SOIL Transplant shock!

[Wristo]

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[NebulaHaze]

I'm sorry you're having trouble uploading pictures to the forum We're getting that fixed right now. If possible, I would love if you could send a copy of one of the images to brokenpictures@growweedeasy.com so I can report it. Some growers have found a temporary workaround by resaving the file and uploading it, or taking a screenshot of the picture and uploading it. Some growers also upload to http://imgur.com and then post a link from here. I'm sorry for the inconvenience.

All that being said, it's normal for a plant to look a little droopy after a transplant if the roots got disturbed. If possible, it's best to try to leave the root ball completely undisturbed, and just dig a hole in the new pot and place the whole rootball in one big piece. If the roots don't get moved around it's less likely to be stressed. Then just give it a good watering.

However, transplant shock usually only lasts a few days. It should perk up soon with some time and TLC

[Vapo69]

Totally agree with nebula dude........Little tip is to use superthrive when you transplant, it's a natural vitamin solution with sea kelp, it's also supposed to reduce transplant shock to plants, I used it a couple of times and plants seemed ok😀😀 happy growing dude😀😀


p.s........superthrive is available from most hydro stores.

[PigSquishy]

As Vapo69 pointed out I too have Super Thrive as a part of my plant care for plants in SOIL (Not Hydro), but the last feeding I give the plants before a transplant I give it the Super Thrive and then again after the transplant, following the Super Thrive directions which state "use it by itself without any other fertilizers for 24-hours". The Vitamin B is what helps the plants turn on their immune system, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do some learning on Vitamin B and Kelp, when it comes to plants... as well as do some more learning on transplanting. Years ago I learned some simple tricks to transplanting hard to transplant things, such as if I was going to dig out a big bush and want to move it from one house to the next, either I can do it on a sunny day using a Transplant Fertilizer Formula (sold as such) or I would simply wait until a cloudy day, preferably a rainy day and then just dig it up move it to its new location and the next day you wouldn't even know I transplanted it. However I can do that because when I transplant I know about the different roots and I make sure I disturb them as little as possible, including but not limited to bruising the roots by not setting it down hard, etc...

Typically the three common issues I see with transplants is people first tear roots and think they don't really matter all that much because "they will grow back", but the short of it is roots like the rest of the plant can be injured and it takes time to heal, the roots are the last part of the plant to get any energy and the last to grow despite what people think. Harming the root system can have a long lasting effect and its actually amazing to learn about, because it really makes a big difference in how your plant will respond throughout its lifetime with a strong root system. The second is people will transplant and then try to feed the plant with normal fertilizers again after the transplant, to compare it would be like thinking a sick person would still want to go out to the buffet to eat and eat like normal. The third is that I see people be rough, drop, bang, etc... the plant outside of the pot and bruise the roots which like a bruise on you can take 1-2 weeks to heal before the plant responds again.

In any case the best course of action is to tenderly take care of the plant, by maybe moving it to the outside of your plants under the lighting, so it's not directly under the lighting with other plants at the edges of the lighting who are getting a little less light. If the roots are hurt they can't uptake nutrients and water as normal, thus they can't take the normal lighting. Transplant solutions really help, Super Thrive is a long time favorite of many people, but in hydro it will make green slime on everything has been my experience.The last thing is to not stress your plant any more than it has been already, and give it as much time as it appears to need to recover. If you try to rush its recovery you won't be as happy with its end results for how it heals has again also been my experience.

Oh and if you know about foliar feeding, you might consider using a little Kelp in the foliar feed water with some Yucca Root, as it will help to feed the plant and pull it out of shock sooner, or at least help take some of the stress off the injured root system. Yucca Roots "makes water wetter" and helps increase branching of the roots (when they are watered) and increases branching when foliar sprayed. I use that combination all the time whether plants are sick, in shock or not and its made a huge difference in pulling plants out of stress and even near death.

[Vapo69]

Woohooo.........good answer dude...loads of good info and food for thought😀😀😀

[Wristo]

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[PigSquishy]

You are very welcome, if you are interested in learning far more than I shared on this subject I can give you some names of people and things to look up to learn a lot more about this stuff. "Harley Smith" on YouTube is amazing and is the spokesperson for NPK Industries which makes the RAW Solubles line of nutrients, in short they sell you Nitrogen, Potassium, etc... so when you find you have a nutrient deficiency in one you can take the steps to correct what you are lacking by mixing up a little of the powder of that to water and feeding it to your plant. I've been into gardens all my life and I know a lot, a friend asked me to check out this video "Full Plant Nutrient Rundown by Harley Smith (Part 1 of 2) - YouTube" and at first I thought OMG a salesman in a lab coat. In the two videos which last something like 90-mins in all I was glued to the screen with a notebook in hand taking notes, I learned so much in 90-minutes I went out and bought just three of the products I felt I needed. I started watering my plants with what I thought they needed, and later that week my neighbors came to ask what I did to my trees, shrubs, bushes, and gardens, it took two weeks for me to get a parade of people coming to check it out.

In one year's time I got four years of growth out of my trees and such, my vegetables and such got bigger, plumper, and actually tasted better than ever before, so I really begin to listen to Harley's lectures at NPK University for free, that is where those YouTube lectures of his come from he does them on the webcam there and at the end of the class you can type him questions and he'll answer them off camera for you, then the video finds it way onto YouTube. He has written articles in Maximum Yield Magazine and I forget the other magazine but I've searched out all of his work to read I really love the way he makes everything about "plants" and makes it 100% simple for everyone to understand.

Another one which really helped me was "Dr. Carl Whitcomb, Improving Plant Root Systems - YouTube" he really did a lot with coming up and patenting some new flowers and such, and he really opened the doors for plant root systems being much more understood and took the myths out of it and made it about science. Very straightforward, easy to understand and he loves to back it up with proof in photos, not in some numbers you get lost trying to understand.

Ed Rosenthal, has done more single handedly for the cannabis grower than anyone else ever has, seriously check out his name and you will get an idea of how much he's really done to help the cannabis grower to the legalization of the cannabis industry. The best two books he wrote I recommend are "Marijuana Pest and Disease Control: How to Protect Your Plants and Win Back Your Garden" because he really details the pests, and everything about them so you can fight them and win every time. I've got lots of garden pest books of "if you have this, do this" but that is the only one I have that teaches you about the pest from its offspring to eating habits, etc... and tells you what to use to battle them so you get a better understanding of what you are battling to win the war against them. The other is "Marijuana Grower's Handbook: Your Complete Guide for Medical and Personal Marijuana Cultivation" and I forget how many copies its sold, but its the best cannabis book I've ever read to teach you everything about growing and explain stuff that I still turn back to look up even today.

Beyond that I'd tell you to check out the link in the signature to my posts, the above combined with what you can learn on this site right here and from the weekly Newsletter from here too, is honestly the recipe to turn anyone into an expert in a short time. There was a time when I used to be on a site which charged people lots of money to learn from "Expert Growers" and I can tell you in all honestly, for the price of two books, and the Grower's Handbook can even be found online in PDF for 100% free, so really for the price of one book and some time spent reading and listening to videos...

The company name "Surna" aka Hydro Innovations, aka Chill King... check out their company website then at the top go to "Blog" and they write about the cannabis commercial industry, in one article they pointed out 10,000 plants used to be a lot, now 100,000 plants is more the average. They write about things for those big people, but it still applies to us if we let it. They discuss the latest cannabis laws, what is going on with different issues with cannabis like the mold in California, and other very important things which even apply to the grow room.

Figured if you felt my helping you was gold to you, I'd put some effort into really helping you by giving you a jump start on learning, these are the best resources I've ever found to date and everyone of them has done a lot for me to get to the point I am at today. May they benefit you as they have me, because whether we are talking cannabis or "plants" it's more or less all the same in its "fruit" production.