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How to train plants for bigger yields without any "techniques"

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  • How to train plants for bigger yields without any "techniques"

    The main idea behind any plant training technique is to grow many buds in a flat row like this.



    Growing plants in this shape is the best way to maximize yields with indoor grow lights because cannabis plants tend to grow the biggest buds at the top of the plant. The plant also focuses on the buds that get the most light and fresh air, making it favor those top buds even more.

    One way to achieve this shape is to grow many small plants like in the picture above. This is sometimes known as Sea of Green technique, which is just a fancy way of saying grow a bunch of small plants instead of a few big ones. However, these days a lot of growers have plant limits which prevent them from using this technique

    The other common way to achieve a sea of buds is you need to prepare or "train" your plants to grow flat when they're young in the vegetative stage. This lets you get the same yield results with just a few plants.



    Training is how you get your plants to make multiple thick long buds



    There's tons of different ways to achieve this general flat, table-top shape in the vegetative stage. At it's most basic, you can just watch out for the tallest stems and bend them over as they get taller than the others. This is often referred to as LST or "Low Stress Training" because it doesn't stress the plant much if at all.

    If some stems are getting taller than the others....



    Then bend over the tallest ones and tie them down with something like plant twisty tie. This makes it so that each of the colas are about the same height as each other. If you do this throughout the vegetative stage, it causes the the plant to naturally grow a flat, table-top shape.



    Gently bend branches that are taller than the rest. Don't bend a branch if it's stiff because you may break a stem (wrap it up quickly with duct tape if you ever accidentally snap a stem!). Try to bend branches where they are new, soft and flexible. Older stems get woody and difficult if not impossible to bend! It helps a lot to bend as the plant grows, instead of try to do everything at the end.

    To bend a really stiff stem: Pinch the stem tightly between your fingers(not nails), then squeeze firmly while wiggling the stem gently back and forth where you want it to bend. Continue until you feel/hear crunching from the inside of the stem. You're trying to break up all the structure inside of the stem without hurting the "skin." Don't bend if it's still stiff or it will break the skin! This may take several seconds of pinching and gentle wiggling back and forth before the stem gets flexible.At that point slowly bend the stem at the new joint you've made, and secure in place.



    I like plant twisty tie for securing stems. It's made for the job! You can make a little "hook" and hook your stem wherever you want



    When growing in a container I recommend attaching your twisty tie directly to the lip of the pot because you'll be able to pick up and move the plant freely.



    From this point on, you're just bending over tall stems and letting your plant grow and gain in size.

    As your plant is growing, it's important to be aware of how tall it's getting. You only have so much space to grow under your grow light, and you need to start flowering by the time your plant has halfway filled up your space!

    Flowering Stage: Start making buds!

    When your plant is about half the final desired height, it's time to get your plants to start making buds (start flowering). This is because your plant will about double in height after the switch to the flowering stage.

    You get a cannabis plant to start flowering by giving it a 12/12 light schedule. In other words you give the plant 12 hours of light a day and 12 hours of complete and uninterrupted darkness each day. This is usually done by putting plants on a timer. The 12/12 schedule will cause the plant to start making buds in 1-2 weeks. You need to maintain the 12/12 schedule until harvest time.

    Immediately before the switch to flowering, make sure to "lollipop" the plant, which means to remove leaves from the lowest parts of the plant that are in shadow. This will help the plant focus on the top buds, and not waste energy on parts of the plant that are not getting light.



    Your plant should fill up your tent under the light, without any "holes" in the canopy. This ensures you get as many bud sites at the top of the plant as possible. This wide, flat tabletop shape is what you were working towards with all your training.



    If you followed all these steps in the vegetative stage, the plant will automatically start growing with tons of buds just a few weeks later.



    Resulting in something like this!




    Read the complete article on no-technique plant training and let us know what you think!

  • #2
    I use a 600W HPS for flower and I have a light mover. I am growing in a 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 room. What shape and size of the footprint would you recommend? I am planning 4 White Widow but that can change.
    2 auto grows in M3 Organic just add water mix
    1 photo grow in Promix with General Organics go Box
    1 photo White Widow 600w, coco, GH-Best grow yet
    http://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/...-after-harvest

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Flockshot View Post
      I use a 600W HPS for flower and I have a light mover. I am growing in a 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 room. What shape and size of the footprint would you recommend? I am planning 4 White Widow but that can change.
      It depends on your light mover. Ideally, you want to make sure all the space under the grow light is filled with a plant. Any "hole" in the canopy is going to create a space where light is getting wasted. I'm not sure which one you have, but our 600W on a 3' light mover seemed to cover a space of about 4'x6' or 4'x7' (a 600W normally covers 4'x4' and adding 3 feet in one direction brings it closer to 4'x7'). So if it were me I'd fill out a space at least that big with plants. 4 or 6 plants could be a good choice!

      Comment


      • #4
        I want to use this method in my grow but in conjunction with topping the plants. How long should I wait to start topping with this method? Until the 6th set of leaves have grown in?

        Comment


        • NebulaHaze
          NebulaHaze commented
          Editing a comment
          When there's 4-6 nodes is a good time to top your plant! The younger the plant is, the more likely you are to shock it, so wait until the plant is healthy and growing fast for the best results If you're going to do something like manifolding you might wait until it's grown 6 nodes first so you build a strong base, but otherwise 4-5 is great!

      • #5
        Nebula you have me totally hooked on the manifold technique and I find that the simplest way to grow nice big solid colas... Awesome for those of you who have never tried it... go on the site and check it out. Manifolding...!

        Comment


        • #6
          Originally posted by 420n808 View Post
          Nebula you have me totally hooked on the manifold technique and I find that the simplest way to grow nice big solid colas... Awesome for those of you who have never tried it... go on the site and check it out. Manifolding...!
          After reading Neb's tutorial on building a manifold, I knew I'd have to try it. The pictures of her yield are very convincing. I'm glad I saw your post endorsing this practice.

          Comment


          • #7
            My first ever training, Nebula's manifolding. It seems extremely easy to follow (if I'm doing it right). I like the shape this method creates.

            manifolding, supercroping and defoliation are what im going to do.

            Thank you Nebula


            Comment


            • #8
              My White Widow manifold.

              Comment

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