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How to train plants for bigger yields without any "techniques"

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    #16
    First I'd like to welcome you to the family. And let you know you have chosen a great place to obtain insightful knowledge from a great bunch of folks. You can learn as much as you want talking to the individuals on this site and the site itself is top notch full of knowledge. Happy Growing.
    Now as far as your question goes, as for me I only use CFL's for germination light and a bit of heat and early stage growth only long enough to get my girls big and old enough to place beneath my 600 watt HID's. I don't use CFL's for my entire grow so I'm not the one to speak with on this subject. You should read some of the tutorials and check out the site on different styles of grows, HID,CFL,T5,LED etc...
    Try this Link https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-grow-lights/#CFL

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      #17
      I’m curious as to the light footprint you would need for a single plant in the manifold configuration; I am contemplating a 30x30” tent with a 315 CMH. At 52w/sq.ft that should be plenty of light, but will the plant have enough room?

      Same question with regard to a fluxed plant: would it need a larger tent/box?

      Comment


      • Potted
        Potted commented
        Editing a comment
        How tall is the tent my CMH has to be 20” from canopy?

      #18
      I'm doing it this way. no trouble for now

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      • 9fingerleafs
        9fingerleafs commented
        Editing a comment
        great set up, very happy and healthy plants, i grow with cfls too. welcome to the best forum, we all love to help and we loooove pictures

      • Cll72
        Cll72 commented
        Editing a comment
        thank you, I'm sewing success to everyone

      #19
      Will take note of these. I'm planning to use CFL bulbs too

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        #20
        How late in the vegetative cycle can you bend or top plants? Mine are about 7.5 weeks into the cycle. A assume that this is to late for either technique? When is the optimum time to do these techniques?

        Comment


        • NuggetMan
          NuggetMan commented
          Editing a comment
          You can do it at any time... but best when your young ones are between 3-5 nodes high when topping and the second set of branches have grown out a bit. tie those down. If your just going to bend them over with no topping, you can do that anytime. The objective: more bud points.

        • SoOrbudgal
          SoOrbudgal commented
          Editing a comment
          OldManGrower your plant is still young I would LST and tie it down it's very easy and won't harm your plants at all ( unless you pull too hard ) anchor the back so to hold the base not to pull out of soil as you lean over the top of plant. Lots of pics of how to do this on site. Best one to start with and good luck, you can do it !

        #21
        I have used both cfl bulbs and t8 fluorescent tubes. The more cfl's used, the more heat put out, I do know this from using them. Now my t8 tubes are nice and cool, not very much heat output and I can keep them closer to the plants by 3-4 inches with no light burn. You can do any technique available, as you can see, I have topped, defoliated, and tied down my plants for achieving more bud points. This is my latest grow and am into week 9 of flower. My shop lights, I got them at Home Depot and hold 4 tubes apiece. I use 4 of these with a total of 16 tubes for light during vegging time. But as you can see, I do have a couple using cfl's as well as I didn't have enough 2700k tubes for the last light fixture.
        Last edited by NuggetMan; 05-10-2020, 03:32 PM.

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        • SoOrbudgal
          SoOrbudgal commented
          Editing a comment
          Good advice NuggetMan and this article is easy for all to follow.

        #22
        Originally posted by whitebeard View Post
        I’m curious as to the light footprint you would need for a single plant in the manifold configuration; I am contemplating a 30x30” tent with a 315 CMH. At 52w/sq.ft that should be plenty of light, but will the plant have enough room?

        Same question with regard to a fluxed plant: would it need a larger tent/box?
        the only guys I know of that actually use cfl's(200-300w) for flowering are guys who like flowery buds...lol
        of them its guys who have a very hi problem with molds, preffering not to have tight buds that mold can easy get into
        having flowery flowers(wide petals) means they can easy check and correct any forth coming mold issues

        I like my plants slightly stretched during winter for the same thing ..lol

        good luck

        Comment


          #23
          Hi all. Just joined the site and I’d like to start by saying thanks to Nebula for posting this it has been incredibly informative.

          My question is can/should this technique be started before or after transplanting? I’m currently germinating some bag seeds in solo cups so that I can determine their sex before transplanting into smart pots. I know this takes a few weeks before the males reveal themselves but I don’t want to start too late on the manifolding technique.

          Thanks for any advice you can provide.

          Comment


          • SoOrbudgal
            SoOrbudgal commented
            Editing a comment
            Hi welcome to growing. My preference is after transplant. So lots of folks who don't know the sex yet will transplant and just move forward with it till sex shows and this could take a longer period than you think. dalvis when you want to post questions about your grow just go ahead make a new post, call it anything you want make it yours

          #24
          LST and SCROG are both just methods to increase the surface area of the plant, and normalize the canopy so that the bud size is more consistent (instead of the unmodified "christmas tree" with one big bud in the middle and a bunch of popcorn around it).

          Something that will help is using a bright, very blue veg light - a good metal halide is the best. THis will keep the plant shorter and really stack on the nodes. More nodes means more buds, regardless of scrog or any other training. I notice about twice as many nodes in the same space with a metal halide lamp during veg as opposed to an HPS. Any new digital ballast will accept both HPS and MH bulbs, so the added expense is just an extra bulb that will last a while since you'll only use it for around 2-3 weeks to veg out the plant, then pop in the HPS for flower.

          Halide veg plus scrog is a good total package.

          FYI, 3x3x5 seems too small, assuming you are using HID lighting. You will need at least 6 feet of height because 1.5 feet will be taken up by the light, and the bottom 1.5 feet will be taken up by the pot and stem of the plant. You need the plants about 20" from the lights, so a 6-foot tall grow chamber gives about a 16" space for bud formation. A 5-foot tall chamber only gives you 6" - not enough space. I highly suggest just buying a 4'x4'x7' grow tent. They are very cheap nowadays and will save you a ton of time investment on trying to DIY a grow box.

          Put four plants in it, each given a 2'x2' area to grow. Build a pvc frame and tie netting over it for scrog, and train your plants into the screen. Put in an air-cooled 1000W HID fixture in the grow tent and use a Digilux metal halide for Veg for about 3-weeks, or until the screen is about 80% full. Then swap to a 1000W Hortilux super HPS and flower them puppies! Keep training them into the screen for the first week of flower, then leave them be (this will fill the screen to 100% coverage after the first week of flower). You want about a 2" mesh spacing for scrog - the best material to use is deer netting that can be purchased from a garden supply or farm store, but may be sold in a big roll. The goal is to end up with one bud in each 2"x2" hole in the screen. A 4'x4' area gives you 576 possible 2"x2" budsites. With good genetics, this setup, for an all-in investment of under $1000, will yield about two pounds, four times per year, or eight pounds per year, from four plants.

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