I think that the DWC feeding schedule is adjusted as my ppm are reasonable (950 at 8 weeks using tap water at 220ppm. For reference week 1 veg was 550-220=330ppm their feeding schedule is for MJ. But I am open to suggestions.
They offer feed schedules for coco top feed soil(though you wouldn't use a hydro nute in soil its another line), coco flood and drain as well as for DWC. in general DWC is 1/9 soil and 1/3 coco flood and about 1/5 coco top feed. If AN only gives 1 feed schedule you would have to know what it was for.
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Tazard I'm using AN nutes, and their feeding schedule is a constant after plants have left the tiny stage. But where they call for 4ml per liter, I usually use far less. I put in 30 ml of pH perfect trio today, and they called for more like 88 ml. I'm having good results using far below recommended nute dosage. I don't know what to link you to, but Nebula recommends using below what the companies recommend. -
Sorry but I am still off topic. Tat you mentioned less nutes? When they are eating less should I not maintain the feeding schedule? And if not can you detail what I should be doing? This past week I have been adding less nutrients than water ( if add 4gal a day only needs nutes for 3gal to return to 950ppm). Even a link for reference would be awesome. House and Garden feeding schedule remains constant beyond week 7 although it is only an 8 week flower schedule. -
Oh for sure you can
But depending on local conditions you can still be up to 10 days out just to dry. WC can still beat that.
But yea WC got me through until my first batch was dry the normal way, pulled enough to last a couple weeks while the majority gets a good cure. I would always choose the aesthetics over a WC except in certain situations/applications. It's a tool in the toolbox,
I'm in no way claiming to be an expert or more knowledgeable than Ed, hell, I'm a newbie, but I'm gonna disagree with him about cure increasing potency.
During the dry and cure the plant is still alive, it's converting chlorophyll and sugars, which means it's also aging which should mean the trichs are still maturing. That would mean many of those clear thrichs should be getting cloudy, which is the THC increasing in potency. Same for milky to amber. This all would seem to be correct in the light of there being a point where curing ceases to improve and degradation starts, that's when the plant has finally stopped and "died".
Again, Ed is the authority and I'm a newbie, but that statement seems incorrect to me. -
Well I sure as hell hope it ain't growin on his weed, either!!!!! -
Tazard, I am using such small amounts of nutes at the end of flowering. With the sativa, when she was done drying and I had her in jars, at around 62-64% RH she smoked great. Not sure if she smokes all that much better now because she was always SMOOOOOOOTH. Everyone who has smoked my home grown comments on how smooth it is. So curing does that magical thing, but all I'm saying is that when the bud is dry enough, it smokes good, before the extended cure.
"Curing is essential to the taste and experience of the finished buds. Like aged wines, well-cured buds are smooth and flavorful. Uncured buds will 'work' but are not nearly as enjoyable or desirable. However, curing does not make buds more potent than they already are." Ed Rosenthal, Marijuana Harvest, p. 167.
All I'm sayin is if you want to quick test your bud, or if you're all out of weed, you can smoke bud before it's completley cured. And get high. As a kite. -
Tazard NO freakin way do you have to wait 25 days post harvest!!! No way. I read in Rosenthal that the cure does what it does, but when bud's harvested and dry enough to smoke, them trichomes are ready to share their bounty. I started smoking/vaping my sativa as soon as it was dry enough and it totally do what it posed to do.
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