First off I'm sorry I've been gone so long. Recent things have come to my attention pertaining to legality issues on some of our hobbies here in my state. But rest assured I still lurk in the shadows admiring how big this forum is getting. Anyway..
During our first go with DWC I recognized some serious problems with the single bucket system. This specific problem was that every time you need to do a reservoir change you would have to move the entire plant out of the bucket. This becomes a challenge in flower when you're moving a 4 foot tall bush in and out of a tent. Not very practical.
there are a few methods out there to solve this problem, but none of them seemed like they would work for me. This method let's you modify a bucket that will add a 3/4" fitting that leads to a shutoff valve to drain the water. The valve is connected to a garden hose and the garden hose to a water transfer pump. Complete list:
3/4" x 3/4" Threaded Adapter Union Fitting
(2) 3/4" PVC Sch 80 Nipple (length is personal preference)
3/4" PVC Sch 40 Female In-Line Ball Valve
3/4" PVC Drip Irrigation Male Adapter (swivel attachment)
Thread tape
Tube of water sealant
The list above is for a single bucket. The parts listed (not including tape and sealant) cost just under $20 American at Lowe's. The list calls for a PVC Male Adapter but in the picture it is brass. This is only because they were completely out of the PVC versions. No biggie, but I paid 6 bucks a pop for the brass as opposed to $1 for PVC. Either will work.
Use a 1-1/2" spade bit and carefully drill into the bucket, leaving enough height on the inside for the fitting. Clean the hole carefully with a dull blade of shavings and assemble the Union Fitting to see if it fits. You will most likely have to screw the fitting in as opposed to pushing it in. Take the fitting back out and apply a bead of water proof sealant to the rubber piece that will set against the bucket wall. The bead should be placed near the threads. Reassemble the fitting and wipe off the excess sealant that comes out after tightening. This is all you can do at this point. Most sealants require at least 24 hours to set.
The next day the rest can be assembled. Wait until you complete the spout before attaching it to the bucket fitting. Use 3 or 4 wraps of tape on the threads before inserting into the next piece. This will keep the threads from leaking. The first piece is one of the lengths of nipple (I chose 6" and 3" but any length will work). This nipple is inserted into the Ball Valve, followed by the second nipple. Finally, attach the Male Adapter. This is where you attach your garden hose/transfer pump.
Test your assembled bucket. I was able to complete my buckets leak free. As long as there was enough sealant and tape used, you should be set. The last pic is a perfect example of how not to drill. Don't push very hard when pushing the bit through the bucket. My first bucket ended up scrap, but I was able to remount to water level tube so it wasn't a complete loss.
Now you have a system that allows res changes with never having to touch the bucket itself. Happy Growing!
During our first go with DWC I recognized some serious problems with the single bucket system. This specific problem was that every time you need to do a reservoir change you would have to move the entire plant out of the bucket. This becomes a challenge in flower when you're moving a 4 foot tall bush in and out of a tent. Not very practical.
there are a few methods out there to solve this problem, but none of them seemed like they would work for me. This method let's you modify a bucket that will add a 3/4" fitting that leads to a shutoff valve to drain the water. The valve is connected to a garden hose and the garden hose to a water transfer pump. Complete list:
3/4" x 3/4" Threaded Adapter Union Fitting
(2) 3/4" PVC Sch 80 Nipple (length is personal preference)
3/4" PVC Sch 40 Female In-Line Ball Valve
3/4" PVC Drip Irrigation Male Adapter (swivel attachment)
Thread tape
Tube of water sealant
The list above is for a single bucket. The parts listed (not including tape and sealant) cost just under $20 American at Lowe's. The list calls for a PVC Male Adapter but in the picture it is brass. This is only because they were completely out of the PVC versions. No biggie, but I paid 6 bucks a pop for the brass as opposed to $1 for PVC. Either will work.
Use a 1-1/2" spade bit and carefully drill into the bucket, leaving enough height on the inside for the fitting. Clean the hole carefully with a dull blade of shavings and assemble the Union Fitting to see if it fits. You will most likely have to screw the fitting in as opposed to pushing it in. Take the fitting back out and apply a bead of water proof sealant to the rubber piece that will set against the bucket wall. The bead should be placed near the threads. Reassemble the fitting and wipe off the excess sealant that comes out after tightening. This is all you can do at this point. Most sealants require at least 24 hours to set.
The next day the rest can be assembled. Wait until you complete the spout before attaching it to the bucket fitting. Use 3 or 4 wraps of tape on the threads before inserting into the next piece. This will keep the threads from leaking. The first piece is one of the lengths of nipple (I chose 6" and 3" but any length will work). This nipple is inserted into the Ball Valve, followed by the second nipple. Finally, attach the Male Adapter. This is where you attach your garden hose/transfer pump.
Test your assembled bucket. I was able to complete my buckets leak free. As long as there was enough sealant and tape used, you should be set. The last pic is a perfect example of how not to drill. Don't push very hard when pushing the bit through the bucket. My first bucket ended up scrap, but I was able to remount to water level tube so it wasn't a complete loss.
Now you have a system that allows res changes with never having to touch the bucket itself. Happy Growing!
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