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    Hmmm. Strawberry Cough is my favorite !!! Most potent strain I have ever smoked. EVER !!!
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      Sorry been really busy and my grow tools and works tools I do not bring them in unless I have days off, might forget them in the morning...

      So I have wired the ac side of half of the led drivers and realized they needed to be grounded. The bottom of the led are epoxy and the mounting tabs are plastic, so there is no Fu"" way to use the included ground wire, it is redundant! One has to either run a ground wire across the led drivers and secure it with aluminum tape or better use a 1/16 angel aluminum and press the row down and with end bolts. Then you can ground the led aluminum frame to the securing angle. I choose the cheap way with the wire but the better way would be to press the row of drivers down with angle / aluminum tightly that way you would have more contact.

      Have to be really grounded because you do not want a row or two of 120 v led driver UN-grounded on the light frame. God forbid you stumble and reach up to grab hold/ with an unknown issue. Electricity can sit there and float for ever but if you provide a ground to a problem you will never forget it...

      Hot glued thick plastic across the completed 120v connecting terminal strips for the same reason..

      Out of heat shrink and solider so I have to hold off until I can gather some supplies.

      On another thought I worked at a food place (catering) facility to day and they had some GREAT Insulated Mylar Rolls, about 3ft by maybe 100ft DAM had to constrain about asking for some.... must purchase from hydro store... Just saying... but that would of been the Fix....


        FYI for you guys planning a build. My wife the CA did a cost sheet for my project and we are up to $700.00+ . Wow the big ticket items were the Veros, the heat sinks both were over $100.00. The Aluminum frame for the fixture was $40.00 and all the small stuff, tarps, tape, moving blankets, staples , wire, heat shrink,solider, CFL sockets, 18/2 and 16/3 and that does not include the needed mylar, or 14 /3 for a new circuit. GGCI might have, but it was pulled in the kitchen because of issue. I think the cheaper GFCI trip with old kitchen equipment because the neutral and ground are bonded together r better ones do not trip. Hoping I can use the kitchen reject.

        So far the total is around $700.00 and all I can say is the small stuff adds up QUICK. I might do a build post to complement Nebulas recent post as it would drive home her point about building a grow tent ect.

        Moving on I wired the other half of hte led drivers A/C side and put the dc whips on for the led's. The Vero 18 have a stab in connector and they SUCK!! I have not found the right size of wire to use. I have tried 18 gauge stranded, "To Small, !^ gauge stranded to big but i stripped it at 18 and tinned it, best so far but not comfortable with the fit, tried coax as it is solid and must be around 16 still to small. One would think they would use a industry standard wire gauge to fit the stab in.. Damn E"" s.
        I will post what works. I have some conductive epoxy but that s" is really $. Bought it for the broken defraust on the rear windshield of of the wrangler. It worked but ....

        Dam thinking I need to finace this grow with promisarry notes to family ect.... ha ha bad idea...jus saying...


          Originally posted by SovietStoner View Post
          Hmmm. Strawberry Cough is my favorite !!! Most potent strain I have ever smoked. EVER !!!
          so how do you think s.b .c and c.c kush wold turn out in a bean?? Both are in the smae THC range...really they are 18 - 22 high


            The tent is 99% finished, still need to have wife sew mylar to the seedling side door. Also need to purchase some dual bulb adapters so I can use two 23w cfls. The 4 cfl sockets are wired, so they are ready for the 8 cfl bulbs.

            Led fixture is complete, however I ran in to a Show Stopper when I checked the circuit with a Amp meter. I was expecting to see around 5 or 6 amps on the circuit.

            with the led and cpu fan each one should be about .5 A that is the AC side. there are 9 led / fans, 4" in exhaust fan, 1 cabinet fan to bring fresh air in. The bad news was the circuit only had 1.8A (way, way) to low. So I started with my spare led driver and vero 18 and I could or still could cry! The e-bay 50W 1500ma led driver is only putting out 27.67 v dc @ .55 A (see the problem) that is P= V*A , P=Watts 15.21 Watts - There is no way I can do any dam thing with this. I sent the seller a message and the only conclusion I have is who ever is manufacturing his led drivers Flat our miss labeled the ones I have because they should be 20 W led drivers.

            So Close but now about $1000 later we have a major problem since they are all wired and mounted..

            What have I learned so far...First of All if it is a small grow area (Listen to Nebula Sept article) Buy a Freaking tent ! Next thing if your building your own LED fixture. I would still order seeds first, that way you have $100 on the line to get on with it.. I would build the frame and have Heat Sink, Fans and Capton tape and all the other ready to go. You could order the leds also. The last thing I would order is the led driver especially if it is off e-bay. That way you are ready to assemble and if there is a problem with the driver you can address it. My drivers were purchased months ago and they have been sitting until a few days ago.

            Sooner or later I put some pics and cost together for this project. As for the led drivers not sure I want to reorder 9# led drivers might just go with constant voltage and implement some resistors and fuses on each led. Probably way cheaper.

            That could of been a Train Wreck trying to grow under 9# 15 W led while thinking they are 9# 50W leds. Wonder if that would of been caught??


              Ok I will work on some pics so you guys stop thinking this is B.S thread...




                  Frame skinning. The actual size is about 38" x 48" x 6 ft which includes about a 10" by 6 ft CFL area. Only using one shelf for this area very small but should be ok. Some rigid support for hanging stuff.


                    The max light height with the exhaust is about 62 inches so this should put the max height just under 4 ft.


                      The cabinet fan is rated at 77 CFM this about 20 CFM over the ehaust CFM so it should be ok. The light box was painted black with smart pot black fabric glued to some of the light facing walls. Very effective as no light gets out.


                      • changeofpace2014
                        changeofpace2014 commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Had to really look for this pic..It has been a while and needed a refresher on how I went about this active intake...O the exhaust fan is 200 CFM and the replacement case fans (because I seemed to have lost the old one in the move) will be about 44 CFM. Might do a push / pull this time around.

                      My wife did a nice job of sewing mylar on the doors and hemming the edges of the moving blankets. Not to mention she was quite busy with the smart pots to. Just be sure if you sew your own to use the woven fabric, or at least from what I read because it breaths better then the plastic coated material.

                      Mylar is stapled, taped with duct tape and foil tape. Actually there is heavy black trash bags and a white tarp under the mylar. The white tarp turned out to be some what translucent so the mylar was added.


                        The middle heat sink is missing a fan.. Mistake wiring it up and I had to purchase another heat sink assembly for the fan. There is no reverse diode protection with these Alpine fans, meaning if one connects them with reverse polarity they are not forgiving.

                        The finished fixture, well keep reading because a major issue developed with the light.

                        Some what working led fixture if you want to grow some chives ect.


                          The carbon scrubber design was borrowed from (rollitup), it uses a 4" breather tube in side a 6 " carbon filled tube. Note: the online how to said they used 2# 23 ounce activated carbon containers.. Thins one took 5# 3 lb bags to fill. Ya it is heavy around 17 lbs but the exhaust is still strong at end of a 12 ft run. It will only get heavier as time goes on..


                            small shelf for cfl, about 10" x 10" x 36"


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