Brown thumb grow

[Gingerbeard]

Brwnthmb The idea is to let the bottom get air. If the plastic saucers are preventing air from getting to your bag either by direct contact or allowing the bag to sit in water for more than a couple hours, yes, get rid of the saucers.
This is a picture of what I use. These sit in saucers to catch runoff. Search your own brand if you are interested.

[Brwnthmb]

I like this idea.
Thanks!

[Bluey]

I sit my black plastic pots on some timber spacers that sit in saucer. I suck up the runoff, which I give once or twice a week with a syringe. My wet & dry vacuum is too noisy for my plants sensitive ears.

[Brwnthmb]

This plant is not officially part of my grow, but it is maturing under the same lights, and is in the same potting soil; ie same general growing environment. With all that being said, what is your opinion on harvesting?
Going from the advice provided, I’d say it’s too early, that is there are less than 80% of the pistils have turned brown. On the other hand, a lot of the leaves are pale so I am afraid that most photosynthesis is over.
I included the closeup hoping to learn about trichomes (and browning pistils) also.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

[Brwnthmb]

Yes I’m giving the plants bloom nutrients. Are burp jars covered in the drop down?

[Bluey]

Yes. Under drying & curing

[Brwnthmb]

Thanks

[Brwnthmb]

the bag is too heavy, and leaves are yellowing, as you can see. I watered it last on 11-5, 7 days ago, and added superthrive foliage pro nutrients. This was after repotting the plant (same day, just before watering). So the soil around the root ball is fresh. I also placed the bag on “pot risers” (two pieces of wood) for aeration.
Until I hear back, I’m punching holes in the root ball for aeration. Advice is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
edit: ph=5.43; 5.38; I measured the ph of the water that poured out of the bottom after 3000ml of tap water was poured through the soil, mostly at the stem.

[Bluey]

What pH are your inputs?

Likely that yellowing occurred as a result of transplant shock. Best not to transplant to avoid that.

Your roots need to re-establish themselves so less watering during that period. I don't use fabric pots as I grow in coco so no need.

[Brwnthmb]

Bluey- I messed up then, but I didn’t know another way to measure ph (other than pouring enough water through the bag to get a sample) but it did require 3 liters.
Do you think the low ph is causing (or helping cause) the yellowing?
I didn’t measure the input water ph, but in times past it has been around 7.

[Brwnthmb]

Is this yellowing of leaves normal in the late bloom phase?

[dirtymike]

That's been my experience so far. It thinks its Autumn.

[Brwnthmb]

Thank you!

[Gingerbeard]

Another fine article by Miss Nebula.
The Cannabis Autumn Color Effect (Get Colorful Leaves!) | Grow Weed Easy

[Gingerbeard]

Brwnthmb about your post 43.4. That is a good question and the answer is no, I have not checked pH in that order.
Someone might remember this moment a few years ago when someone corrected me when I was pH'ing water before adding nutes. I was not having issues but it made sense that the nutrient solution is what got pH'd because the nutrients could make a difference.
This is just my opinion but based on a little experience.
Your contrary results may be because of the water you use. Unless you are using the same water as the information you are reading, count on differences. Notice people say to adjust pH. They do not tell you how much pH up or down to use at a time. I know a drop of pH down in a gallon of water from the vending machine is almost too much so when I used VM water, I always pH'd 5 gallons at a time. Tap water takes many teaspoons.
In the end, the important number is what you finally pour onto your soil. If bloom nutes are dropping your pH to an acceptable level, go with it. If you begin to see an issue, you know where you might look for a solution.
Google a little about your nutrients. You may find they do, in fact, adjust pH.

[Brwnthmb]

I did, just now, correct the ph in my pitcher of tap water. Again it initially measured 7.38. 1/2ml of bloom nutrients dropped the ph to 5.76. I found that 0.1 ml of ph up brought the 750ml solution up to 6.5.
One challenge I had was measuring 0.1ml. I need a smaller syringe.
In case someone is interested I also found that I could fine tune the ph by adding water (if I had overshot the mark). For example I dropped the ph 0.3 by adding 250ml of water.

Edit: for reference 1ml/750ml=1tsp/1gallon. I find that it is much easier to work with metric units and besides my tools are graduated that way.

[Brwnthmb]

These two plants are at different stages of readiness, and the more mature one has many more trichomes. (The first picture is obviously the more mature bud.) Do buds acquire more trichomes as they mature or do the trichomes themselves only turn from clear to milky?
Here’s the second, labeled #1

[Brwnthmb]

That’s interesting.
The two plants shown are both OG Kush. The main difference is that the first spent it’s vegetative stage outside. A minor difference could be that the first plant is much smaller, and it is in an 8” clay pot. The other is in a 3 gallon fabric. [and of course the reason for the question. The first bud (with the most trichomes) has been maturing for about twice as long.]

[Bluey]

What I've noticed is stress can bring on trichomes early and stop or retard bud development. There comes a time in the flowers growth that buds slow and stop producing trichomes. When that is exactly probably varies a bit to a lot depending on lots of factors. Trichomes on Lower sugar leaves can start ambering up very early in flower. What it all means I don't know but I know when my buds are ready to go.

[Bluey]

Did you know there are 3 different types of trichomes on cannabis flowers? We really have little idea what 2 of them do or their function. We guess one of them is to deter pests. I'm just happy I have some good smoke.