Sick plant

[Brwnthmb]

Its a little leggy cause it's chasing the light. Move it closer. Looks like a case of overwatering and should have been moved to a bigger container, and it might need some food if there isn't any in the grow medium. Not too late to save it. Give more grow details, environment, temps, RH, nutrients, feeding schedule, grow medium, lights, distance to canopy, etc.

im actually responding to a different message but this one also mentions the plant food or nutrients, and that is my question. What do I need to add to the soil?
The soil that I am using is two types. The first is for seedlings and the other is a standard potting soil. Specifically Black Gold seedling mix and Vigoro all purpose potting mix. The second says that it “continuously feeds up to 9 months”. I was hoping that someone had figured this out for me already and made a potting soil that works for house plants and I could just use that. But if I need something added to it, by all means let me in on it. Thanks!
(The soil in the peat cups is the seedling mix.)

[Brwnthmb]

I’m not sure how to reply to who or maybe it’s that there are too many to reply to. But in general thanks for your help. I have another plant to show and the main difference is watering. The second difference is light spacing. The first plant was watered too much and the light was too close burning the leaves. Then it lost those leaves giving it a leggy appearance. The plants were leggy to begin with also, so your diagnosis was correct and helpful. Losing the bottom leaves that had burned just made the leggy worse.
The other difference is that this one started germinating 8-19, the other started 7-12.
The peat cup is also different and I think I just got lucky on this. I had to put in my own drainage holes, and they are smaller than the other cups. This may be why the entire cup is moist. Anyway it seems to look better.
Is this one ready to transplant? Someone (I dont have the name handy) said to transplant when the leaves were to the outside diameter of the cup, and to cut out the bottom or remove the cup entirely.
What size pot and do you recommend clay or plastic? I’ve been using 8” diameter clay, but I’m learning.

Edit (added); is this plant leggy or is it about right? I have the light’s legs on 2x4’s to compensate for the peat cup additional height, and it puts the light at 5-6”. Is that correct for a ferry morse t-5 grow light?

[Brwnthmb]

Impressive!

[Rwise]

Here is one of this years plants, my sunlight is 12 hours 48 minutes today and less tomorrow. Its called Berryfreak,

[Rwise]

I use a PC with firefox, and add this by clicking "Comment", to reply to the comment click the "Comment" above this comment.
Many photos will flower at 14/10s, My outdoor girls have been flowering for a while now, and I have some do this every year.
16/8 is good for now, with photos you can fix the issue/s and then flower them.

[Brwnthmb]

Are these autos or photos?
If autos how old are they?

They are photos; flowers when light is less than 12 hours.
and answering your other question; the current light cycle is 16 hours on, 8 hours of darkness.
for whatever reason I couldn’t answer your post that asked for the light schedule. There was not an option for quote or reply, only flag. (These were the options to choose from when I pressed the 3 dots in the bottom right of your message.)

[Brwnthmb]

Are these autos or photos?
If autos how old are they?

They are photos (flowering determined by the duration of light they receive).

[Rwise]

What is their current light cycle?

[Bluey]

I'd go coco medium next time with a good ph-ec meter like an Apera PC60. Don't forget the calibration and storage fluid

[Brwnthmb]

Are these autos or photos?
If autos how old are they?

They are photos (flowering determined by the duration of light they receive).

[Rwise]

Are these autos or photos?
If autos how old are they?

[Rwise]

Another negative on the peat pots, the PH of peat is ~3.4 so they are very acidic.
I also agree bottom watering is not ideal, and the heat mat without controls is hard to use, mine killed the seeds

[Rwise]

Yes even all the way to the first leaves/limbs.

[golfnrl]

Yes, bury the plant like was suggested. Won't be a problem. Unless you're growing in a living soil you will need to add some nutrients or your plants will die. I suppose bottom watering is OK but watering from the top is better IMHO. You want a little run off, but as long as the soil is not saturated you should be OK. I use peat pots, they're easy to use. You will need to cut out the bottom of the peat pot when you transplant. Or simply remove the plant from the pot. I've done it both ways. I prefer cutting away the pot when transplanting. Transplant your seedling when the serrated leaves reach the side of the container. You should be able to see roots at the drain holes in your pot. Follow your light manufacturer's recommendations for how high and how intense to set your light. 2" or 5-6" is too close. Not uncommon for an LED to be 20-24" from the canopy.

[homegrown]

I think your main problem from the start is the peat pots. They are almost impossible to water correctly. In your pic the bottom is soggy but the sides are still dry(roots dont like to stay soggy without air). And they dry out very fast. Even if you do get them to grow the peat pot doesn't deteriorate or break down in soil so the roots stay bound in that pot...you have to shred the bottom of the pot before you transplant it. Next, the heat mat..does it have a temperature control? If not, its probably too hot, i have one without temp control so i use a 1/4 inch piece of foam between the mat and plants. Not sure about your lights but the stretch would indicate the lights are too far away or too weak.