems can vary from high EC, pH issues, old & or low quality nutrient solution and more commonly inadequate O2 levels in the nutrient solution. Once your roots are sick Pythium will strike regardless of your water temperatures. Pythium is known to be present in all sources of water and can survive at temperatures as low as 50F. The only true way to combat Pythium is to maintain a healthy root system. I am in no way discounting or trying to contradict IslandColas advice about a water chiller and keeping the water cooler, as it’s far easier to manage dissolved Oxygen levels in cooler water.

    With that said, it appears as though you have a healthy root system and I would chalk up your recent issues to your pH going out of range, but I have a couple questions regarding your rdwc setup. Are you running airstones in each individual bucket and if so how strong is your air pump? How large are your recirculating supply lines to the buckets and how strong is the pump? Does your system actively circulate the nutrient solution similar to a current culture system or is it a more passive circulation like a top-fed dwc? I ask because I’m curious about your dissolved O2 levels. Your roots indicate that they are getting what they need but adding more could be a lot cheaper than a water chiller if there is room to increase the O2 levels.
    Last edited by Obi-Wan; 06-11-2018, 11:44 PM.
    Failure is an opportunity for improvement!!

    Comment


    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the advice ,

      Sounds like a high temperature doesn't always result in catastrophs but that will make my grows growing healthier and quicker with an smaller risk of root issues.

      My water temperature goes between 68 as lowest and 75 as highest.

      Happy growing !

    • Obi-Wan
      Obi-Wan commented
      Editing a comment
      IslandColas the single comment in the comment section from the article you posted highlights the issues with general/best practices in hydroponics or what is perceived as common knowledge. 1 liter per minute of air, providing .2 liters per minute of actual oxygen, is sufficient at 68F but if the temperature of the water is increased 10 degrees to 78F the O2 saturation capabilities of water is decreased by 50%. I agree that increased aeration at lower water temperatures can be detrimental but if we increase the water temperatures it is no longer detrimental it is necessary. I run a 60 liter per minute air pump for 20 gallons of nutrient solution at temps of 75-78, this provides 3 times the recommended aeration rate. If I dropped the aeration rate to the recommended 1 liter per minute, my roots would start to suffer from the lack of O2 and Pythium would attack. In my setup I am still only providing oxygen at a rate of .6 liters per minute, per gallon of nutrient solution. Aeration rates, water temperatures, and O2 levels in hydroponics are commonly looked at as static guidelines to be followed independently, when in reality they are symbiotic and should be increased and decreased together.

      Dr.Moggs if your water is under constant circulation and you also have air stones in each bucket I would say you have adequate oxygen in your solution.

    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      @Obi-Wan
      "@Dr.Moggs if your water is under constant circulation and you also have air stones in each bucket I would say you have adequate oxygen in your solution."
      I am running airstones in each bucket and the water constantly flows.
      I have been thinking about upgrading with stronger water and air pumps, and about a chiller. This discussion made the question alot bigger...🤔

    #8
    Since you have the plants you keep them all and can go with a sea of green. But i wouldnt let them veg much longer. How tall is your tent? A sea of green can make great yields in the long run because of the shorter time in veg. Hard to tell from the pictures of the actual size but they will get alot bigger when you flip to 12/12. Ive had some triple in height. Then again ive had some not get much taller at all. Both still made good yields. If needed if one gets much taller than the others you can super crop it or use lst but in that tight space not much room for lst.

    Next time i would probably go with alot less plants unless you decide you like the sea of green. But unless you do clones that may get expensive seed wise.

    Comment


    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Redwasp for your input.
      I'll go for the sea of green since I already have all the plants going and no where else to put them. I also understand this to be the best way to continue when you have many plants on a small area.

      My tent is 180 cm high. The strain of white widow from green house seeds is know for not growing that tall but growing short and dense.

    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      I just read the GWE tutorial of SoG.
      https://www.growweedeasy.com/sea-of-green

      That seems like the best way to go ahead with this tent. I have reservoir change on Thursday and will switch the lights to 12/12 then.

      Some of the plants are a bit bigger than what's recommended for the switch in the tutorial but I think it will work well anyways....?
      All of my ladies are topped so I guess it will be crowded.

      Maby i should throw my weakest two plants and continue with 12 of them. This way I'll be able to place the plants symmetrically:
      Almost like this: but like an perfect square on the Wilma System.
      X X X X
      X.......X
      X.......X
      X X X X

      What do you guys think ?

    #9
    Originally posted by Obi-Wan View Post
    Campesino Thanks for the mention.

    With that said, it appears as though you have a healthy root system and I would chalk up your recent issues to your pH going out of range, but I have a couple questions regarding your rdwc setup. Are you running airstones in each individual bucket and if so how strong is your air pump? How large are your recirculating supply lines to the buckets and how strong is the pump? Does your system actively circulate the nutrient solution similar to a current culture system or is it a more passive circulation like a top-fed dwc? I ask because I’m curious about your dissolved O2 levels. Your roots indicate that they are getting what they need but adding more could be a lot cheaper than a water chiller if there is room to increase the O2 levels.
    Thanks Obi-Wan
    I have understod the importance with oxygen in my reservoir and have an separat airstone in each pot.
    The air-pump pumps 3600 L/h or 60L/min.
    The mainlines between the pots are 25 mm in diameter and the returnpipe are 13 mm.
    The waterpump pumps 1050 L/H

    I am not sure about what you mean with your last question but I'll try to answer it.
    My system pumps the water around in the system all the time and it changes water in the pots 2-3 times per hour.
    I have built the system my self so I'm open for all type of feedback.

    I'll upload an easy design of my setup.

    Reading about reservoirs with higher temperatures than what normally is seen as the gold-lock zone was nice, I'll still consider buying an chiller but that feels like an investment for the future.

    Do you think I need more oxygen in my water ?


    Comment


    • IslandColas
      IslandColas commented
      Editing a comment
      A chiller is an investment in the future. An investment in your crops future. If you wait till you loose a crop to buy a chiller you’ll only be paying twice the cost because now you’ve lost the crop and start over.

    • Dr.Moggs
      Dr.Moggs commented
      Editing a comment
      @IslandColas
      Do I understand your comment correct if i see it as my plants get enough oxygen ?
      My pump pumps 60 LPM but the reservoir is in constant movement.

      I have noticed that my airpumps become a bit warm after being on 24/7. Now I have them in the coldest place of my room.

      All this insight and advice are awesome. This far I have learnt so much and I am thankful for this. I hope to be a Pro-Grower and be able to help other people out but at the same time doing monster grows for my self👍👌

      The cheapest chiller in my country is about 700 $ but I found some cheap ones on Amazon for about 250 $.
      My next grow will be with an Chiller and with Autos instead of regular and feminized seeds.

    • IslandColas
      IslandColas commented
      Editing a comment
      Dr.Moggs I won’t ever tell another grower that they’re wrong or that they must change their practices. The beauty of Cannabis Cultivation is the fact that there is so many ways to reach the same end goal. You and everyone I try to help through GWE can take or leave any information I put out. With that said I don’t feel comfortable ever telling a fellow hydroponic farmer (of any crop) to practice a method that could risk or even destroy their crop. Obi-Wan is 100% correct in what he is saying. The science behind O2 levels and temperatures he’s talking about is true. But he also cannot deny he’s playing a risky game with his crop. He has confidence in himself and his methods which have obviously worked for him. But I just cannot put my name behind telling you it’s okay to run hot or practice risky methods known for failing. Your weed is your weed and I encourage you to explore and play with any methods you would like because that’s what this game is about!!! I just couldn’t sleep at night if I woke up to you posting a horror scene due to advice I had given you.

      In my personal opinion you do not have enough air running through your system. At 60L per minute you’re just over half the recommended air flow. And that recommendation is for a 68 degree reservoir. If you’re running hot like Obi-Wan you’ll need even more air to keep optimal oxygenation. If you weren’t DWC I’d tell you you’re just about perfect but in my experience with DWC lettuce, lack of oxygen can be a growth stunt. Even if you’re getting enough oxygen to keep your reservoir from going anaerobic it doesn’t mean you’re providing optimal levels. I’d personally, double my output. Especially if you’re reservoir is running a little warm. I would bet the cost of the pump that you see improvement in growth and vitality. Then you bring those reservoir temps down to 68 degrees Fahrenheit and you’ll be outta this world impressed by whatever crop you grow (lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, marijuana😂) the pumps will run a little warm from friction but that’s to be expected. You did the right thing moving it to a cool spot. Way to cover ever little detail!!

    #10
    Unless there is over crowding I would leave all the plants. Make sure all are females obviously. But id try to keep them all now that you have them. You never know when one might turn hermie, one might get sick, etc and may have to remove them. Also if a few are that weak and slow growing the others will just crowd them out completely. You can remove them if they do.

    Others may have different opinions but thats mine. Dont get rid of any until you just have to.

    Comment


      #11
      Oh that being said the yields are based directly on the total space filled by the plants. In theory you should get the same total yield whether or not you have 4 plants that completley fill a set amount of space or you have 15 plants filling that same space. SOG works because you can have a quicker turnaround since you do not need to veg them very long. I usually veg mine 8 weeks or more and grow fewer plants but they get massive. A sog setup will cut the total time taken from start to finish by 4 weeks or more. In bit over a year or so, depending on strain, a SOG can have for example 4 grows completed vs 3 for the way i grow.

      Now if you go to auto plants that no longer holds true. They work on their own timetable.

      Comment


        #12
        In a well designed recirculating system the water will be falling down from above the functioning water level in each bucket, creating a waterfall effect. It is this waterfall effect that acts as a secondary source of O2.

        IslandColas I agree that my method is not for everyone and could be detrimental if practiced without a good understanding of hydroponic systems, water temperatures, O2 levels, and how they effect one another. However when the grower understands the relationship between water temperature and O2 levels, they will also understand that their plant’s root system is at no greater risk at 78F than it is at 68F. Pythium is present at both temperatures and will strike at both temperatures if given the opportunity. The only role water temperature plays in the equation is that it acts to define to the grower how much O2 they need to provide. A healthy root system is the plants best defense against Pythium. The root system functions at a higher capacity and the growth of the root system is more rapid at temperatures at or above 73F, as long as the grower can provide the O2 levels required by the plant. I don’t believe that my plants are at any greater risk because I keep the temperature of my nutrient solution higher, I actually believe that my root systems are healthier and better equipped to prevent a Pythium attack because I keep my nutrient solution warmer. It is very much like the plants ability to withstand higher ambient room temperatures when the environment is supplemented with appropriate co2 levels.
        Failure is an opportunity for improvement!!

        Comment


        • Dr.Moggs
          Dr.Moggs commented
          Editing a comment
          @Obi-wan
          "In a well designed recirculating system the water will be falling down from above the functioning water level in each bucket, creating a waterfall effect. It is this waterfall effect that acts as a secondary source of O2."
          Sry, Im not sure im following you on. Do you mean that the recirculated water should go down from the top in each bucket or just in the main bucket?
          My system is undercurrent:
          I have two holes in each side of the bucket, both in the bottom.
          The holes are 25 mm in diameter, these holes are connected to all of the buckets. After the last bucket the pipes connect and the water goes back in the bucket.
          The pump is placed in the main bucket so I guess i could adjust the water come out and fall down over the water surface. I know this would result in some extra O2 but I thought it would be negligible to what the airstones provide....?

        #13
        There are a few different designs of undercurrent systems, some like yours, simply circulate water throughout the various buckets in the system using the same pipes. In a system like this there is a constant current of water pumped through all the buckets, but little to no surface agitation. Another design builds off of yours by adding a supply line just above the water level of each bucket. In a system like this, the lower lines pull water from the buckets back to the control bucket, while the supply line pours it into the individual buckets. Both systems have there pros and cons.

        Given the the lack of surface agitation in your system you may want to invest in another air pump so you can double up, given that your running so many buckets.
        Failure is an opportunity for improvement!!

        Comment


        • Dr.Moggs
          Dr.Moggs commented
          Editing a comment
          I'll Will make some changes in my system when i am done with my ongoing grow. I'll buy One more 3600 L/H pump then. I guess the best thing to do is to get One more Stone in each bucket too.

        #14
        [ Update Two ]
        I'll start this update with a picture, LOOK AT THIS BEUTY!
        Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_203802.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.31 MB ID:	214698

        This post will be the update regarding my RDWC. The system with two separate tent. I'll make an separate post for the update on the tent with the Wilma-system to make discussion easier.

        You who have been following my grow since i made my first post here know I have had some issues that have resulted in stains and burns. The reasons for the burns and stains is speculated to come from PH-issues, high temperatures and lights to close to plants.

        Today I changed my reservoirs and made an meticulous controll of my plants. This was the start of Week 7. Flowering.

        The roots looks great and have no bad smells, they almost smells good!


        These roots are on one of the smaller plant, on the bigger plants the roots are almost three times as big and will soon fill all of mine 20 L bucket. Amazing !

        Tent one.
        Tent one is the one without any SCRoG net, in this tent the size and height of the plants are very different.

        So far it's almoast only in this tent I have found stains and burns. The stains aren't really spreading anymore but they have become "harder".



        None of the plants with stains have spread to the buds. It's only the leafs that's affected.

        I also have the burns. This type of stains I only find on the highest plants and on the leafs closest to the lamp.
        I guess this can't heal....
        Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_211321.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.43 MB ID:	214699

        My goal in this tent is to take the plants to harvest. But to be honest to myself and you guys , this tent is pure chaos.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_204024.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.53 MB ID:	214700
        Two of my biggest plants is equal to almoast 50 percent of the overall growth.

        Feel free to ask and give advice !

        Tent Two.
        So tent two is part of the same RDWC as the other tent.
        In here it looks so good.... not to talk about the smell😍
        My babies are maturing and I am a proud parent. Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_190740.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.71 MB ID:	214702Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_190753.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.97 MB ID:	214701Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_190747.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.50 MB ID:	214703

        In this tent everything feels good and I think I just should continue with what I am doing.
        One thought i would like some advice in is that to do with the leafs and budsites that are under the SCRoG net. Should i let this be or should i cut it of to give energy to everything over the net ?

        Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_222106.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.04 MB ID:	214704

        I have made two upgrades to these two tents, I have installed two tablefans on the floor of the tent, these are placed to take in some extra cold air from the outlet of the AC.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	20180614_204427.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.35 MB ID:	214705 ( something of an primitive installation)

        What temperatures and humidity do you think is ideal?
        I'm trying to be around 27 °C and 50 % humidity.

        All input, questions and discussions are welcome!

        Sit tight, update on the Wilma-system is on the way.
        Last edited by Dr.Moggs; 06-14-2018, 08:35 PM.

        Comment


        • Campesino
          Campesino commented
          Editing a comment
          Hey Dr.Moggs Looks good for the most part. Girls in tent 2 look great, and I do suggest lollipopping them below the net.
          https://www.growweedeasy.com/lollipo...nabis-tutorial

        • Dr.Moggs
          Dr.Moggs commented
          Editing a comment
          @Campesino
          Thanks for the guide. I will clean up under the netting in tent 2.

          I will also remove the sick leafs in tent 1. Beyond removing the sick leafs I will defoliate the plants to get better light penetration.

        #15
        For the plants in the first tent I would remove all the damaged leaves so you can get an idea if the issue is resolved or not. The damaged leaves won’t get better and it appears as though the damage is limited to 5% or less of your total leaf mass.

        As as far as cleaning up the lower sections of the plants in the second tent. I would say yes, remove any growth that doesn’t reach to within 1” of the underside of the netting. You have a beautiful canopy above the netting that will fill out nicely so anything under that 1” mark will only drain energy from the tops.
        Failure is an opportunity for improvement!!

        Comment


        • Dr.Moggs
          Dr.Moggs commented
          Editing a comment
          @Obi-Wan
          That's how I will continue, I'll take away all those leafs who are really staind or burned. Leaves with minimal stains I'll let be.
          Beyond removing staind leafs I will also trim some of my fan leafs to make the light penetrate better and shine on the budsites
          .
          In the second tent I will clean up the growth under the net. I'll take half of it today and half tomorrow to not stress the plants to much.

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