Hydroponic Growers Group!

[Cab1080]

Here are some photos. When looking through the scope pretty much all trichomes still mostly clear. Will heat and LED light effect Trichomes. I did a poor job at keeping track of this but I believe I am at about day 46 of flowering on the tangerine Dream, which has estimate of 55-65 day harvest.

Edit: Second Picture is actually critical purple not tangerine dream. Those trichomes also clear, although pretty haired up.

[Cab1080]

Nice Thread. I got some questions coming. I am trying to get some good pics off my plants. I grow in hydro under LED. This thread has some pics of my setup and plants. I am nearing harvest and don't want to jump the gun. 1st time grower. Just trying get some white light setup so its not all purply.

[wheatgrass]

Wow! What a lot of info. Well I am just beginning in hydro. My first attempt. I have a cabinet with a cloner down below and flower up top. It is DWC. How do I transplant from the 2 inch net cups down below to the 3.75 inch net cups up top? The roots will be very long. Will they get damaged or just grow back through the pellets and the cup? Thanks fellas.

[IslandColas]

I thought about posting this on one of my journals but this is probably as good a place as any to post it. Campesino and I have talked about this before and IslandColas has eluded to it in at least one post; As far as growing in hydroponics is concerned, I am a bit unorthodox to say the least, my techniques work for me because I have an understanding of the conditions I have created in my reservoir, it is certainly not the easy, efficient , or recommended way, for a grower that is new to idea of sustaining life in an aqueous environment.

My preference for warmer water comes from my love of aquatics and my experience over the last decade managing a 175 gallon aquarium. I have run it as a fresh water tank as well well as a salt water tank, unfortunately shortly after I started growing I had to shut down the aquarium do to excess power consumption. I am currently saving money to upgrade my household electrical so I can run both simultaneously, but for now my tank sits empty. Anyways.....It should come as no surprise that I treat my reservoirs the same way I treated my aquarium.....I only do partial water changes on a weekly basis........I do this in part because I use beneficial bacteria in my reservoir and IMO and experience, a complete water change would only serve to rob my system of the colony I am trying to build. I build my colony using HydroGuard, Orca, and SLF-100. Most are familiar with HydroGuard from the GWE tutorials. Orca is the hydroponic equivalent of Great White, produced by the same manufacturer. SLF-100 is an enzyme based root innoculent that serves to clear away dead and decaying root particles that would normally attract competing bacterial strains. I normally plan for 2 full reservoir changes in any given grow...the 1st is after transition, so I can reset the nutrient ratios in the reservoir for flowering....the 2nd is when I finalize the leaching period. I say finalize because I lower my EC by .2, at what I consider to be milestone stages during flower, until I reach an EC of 1.0 or 500 PPM, at which point I dip the roots in a solution of 22 mls. of FloraKleen per 5 gallons of water for 10 minutes and then return them to a reservoir of tap water, HydroGuard, and Orca. The final period of leaching lasts for 7 days and I add my beneficial's during this period because I need a healthy root system to assist in water uptake right up until I cut the plants down.

It is my sincere hope that I can contribute to this community in a way that benefits others in the same way that it has benefited me, while understanding that I do things in an unconventional way that may not be easily replicated by others.

Absolutely love having you as part of the community Obi-Wan your knowledge is irreplaceable

[Baphomatt]

Thank you so much! Lots more to research!!!

(I freakin' love it.)

[Campesino]

Thanks for sharing! I love the insight into your practices and the theory behind it. Really interesting style - more power to you Obi-Wan !

[Rangi]

Absolutely fabulous. Thanks so much for sharing this. I am always intrigued by “differences”; in part, because they challenge me to develop a more sophisticated understanding of the important concepts involved.

[Obi-Wan]

I thought about posting this on one of my journals but this is probably as good a place as any to post it. Campesino and I have talked about this before and IslandColas has eluded to it in at least one post; As far as growing in hydroponics is concerned, I am a bit unorthodox to say the least, my techniques work for me because I have an understanding of the conditions I have created in my reservoir, it is certainly not the easy, efficient , or recommended way, for a grower that is new to idea of sustaining life in an aqueous environment.

My preference for warmer water comes from my love of aquatics and my experience over the last decade managing a 175 gallon aquarium. I have run it as a fresh water tank as well well as a salt water tank, unfortunately shortly after I started growing I had to shut down the aquarium do to excess power consumption. I am currently saving money to upgrade my household electrical so I can run both simultaneously, but for now my tank sits empty. Anyways.....It should come as no surprise that I treat my reservoirs the same way I treated my aquarium.....I only do partial water changes on a weekly basis........I do this in part because I use beneficial bacteria in my reservoir and IMO and experience, a complete water change would only serve to rob my system of the colony I am trying to build. I build my colony using HydroGuard, Orca, and SLF-100. Most are familiar with HydroGuard from the GWE tutorials. Orca is the hydroponic equivalent of Great White, produced by the same manufacturer. SLF-100 is an enzyme based root innoculent that serves to clear away dead and decaying root particles that would normally attract competing bacterial strains. I normally plan for 2 full reservoir changes in any given grow...the 1st is after transition, so I can reset the nutrient ratios in the reservoir for flowering....the 2nd is when I finalize the leaching period. I say finalize because I lower my EC by .2, at what I consider to be milestone stages during flower, until I reach an EC of 1.0 or 500 PPM, at which point I dip the roots in a solution of 22 mls. of FloraKleen per 5 gallons of water for 10 minutes and then return them to a reservoir of tap water, HydroGuard, and Orca. The final period of leaching lasts for 7 days and I add my beneficial's during this period because I need a healthy root system to assist in water uptake right up until I cut the plants down.

It is my sincere hope that I can contribute to this community in a way that benefits others in the same way that it has benefited me, while understanding that I do things in an unconventional way that may not be easily replicated by others.

[IslandColas]

I'd pinch it off. are these 3 weeks old?

how often does that tray flood?

They’re almost 4 weeks from cutting. And they’re fed in the flower tent every two hours currently.

they've grown a couple inches in the first couple days of flower.

[Sonnyhad]

I'm using the whole cultured solutions line, UC Roots and all, trying to do a sterile system. The whole learning curve is a B I T C H ! I changed my timer and when the lights came back on, it popped a gfi breaker that I did not know was there! No bubbles for 14 hours! This was Friday. I would have never put those on a GFI .I don't know if I can recover from this one, so I'm about to start some clones and start again. While trying to revive these and chalk it up to a learning experience!

[Campesino]

Yeah, I have been thinking about airdomes for a while. I was excited when I saw you using them and you provided more info than I could have hoped for - and pictures! Thanks

[Rangi]

You're most welcome! Trust me, I'll be asking many more questions here than I'll ever be able to answer! But when I can help, I will

[Campesino]

Awesome! Exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you

[Rangi]

Those bags are pretty cool! And what a price point!

I don't see why you couldn't leave the air running 24/7, actually. With the caveat that the air being injected is never too cold (e.g., during lights out, depending on your setup). I use a fairly airy medium blend ... coco:vermiculite: perlite = 50:25:25. So I think the dome promotes maintaining good aeration through the mix, not just providing some aeration/oxygenation from any direct water contact.

AutoPot actually says only run the AirDome during lights on, but my sense is that the R&D is done in the UK with many customers - growing various crops - operating in cooler night conditions where this could be a problem). I know two other growers running AirDomes 24/7 - like I do - with no ill effects.

Recently had some correspondence with AutoPotUSA re minimum/optimal air flow for the domes (it's not stated in their literature anywhere). Received this response:

"We recommend 15gal of air per dome per hour. If you have 8 pots you will need a 120gal per hour pump. Place the root control sheet into the base of the pot, sit the dome on top and then cover the dome with clay pebbles/perlite/GrowStones until just the last 1/2" of the dome is showing. Then ensure that you’re using a well aerated substrate to allow the air to distribute evenly through the pot. Mixing soil or coco with 50% pebbles/perlite/GrowStones works well."

[Campesino]

Great pics! Thanks
Roots certainly seem to enjoy them!

Do you agree about timing (just during and maybe a minute after fertigations)? I am able to do 4x daily now in large pots in late flower. I am thinking that with these I would be able to be at 6x maybe 7x ...Also thinking about smaller taller pots... Perhaps these https://247garden.com/247p-fp-5d.html